Galaxybj

Does anyone know where to get new tabs for installing the current headlight covers? I have a set I got off ebay, but need the tabs to mount them.

These are two photos I could find and scanned in. The one on the left was taken in 1984, just before I sold her. The one on the right taken in 1974 while living in Clearwater, FL.

On my first '71 Z I had the clear covers and the painted fiberglass. Matching the silver paint was a real pain for the paint guys at Jaremko Motors in Spokane, but they got it as close as they could. The covers back then were tedious to mount as the mounting tabs came from the backside of the bucket - drill a series of holes and file them (jewelers files) so the tab just slid through. Then they were epoxied on the back side. A lot of patience and accurate measuring. Carl Beck (His Blue '72) and I both had the clear ones. I have not seen any on the street with the fiberglass ones. I'll try to scan in a couple pictures and post them. P.S. I am putting them on my current '71 as I really like the look. -Bill-

Not a turbo short block as this is a numbers matching car - original block. If I can't find out who the manufacturer is of these pistons (so I could get just the rings) I will most likely buy a new set of pistons. If I go new, I'll most likely go back to the flat tops too.

My first ride in a 240Z was the day I drove it off the lot of Jaremko Motors on N. Monroe in Spokane, Wa in July 1971. My first eyes on of one was in Okinawa earlier that year. Why did I decide to get one - I drove a 2000 roadster the fall of 1969 and ordered one. Shortly after the sales manager of Valley Datsun in Spokane called me and said he had something for me to see. It was the first brochure out for the 240Z (I still have it) - I told him to forget the roadster and ordered the Z. Would have had the first one in Spokane had it not been for a trip to the Philipines for 18 months.

I also guessed the OO put them in to run regular fuel. I was surprised and kinda disappointed when I saw the dish. I would have liked to have the flat tops because I would like a better performing cam, but don't really want the extra expense at this time to buy new pistons. The head is an E31. The bore measures 83mm - original size for the 240.

I am trying to find out where to get rings for the pistons in my '71 240Z. This is what is on the top of the pistons: RA 2517 020H TOP 0015 TJ These are dished pistons. PO said he thought the original owner had it rebuilt about 50,000 miles ago. Any ideas as to manufacturer and if they are oversized? Appreciate the help. I have not been able to find anything on the web searches I have done. -Bill-

I checked several bone yards last week, but nobody had an early Z or parts of one. I did pick up a support for an L16/18 thinking it might work, but the bolt hole on the distributor plate does not line up exactly with the one in the support.

Hello All! I am in need of a distributor support - the part that bolts to the front cover and the distributor inserts into it. Attached is a photo. It is the bottom part, which has a bolt with a washer showing. I have one possibility locally, but wanted to check here too.

Was at a car show in the park here in Rio Rancho today and a beautiful 1973 240Z (sn: 128853) was there. The owner says it is original. Has just over 48,000 showing on the odometer. Has the original owners manuals, notebook with service records. He has the original steel wheels with hubcaps, the interior is all original and in perfect condition. The clock works. He has extra parts like a 5 speed and head light covers. It is for sale - asking price is $20,000. He gave me permission to give out his name and phone number in case anyone wants more information: John Lawrence, 505-988-5888. I am not an expert at determining total originality, but under the hood it appears there has been some painting done as the motor mounts are same blue as the block, the hood hinges are the same orange as the car. On the block, where the engine number is stamped, it is painted blue also. The muffler was painted black (why? maybe for show.) Was hard to see the under carriage real well since it was on grass, but what I could see was straight and clean. Over all - really nice car.

Thanks for the link Carl. I think the cam that is in the head that was on the car is a "C". If that is the case I may swap them out based on the information on the spec sheet. P.S. Sorry we couldn't link up when I was in Orlando the first of the month.

There are oil passages in the cam, so all should be well. The cam has an "A" with long dashes centered on each side of it stamped on the firewall end and red paint by #2 valves. Any thoughts/knowledge on what year it came from?

I have an E31 head that has been rebuilt. Got it off EBay. It does not have mount points for the oil bar on the cam towers. They are solid, no holes. Has anyone seen this before on an E31 and should there be a concern? Is it possible they are from a newer head?

