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Can new hatch glass for 280z coupes (with horiz. defogger grid) still be acquired in North America? Any experience on this issue?

Has anyone had success with an engine flush to free up oil rings that are failing to control oil blowby above 4250 rpm? Otherwise compression and power are great on a 77 280z with 38,000 mi and a fresh head. Oil useage is about 1qt/1,250 mi using Syntec 5W-50. What brand? Did it affect engine seals? Thx

I have these on my 77 280z stock coupe. They are quiet, great traction, good cornering. Use 33-34 psi. See tirerack.com for prices and reviews. Look good too.

My 77 FI 280z was doing this when the anti-backfire mechanism was "dialed back" too much. This is the screw adjusted valve mechanism under the throttle body that limits the rate at which the engine decelerates when you release the throttle. If it is dialed up too much then the RPMs decrease too slowly and you get no engine breaking power--very annoying/weird shifting. If it is dialed down too much (essentially off) then RPMs drop very quickly. At higher RPM upshifts, this causes the fuel-air ratio to lean out too much (1:20) causing anything from a pop to a bang as a backfire( or is it a prefire?) occurs. I think this adjustment problem is more sensitive when you have a low back pressure exhaust. The answer is to play with the anti-backfire deceleration control valve mechanism until you get the right balance, ie proper deceleration without the poof/pop/bang.

Lance, Your diagnostics are good. I forgot to mention that the head was professionally rebuilt last year with new valve guides and seals when the old head gasket failed and needed to be replaced. Don

Recently changed to synthetic oil, Syntec 5W50 from Castrol 20W50. 77 280z has 37k original miles. Engine has good compression and works well. But, has started to show a little oil smoke when rpm > 4500, none below. Oil consumption is 1 liter (qt) /2500 miles. Switch to synthetic probably losened some dirt/varnish that has caused the oil rings to stick allowing some high rpm blowby. Pcv valve is good. Considering an engine flush to free up/clean oil rings. Any experience or recommendations re my situation/strategy?? Thanks!

Your are correct. The factory a/c used a vacuum controlled valve but the non a/c models used the simpler cable only control. My cable is working well, tight but moving smoothly. Any other thoughts? Thanks for your ideas.

The heater control valve on my 77 280z (non A/C type) was not working well (subject to vibration from circulating coolant at intermediate settings between hot and cold) I got a new replacement from Motorsports. It appeared to be NOS (made in Japan anyway). After the difficult installation process done by a professional Z car garage, the new part seems to have the same problem, although less extreme. Has anyone else had this problem? Given my experience with two similar experiences in a row, is this a minor design flaw or am I unlucky? Any known fixes? Thanks!

Are the left and right chrome bezels interchangeable ie. can you rotate one side 180 deg and install on the other side?? Thanks!

Thanks for the offer, but I am looking for new with horizontal wires. Can I buy it new in N. America??

Can you still buy new glass for the hatch for a 77-78 coupe? Does it come with the defroster electrical grid?

Mine does not have a cat, just the resonator that came on the federal 77s. So do you think I would notice much difference by only replacing the rear muffler. Thanks for your help!

I am looking to improve performance on a stock 77 280z. I am told that the stock muffler is the #1 resistance point in the exhaust flow. I would like a more free flowing straight thru muffler BUT I would still like it not to be too loud. I will stay with the stock manifold, pipe and resonator for now. A Ractive muffler has been suggested. Any thoughts/experience on my goal???

Has anyone tried these new tires? Impressions? What size?

anyone tried this tire on a 240-280Z?? what's it like?? thanks!

does anyone know how to get replacements for the little rubber pieces that fit in the ends of the drip rails, or has someone figured out how to make them??? thanks!

Somewhere high on the pass side of the windshield, water is getting inside the seals and running down the side to pool on the inside bottom of the ws. From there it dribbles down the side of the dash and onto the door and down to the carpet. The seals all look good but water is getting in when the car is moving. I can replicate the problem by spraying a garden hose on the top section of the ws. I have tried using a little black silicone seal but no luck. Any advice about techniques and products to seal this leak??

What brand, type and size of tire are people using on their rides? How do they perform re handling, noise and wear? What would you purchase next time?

I am updating the suspension of my 77 Z. My goal is to have a comfortable, well mannered, reasonably quiet ride. Firm but not harsh. This car will go cruising on the highway and go to the grocery store. It will not be raced. At present, it has the original springs and shocks. They are weak. I don't want the car lowered much. Maybe less than 1 inch, if necessary. What springs and shocks make sense here???

Recently bought a low mi 77 280Z with original, non cracked dash. It has a clean butterscotch interior with non split vinyl basketweave seats. What is the best way to care for these two sensitive ares? What products should I use to clean and replace the 'juices' so they don't dry out???

Recently purchased a low mileage 77 280Z. It has low mi Michelin X 195 70 HR 14 tires all season tires on it. They hold the road well but seem noisy above 65 mph and seem to transmit a lot of road noise into the interior of the car. What modern tires are recommended/prefered for this car that give good performance but minimize the amount of road noise??? I prefer to stay close to the original size. Thanks.