zcarnut

Get about 4 ft of standard 5/8 inch heater hose at any auto parts store and cut to fit. One end will be a tight fit (where it mates with the water inlet piece), but if you first soak that end of the hose in boiling water this will make it easier to slip on the fitting.

This can occur if you attempt to use a 280Z rear bar on an earlier car.

Here's what Nissan published concerning the damper: TSB # TS75-068A, Sept 3, 1975 “Countermeasures for S30 R180 Differential Noise” To reduce internal noise in the S30 differential a differential noise damper kit is now available as a service part. Differential noise is caused by the tooth meshing action of the ring and pinion gears, amplified by structural vibration of the vehicle body. The noise damper kit contains a 10 lb mass damper weight which attaches to the differential housing to absorb structural vibration and the necessary attachment hardware. The kit can be also be applied on the 1970-74 S30, R180 differentials only. This kit should not be used on any 2+2 vehicle due to possible interference with the rear seat belt attachment bolts. Kit Part Number: 99991-2000

I assume that you have removed the adjusting nut and the spring and the bronze rack retainer? These apply pressure on the rack which side loads the pinion shaft. The pinion shaft bearings are a “light” press fit into the housing. I’ve never had a problem removing the pinion shaft on the three racks I’ve re-built.

All the early 260Z's I've seen have the 260/280Z style dash. Maybe Mitchka's was swapped?

Stephen, my 260Z is an early type (small bumpers) and it has the factory ac system. In our Z car club there are four members with early 260Z and three of the four also have factory ac. However, one member has a very early production numbered 260Z and his car is strange in that not only does it not have ac, but it even lacks the holes in the firewall for the refrigerant lines. He does have the 260Z/280Z dash. So, apparently Nissan started adding the ac systems to the early 260Z's sometime after the 260Z production start date.

“However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results”. Winston Churchill

It's a 1" diameter master cylinder from a Nissan Hardbody truck.

Yes it will fit. Just flip the ZX booster upside down and reverse the master cylinder. Loose the aluminum spacer and shorten the mounting studs. Here’s a ZX booster on my 260Z (which has the same bolt pattern as a 280Z):

#318 (in storage at the Z Barn) has the rubber mats in the rear deck area.

Actually the 1970-72 air filter is different than the 1973-74 one. When Nissan switched to the flat-top SU’s these carbs had more depth and hence the air filter element was reduced in height on the ’73 and ’74 S30 models so the overall depth of the carb plus air filter would be the same.

What you have is a “factory authorized re-print” (photocopy) of the original 1973 FSM. The 1973 manual was the first Z car manual (followed by the ’77 one) to become “out of print” back in the mid 1980’s. In the mid 1990’s Nissan decided to re-issue the out of print manuals but they would be bound photocopies of the originals. This is also how the FSM ‘s for the 1970 and 1971 240Z were created. The original 1970 and ’71 service manuals for the 240Z was actually a set of several manuals, one for the engine, one for the chassis, one for the transmission, etc. The 1972 240Z FSM was the first that had the entire vehicle information inside one manual. Nissan also re-issued bound photocopies of the glove box manuals for several of the earlier Datsun cars (like the 240Z).

Alan; AP Racing Brakes lists a 41.3mm diameter caliper piston. Part number is Ø41.3mm CP3344-109. Might work if you can't obtain the Sumitomo pistons. You would need to check to see if the length dimension of the piston would work in you application. AP Racing Brakes (http://www.apracing.com)

Nissan equipped the Maxima’s with a variety of different amperage alternators depending on year and exact application (different electrical loads). A summarized chart would be: 60A 1981-1984 70A 1985-1986 80A 1985 90A 1986-1994 95A 1992-1994 100A 1995-2003 110A 1995-2003 120A 2004-2006 125A 1995-2003 Notice the overlap. In addition, repair houses will attempt to cover several years/models with one replacement alternator, so you never know what you will find in the junkyard. In general I have found that the earlier 70A and 90A Maxima alternators are easier to swap into a S30 than the later ones.

