matt240K

The Classic Rego scheme in NSW is basically run by the car clubs, not the RTA. that means that different clubs have different rules. Most marque clubs don't care what you drive. I had my rally car on classic rego with the Mini Car Club Of NSW. (some good info on their website - www.miniclub.com.au) I had full rally mods including 3 webers, R31 era wheels, Valiant/Verada/commodore brakes that I built myself, a 27 point rollcage etc etc etc. some car clubs self inspec the cars - others expect pink slips. In the case of the MCC you needed a pink slip, but there are some that don't even do that. most will expect you to turn up to a car club even once or twice a year, but again - the rules are set by the clubs. so shop around car clubs. but there's a sting in the tail, which is the RTA rules. Although, as I said the RTA don;t administer it, they do have some strict restriction on the vehicles use, and they go something like this: you can dive your car from its usual place of residence to and from any event which is listed on your clubs events. (web or magazine) in most cases if you're in the MCC and you want to go to a Zed club event, just notify the club secretary, and they note it int he register as a club event and you're in. you can drive your car to and from place of repair by shortest direct route. you can drive for purposes of testing within 5km of your home. and that's about it. if you want to go to work in your car, you will be unregistered, and uninsured. And if you think you can get away with it - think again. there is bound to be some stale old bugger between your house and work, who has a 1940 Austin 7 on club plate who knows the rules, who's prepared to ring the cops on you. but if you want to use your car for club events its a very good way of going.

Not sure if this has been posted here before, but I couldn't see it if it has. pretty nasty end. in car footage:

I thought there must have been 2. this is a 77. it has the top of the pump that puches into a gromet and pumps directly out of the bottle, and that's different to what i thought i remembered. (my rally car has an aftermarket thing in it, so i haven't seen a genuine one in years) Does anyone know if you can buy a new motor and switch the pump top over on it so it fits the bottle. (so re-use the litle plastic cap that's held onto the motor with 3 screws)

does anyone know if you can still buy washer motors for k's? I'd like to keep the original washer bottle if possible. if they're not available new, anyone got one? thanks, Matt.

no I didn't. I ended up having it panel beaten. it's not quite the right shape, but the guard flares hide a lot of sins.

I picked this up yesterday. very happy with the condition. no rust in the body or doors at all. only the obligaory bootlid. the plan is to get it registered on S plates in QLD. probably not restore it at this stage, just keep it original and running. definately not a parts donor car. :stupid:

I have one if anyone is interested. there's a thread in the 240K forum which has some details if you're interested. Cheers, Matt.

I have a 3-gear 'Hollinger' style gearbox which has become surplus to my needs. it was built by Ivan albin in 1997. It's done a few miles, but still works well. it was rebuilt about 4 years ago. its a brass syncro box. If anyone is interested, please let me know/make me an offer. new ones are about $3000, but i'd be happy to take maybe $1300. I'd prefer it went somewhere here than onto fleabay. cheers, Matt.

I've sold 2 in the past. one for $120 and one fro over $150. I advertised them as "240K Hot Rod steering wheel. And that's the key - they're going into the hotrod market and those guys have deep pockets. the guy who bought my last one put it onto an Austin A30 or something.

help me please!!! I'm in urgent need of a short drive shaft from a 280ZX. I'm sorry i'm not able to give you exact model details, but I'll describe it best I can. Its a CV joint shaft. The total length (without the witches hat cover) is 510mm. to measure that I stood the shaft on the diff end, compressed the shaft into the inner cv, and let the outer part of the outer CV drop down to expose the end of the shaft and the race. I measured fromt he ground to the top of the spring seat which is on the outer end of the shaft. (so not to the end of the cover. on the inner end, the flat section where the oil grooves are is 40mm long (i'm told there are different ones of them as well) I had another one sent up to me, but it measures 530, and is too long. obviously the 510 was a tight fit. So, if you have such a beast you can part with, please give me a call. 02 8868 6706 or 0408 622 840. otherwise, if you know what the different shafts are out of and how to identify the right model etc, any info you can give me will help. I'm racing the car on the weekend, and can't do it without this. Thanks, Matt.

all fixed - now to put it back together, hopefully in time to give it a run next weekend.

I am a bit confused at what the probelm is with the grille? what do we mean we only need one grille? what type? I have a c111 plastic skyline grille in my car, but I wouldn't mind being able to replace it at some point.

unfortunately I haven't yet found something that will bolt straight onto the c110 struts without a bracket. I'm sure there is something, but I haven't found it yet. (180B struts are easier because they have 75mm bolt spacing - you can use Toyota Hilux 4 spot or a number of others.) my front brakes are Z32 calipers and disks. the mounting brackets I'm using bolt with 7 bolts through to the strut. (4 where the backing plate used to be and 3 new ones.) They don't use the original caliper mounting points at all. The beauty of doing it this way is that you can use virtually any datsun strut.

went to visit my car today. looking slightly more repairable now.

time for an update. well, I gave up trying to find replacement panels. the sections I needed were probably too big to be made from scratch, so I have taken the least favourable option of paying a panel beater to straighten it for me. I have some GTR flares going on which will hide some of the sins. I'm going to visit the car tomorrow to see how far along he's got. every panel will be re-painted except the bonnet. the suspension - I welded a new end on the cross member, and then 4 new pivot points for the trailing arm that was ripped off. cross members break in rally cars, so you have to strengthen then significantly. mine has so much work in it, that its easier to do all that i've just describer than to strengthen a new one. the mounting pin mounts were straightened, welded up and plated. I made a new shock mount, and straightened the diff carrier mounting pins. the moustache bar (across the back of the R200) is still a bit twisted, but it fits. its 50mm x 10mm. takes a shed load of heat to straighten. what a PITA. the LH spring seat was heated, straightened, and re-welded. the LH trailing arm adjustment bolt was replaced, and all the rear brakes are new (275mm vented with Rx7 series 4 - 4 spot), as is the LH drive shaft, and both axels. The shocks are still with Murray Coote, so I made some temporary ones buy grinding the mounting points off standard ones and welding them on the opposite end (turns the shock upside down) so all of that just to get it to drive again. hopefully I'll have it back on the road again real soon. note to self - don't do that again.