240ZGL

Thank's Paul

Those megs were part of the Clifford/Dastun setup and the pipes are 1 3/4". I have a new set of the megs and have duplicated the muffler section and the center section. The fit is perfect if you can find them.

The only reason to use a kit like that is to make a non legal car legal, whether it is a stolen car or a fraud. I just saw a red 77 on Ebay that has 72 paper on it. It is clearly not a 72 and the guy, when called on it, basically says oh well. Here in Calif. you get a well deserved jail sentence for that kind of crap.

I had Mulholland springs back in the late 70's on a 72, they were black. As for the looks, those are not 240z springs. I just did a set of springs on my 240Z and the springs should be the same diameter all the way up. Those won't sit on the spring seats. They also look thicker than most Z springs. They almost look like springs for a truck.

From the start, I wanted the OEM covers. They finish off the nose of the car, they look like they belong there. The rings add just the right amount chrome. The lenses connect the lines of the body. They don't look like there an add on, they just look right.

Mulhollands were black. I'm not sure what those fit but it's not a 240. The 240 springs are the same diameter all the way up.

I got the repros of Ebay, the guy said he gets them from Japan. The lenses will always fit because they sit on top of the bucket under the rings, and they have a little flex in them.

Well that's just it, I have a set of the reproduction rings and they don't fit. There too short at the bottom. The ones I have on the car are a set of originals I bought without lenses. I got lucky that I had them. The repros are going on the shelf.

You have to know what your looking at. If you don't know then put in the work and find out what your looking at. I spent 2 years looking at Z cars before I found just the right one. NO and I repeat NO serious rust on the body or frame, rust cost major money and time . Does it have a paper history ? No impacts, no Micky or Minny mouse add on's, especially in the wiring. Missing parts, spray can paint jobs and Micky mouse work means the car has been maintained by someone who just didn't care. Do you really want somebody's nightmare. Mine had a bad motor, not blown just not running. The interior wasn't too bad, the seats, carpet and dash top need to be redone. That stuff most people can deal with. I looked at a lot of cars and never looked back at any of then because I knew what I was looking at.

I live 3 blocks from the beach and my Z has spent it's whole life here. I have no rust issue at all. In fact I cleaned out the interior for it's first time ever, no rust on the floor pans and I have just light surface rust on the suspension. You really need the metal to stay wet for long periods of time for a rusting issue.

Anyone else out there bought a set of these reproduction headlight cover sets only to find they don't quite fit. There close but it's a no-go on the bottom hole. You really can't flatten them to make it fit because you loose the outside curve. I got lucky because I bought a set of rings ( that we talked about here on the board) about a year ago. There not new but they are original. Anyway I popped out the lenses dropped them in the other rings and damm they fit perfect. I used aluminum nut-serts for the install. works great. Anyway here's a pic. Oh, I did a spring and strut install this week too. Got it down 1.5" sits real nice now.

Hey Geezer, I have the same setup and the same rear stack set up. I do like the fit.

Feeding the mechanical pump with a low psi electric pump made it easier to avoid vapor lock in the fuel lines on the late 72's/ 73 cars. The mechanical pump didn't have to work as hard.

The three into 2 ends up as a 6 into 1 when you go to a single exhaust system, you just have two collectors upstream that dump into a single pipe. I don't think it's going to make that big a difference. it's when you go duals all the way back that you will notice. Just because one guy has or claims he has more power even at a certain rev range does not show off the benefits of one over the other. The motor internals are going to be different, whether it's compression ratio, or cams, or timing. With all these Z's running around I don't think I have ever seen the same car, same motor, same everything test both systems back to back for true results. I have an MSA 6 to 2 to 1 header and I have a Datsun comp header. The Datsun header is 6 into 2 and is ment to run 2 pipes all the way back. Maybe Datsun found something there since a single pipe would have been a much easier install.

If you find the head bolts were not torqued down, then after you tighten them up, pull the plugs to make sure you don't have any coolant in the cylinders. Crank it over a few times with the plugs out otherwise you might have filled the cylinders and that would be bad.

I would replace the cap and rotor. The carbon button in the center of the cap might be worn or sticking. The only time I had a problem with a Pertronix equipped car was that the button on the cap had worn down to the point of no contact with the rotor. It's not a Pertronix problem just a worn out cap.

Sound like the machine shop was wrong. If your not going to replace the rockers, then have them resurfaced. The rule of thumb is a fresh surface on both sides.

I'm missing one front 5020 Tokico red spring. If anyone has one for sale, let me know. slam90814@yahoo.com Thanks

I came across these today and thought I would post them.