In reading through this thread it appears that some posters are confusing the terms “plastic electroplating” and “vacuum deposition”. These are entirely two different finish treatments for plastic materials. Vacuum Deposition Vacuum deposition is a process whereby aluminum is vaporized in a vacuum chamber and coats the plastic part with a uniform layer, which shines like chrome. The aluminum layer is very thin and will readily oxidize, as a result, is only recommended for interior surfaces like instrument bezels. Vacuum deposition of a metal coating DOES NOT have the same durability or corrosive resistance that chrome plating does. Electroplating of Plastics Many people think it’s impossible to chrome plastic with a nickel/chromium layer, it is not. While it is possible, it is a difficult and expensive process. The basic problem in attempting to electroplate onto plastics substrates is that they are electrically non-conductive and cannot be directly immersed in a plating solution and coated in the way that metal objects can. You must first coat the plastic with a conductive film to provide the base for subsequent electrodeposition layers. Once the plastic part has been coated with this electrically conductive surface layer it can subsequently be electroplated using conventional technology. The Datsun tail lamp trim pieces were originally finished via electroplating. A proper restoration should be a repeat of this process. Yes, you can re-do the trim parts with using vacuum deposition (it is much cheaper), but the surface finish will be different and more importantly the finish will not last, especially considering where the trim part is located (right above the exhaust outlet). Yes, you can clearcoat the aluminum layer to protect it, but this really affects the surface reflectivity and appearance.

On the 260Z there are two fuel pump relays in series with the rear-mounted electric fuel pump. One of these relays will not allow the electric fuel pump to operate when the engine is being cranked over when starting. I can't imagine the purpose of this "feature", but since the stock 260Z also has a mechanical fuel (like the 240Z) you will still have a supply of fuel to the carbs when cranking. The other relay is to shut off the electric fuel pump if the engine stops rotating. This is a safety feature in case of an accident where you might rupture a fuel line. Although the engine may stop, you would not want the electric fuel pump to continue to pump fuel. This relay requires an electric signal input so as to be able to determine whether or not the engine is actually rotating. On the early alternators (with the external regulator) there is a voltage induced at the "N" terminal of the alternator connector when it is rotating. This is needed to operate the "cut out" relay in the external regulator. On the 260Z Nissan also uses the voltage at the "N" terminal to operate one of the fuel pump relays. (This voltage signal is sent it to the seatbelt interlock module as well.) This is done via an electrical connection off the external regulator (which has it's own connection to the "N" terminal of the alternator). So, when you eliminate the early alternator and it’s external regulator on the 260Z you eliminate this safety feature. I don't feel comfortable instructing someone to disable this safety feature so this is why I never included the 260Z in my “How to Convert a 240Z to Internally Regulated Alternator “ instructions. On my 260Z I elected to feed the electric fuel pump relay with the switched 12V (as you have done) so that the electric fuel pump operates whenever the ignition key is in the ON position. I have triple carbs and I like being able to prime them before starting the engine. It is probably possible to design a circuit that would have an "engine rotation" output signal when using the later internally regulated alternators. I just never got around to doing this. On the later Z cars Nissan used a special oil pressure sending unit (with two terminals) that supplied a voltage when the engine was rotating and therefore generating oil pressure.

My 2/70 #1841 also has the seat guards.

Yes. The black plastic cover was used on the 1974 USA 260Z 2+2. Purely cosmetic. There were no "tool bins" on these Z's, so the jack was secured to the floor near the feet of the backseat passenger.

Hello Steve; My 810 is doing good, thanks. I took it over to an “all makes welcome” car show in Decatur last month and every spectator asked “What is that?” Even one person though it was an old Skyline. I just pulled the rear seat out for the upholstery shop. I’m getting recovered so it will match the front Recaro seats.

After using a pressure washer to remove any grease and oil, I painted mine with Eastwood's "Aluma Blast" spray paint: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=248&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=400&iSubCat=403&iProductID=248 The finish looks very realistic and the paint seals the aluminum surface so it stays clean looking.

I think so. It’s the rubber mount that bolts to the bumper end (with two bolts) and the body. They seem to break easily which is another reason to loose them. I’m sure you could make something. I just thought it was easier to replace the bumper ends with 240Z ones and mount them to the body just like the 240Z did. The hole in the 260Z body lines right up with the 240Z bumper ends.

I did this on both the front and rear bumpers on my 260Z, Wingnut. Once the shocks have been compressed you will need to secure them in the compressed position. I just drilled through both the inner and outer tube and used a bolt and nut. Once the rear bumper is compressed the bumper ends no longer line up with the 260Z rubber mounts. I used 240Z bumper end pieces (with the 260Z center piece) and these lined up with the holes on the 260Z body.

My early 240Z (#1841) has the screws and washers at the bottom of the door panels and when I removed the door panels I think I discovered why: My door panels lack the “slots” for the securing clips at the bottom of the panel(!) So, the factory could not use the clips at the panel bottom and instead used screws. Only the bottom row of slots are missing from the panel. Can anyone confirm my finding on their early door panels?

It’s a lot easier if you park the piston at bottom dead center and then pressurize the cylinder. Finding exact top dead center without bolting a timing wheel to the harmonic damper is very difficult.

It’s always been recommended that you use new or reconditioned cam followers [rockers] when installing a new cam. New Nissan cam followers are some $33 each but Delta Cams re-mans are $4.50 each (with exchange).