matt240K

when you say 10" booster, how big is the standard one? i remember when I got my master cylinder off a 280Z, I had to take the booster off and use my original one because the clutch master cylinder was in the way. have you got around that?

no, sorry. I took the body shell to the tip. it had some rust, but not that much.

they're alloy. other than that I can't tell you much about them. I just remembered - I have a question: has anyone tried these calipers on a 15/16" master cylinder? will I need to go up to 1"?

I've had a welded diff for years, and never broken it. I used to break a lot of driveshafts though. carry spares. (I now have a R200 and that doesn't break driveshafts) From my experience, just welding the gears together is not very strong. what I do is cut a small piece of steel (maybe 3-4mm thick) that fits in between the planetary gears, and then weld that on on 4 sides. the steel plates brace the gears together and prevent them from turning, so the welds themselves are not carrying all the load. one of them on each side of the diff and you'll never break it.

I've just finished building some Z32 brakes for mine. The only concern I have is the thickness of the rotors. It carries a fair bit of unnecessary weight. the struts are currently away having some Proflex goodness built into them,() but when I get them back I'll assemble and post some pics. very easy conversion. while I was in the process I also made a set of bolt-ons for 180B struts. VT commode calipers and Saab 9000 rotors. I sold them on ebay for $100, which is about what they cost to put together. anyone who wants good brakes for no money, should consider doing it this way.

I'm nearly certain you can still buy the 555 ones. I bought one at the start of the year, along with a complete set of ball joints, tie rod ends etc. It's possible I got the last one in captivity perhaps.........?

ah, bugger. it would pay me to actually bother to visit here a bit more often. sorry. yes, I do have some if you're still looking.

Hi all, We are in desperate need of a set of triple webbers, 45mm, model number DCOE152. If there is anyone in Sydney or surrounds who may have a set that they would be happy to sell, we need them TONIGHT! Please PM me if you can help out and we'll arrange to come and get them. Thanks, Matt

Ok, apologies for the dodgy photo, but this is what I've got. The 2 door ones have a thicker Chrome ring around the tail light. I'm not sure if the panel itself is phisically different (perhaps slightly taller and narrower (?) someone else may be ably to confirm.

I have one speedo that's marked with both, but unfortunately everything is metric.

there's a few instruments, but TBH I didn't really look at any of them, I'll check tonight. one thing I did notice though - one of the odomotres said 68000 something, and It occurred to me that every speedo unit I've ever seen in a K has been stopped on 60something thousand. you can;t tell how many times they've been round, but It seems to me that, either the speedos all stop working at that point, or the cars do. is it a conspiracy? :paranoid: alien intervention perhaps?

Oh Bugger, I forgot all about you Bryan. :stupid: I'll do tonight for you. sorry mate.

I've bought worse. recently too! If i was in SA, I'd probably buy that for parts. The front guards and bonnet look salvagable, and their always valuable in my garage.

window glass I'm nearly sure is OK. I'll check and PM you tonight. by grill surrounds, do you mean the chrome moulds? if so I think i want to hoard those. Mine's a forest rally car and those parts are high up on the endangered species list for me.

yes, and its out of the car. I have a steering column with a pedal box attached, so that makes it easier. I've been hanging onto the gearbox cross members because I thought they were handy for spares. But i Do have 3 of them, so that's probably more than I really need. so yeah, no probs I can sort you out with one of them.

Ah sorry. done now. I'm in Turramurra. (sydney)

I currently have a heap of parts which I need to get rid of. basically it this: 2 Door parts: I have a complete 2 door car, which I'm wrecking out. The engine is on ebay already and I will sell the interior on ebay as well. (its complete and really good) but other than that the rest of the bits are in need of a good home. the parts I want off the car are suspension and cross members etc, and exterior parts such as chrome trims, guards and doors (or what's left of them anyway) etc. everything else is no good to me. 4 door parts: Basically it looks like I have bits of 2 dismantled 4-doors. There's loads of the Chrome trims in various states, a couple of tail light panels, etc etc etc so if you need anything please let me know. I have loads of stuff that is useless to me, such as heater boxes, ducts, trims, fuel pumps, complete wiring harnesses (out of the car) glove box assemblies, centre consoles, wiper motors, whatever. so please let me know if you need something. I probably have more than 1, and I do need to get rid of it all. Thanks Matt.

I'm a bit confused. Your profile says you're in brisbaine, but this is the car that Arthur Jackson is building isn't it? I had a good look over the car a month or so ago, and the engineering on that car is something to behold. Quite amazing.

yeah yeah, I know. Shameless promotion. But I figure if anyone's been looking for one, then no-one would mind too much me flogging it a bit.

just like this one you mean: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170177314898&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=007

I have a 240K GT intake manifold and also a 240K towbar on Ebay at the moment. I'm not sure if anyone really wants this stuff, but if there's anyone out there who does, go and have a look. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170177314898&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=007 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=170177316821&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT&ih=007

I'm in Turramurra. I can travel though. At this stage i have stragitened my old one. It's not perfect but it turned out much better than I expected it too. I also got one from the 'riverstone wrecker, but its pretty rusty. If need be i'll get it sand blasted and paint it. of course i'd still much rather stumble on a decent one.

i need a rear bar for a 240K. I dont' mind so much if the chrome is a bit dodgy. I can always paint it if need be, but i'd like it to be straight (ish) I'm in sydney and i need it by the ned of next week. thanks, Matt.

oops. shouldn't have used the quick reply for a long post :stupid: 4. roll cage. I have a fully integrated cage right through to the strut towers. it's tagged or welded in about 38 places. . its got cross members under the dash, triangulated door bars, rear diagonals, and rear floor cross members. that changes everything. depends on what you do with the car as to whether you want all that. I can guarantee you'll notice the difference in handling the day you put the door bars in though. 5. the wekest point of a K is not the body. its the rear suspension. I've plated the trailing arms, and also extensively re-inforced the rear cross member. the reason for this is that when they bottom out, the trailing arms y snap. once you strengthen them, the cross member starts flexing. when you build it all liek a fortress it stops breaking.

sorry i just noticed this thread now. I don;t come here much. I have a 240K rally car, which has been strengthened exensively as follows: 1. strut towers. I have had the spot welds come apart before. I stitch them then plate the top with 3 mm plate. 2. chassis rails. stick to the fire wall. (dunno if it reallyhelps much TBH). But the biggest prob with the rails is crushing where the steering members bolt on. I plated both sides, and some cars need tubes welded into the rails. (some already have them) 3. strut brace. a peice of 6mm tongue welded to the reinforing plates on the strut towers. then bot a 30mmRHS tube assy on. why does it need to be adustable? 4.