Well, I tried all the suggestions I received this winter on how to get the head loose on my '71 L24, except for the cherry picker suggestion. It was like it was super glued on. What finally worked was a suggestion from a shop down the road. Back the #1 cylinder off from TDC a bit and stuff as much as possible small diameter nylon rope in the #1 and #6 cylinders, then using a breaker bar with socket on the crank pulley and turn back to top dead center. It took a lot of muscle power, but it finally popped loose. Of course now I get to work on getting the crank pulley bolt loose so I can pull the pulley and front cover. Hopefully it won't be too bad. One other thing, the head bolt I had to cut off and one of the two others that broke came out by finger after the head was off. The second one that broke - that is another matter. The head would not slide off the shaft of that bolt and during the process of trying to wiggle it off it broke flush with the block. There's only about 1/2" if the bolt left in the block so it should come out ok. -Bill-

57years, 6 months, 10 days here in Rio Rancho, NM

I would swap for my first 240z - HLS30-30855

Has anyone used the cam kits from Arizona Zcar? Any thoughts, suggestions. I am looking at the 480 lift/270 duration cam.

All bolts are out, including the two little ones on the front of the head. Maybe I ought sell opportunities for swings at it - the one that busts it loose gets the pot, money that is ; - ) I'll be getting out my two by four and getting the big hammer out. Have to even try the wood wedges too Matt. I really appreciate the suggestions - one has to work.

Talk about a really nice Z!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-1970-Datsun-240Z-Series-1_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6187QQihZ005QQitemZ150082025114QQrdZ1

Don't know if any of you have experienced this, but I have a head that refuses to part company with the block. I have tried pushing up from the bottom side on the drivers side where the head extends past the block with a 2x2 and a hydraulic jack. I have jacked until the front tire was off the ground. I have tried from the top side with a 4x4 resting on the shock towers with a 2T hydraulic jack on top of it with a chain connected to the two engine lift brackets and have raised it until the cam was at the bottom of the 4x4. It will not come loose. Arne has suggested trying a cherry picker to lift the engine by the head and drop it then suddenly closing the valve on the cherry picker before the engine hits bottom. I haven't tried that yet as the weather is quite cold and I'll have to move the car out of the garage to accomplish that. What I am looking for now are any other ideas that may be out there to get the head off.

Ok Arne and others, I have tried the floor jack with a 2x4 under the edge of the head on the drivers side and jacking the jack and pulling from the top side with a chain connected to the lift points and some hammer action on the block. This head does not want to come off. I do not want to resort to removing the engine from the car. Any other ideas?

Arne, you hit the head (no pun intended) of the nail on the bolts. The ones that have come out, the threads are fill of guck. The reason I am pulling the head is that I had a seep where the head and block meet above #4 and 5 sparkplugs and the last three cylinders are damp. I had 4 that I had pull like a nail out of the head and one that I can't pull through. The stubborn one - I tried the heating trick - no luck. I resorted to the cut it off technique rather than going ahead with breaking it. Hacksawed halfway through then twisted it off. Now I have to get the head loose from the block to get it off to the machine shop. Thank you all for the input. Oh, by the way, I ordered the turbo head bolts and have made notes from other threads on how to make them easier to remove in the future.

Ok, I tried all of the above and the last head bolt refuses to come loose. It unscrewed for a few turns and now it won't budge either direction. I have drowned it with liquid wrench, put steady pressure on it trying to get it to go either direction and it just plain refuses. Any other ideas out there?

As Carl said we had Z's as new. I bought my first one in July 1971 after returning from the Phillipines, 5/71 production. Unfortunately I sold it in 1984. Carl and Phred, thanks for the info. At this time I am only planning on taking care of the head gasket, as long as that is all I find wrong once I lift the head off. I will get it checked by a machine shop while it is off though. The notch on the cam sprocket is on the right side of the mark on the plate, so it should be ok. Especially since it is still set on the #1 mark.

Curtis240Z, the #1 hole on the sprocket is the one aligned with the cam pin. SO everything indicates the cam is timed to #1 mark. My real question now would be why does the sprocket mark line up between links and not centered on a link as all photos show and my past experience has been? It appears I can proceed as long as I mark the chain next to the #1 mark on the sprocket, which I had previously done, unless someone has other input. I had wondered as you, maybe the chain was on backwards, but I did not see a mark or bright link on the backside either. -Bill-