Galaxybj

I remember them. My wife at that time had one. It was a lot of fun to drive, economical, and actually wasn't bad looking. Hers was burgundy with the black roof band. Sorry no photos though.

Ok, I cycled through TDC 10 times, never did the #1 sprocket mark align with the center of a link, nor did a marked or bright link appear. It was consistent with aligning between links. On the 10th cycle it aligned with the paint mark I had put on the chain. Maybe as long as I have the chain marked it won't make a difference. Any other thoughts?

I am preparing to remove the head on my Z and in setting things to TDC I have found the #1 timing mark on the cam sprocket falls between two chain links, rather than in the middle of a link as photos show and past experience has been. There is no "bright" link in the chain that I have been able to find. I have cleaned it, but not one link stands out from the others. The notch on the camshaft sprocket is just to the right of the line on the locating plate as it should be. The crank pulley TDC mark is lined up with the timing pointer. Rotor in the distributor is on #1. Cam lobes for #1 are at 10 and 2. So it is on TDC. Any ideas? Any reason to be concerned as long as I have a paint dot on the chain opposite the #1 mark on the sprocket? I have not not run across this before. I have read previous posts on similar subjects and so there are no questions/comments as to my resources and abilities, I do have the Datsun factory service manuals for the 240Z (originals from 1971), a service manual from Henley Press (1971) and a Haynes manual. (was in this Z when I bought it). I have also rebuilt a couple of Datsun 4 cylinders for a 610 coupe and 620 pu. Though I am no professional, I do have some experience and knowledge, though not as much as some of you and that is why I am asking for assistance here. Any input is greatly appreciated. -Bill-

Carl Beck is in Clearwater. Extremely knowledgeable.

My Z now has all the dash lights working. Wanted headlight covers, but none showed up. Tried to get a clock working for her too, but no luck.... yet.

On my first 240Z I used Valvoline oil exclusively - Filters were generally Datsun, but also used Fram. In my current 240Z I have switched it over to Amsoil synthetic, with an Amsoil filter. As far as fuel, I am using regular and have no pinging. I am at 5,000+ feet in elevation. We will see what happens in trips to lower elevations.

How about the hood release handle and the passenger side door grab handle (just need the chrome pieces)? -Bill-

I bought my Z in Tuscon in June, drove it home to Rio Rancho, NM and drive it daily back and forth to work. Once in awhile I run errands in it. I have a hard time convincing myself to put her up on jack stands and do a front to rear check up. My first Z was a different story. She was a fair weather car and no winters. Only 70,000 miles in 13 years.

That is amazing! Very good job. My Z is an Arizona original and the original owner put on a dash pad to cover the cracks - then the dash pad cracked. I may just have to try this, especially if it proves tough enough to withstand the heat.

I say the poorest design, limiting myself to one response here, is the plastic choke handle. I believe it was the roadster cables that had a metal handle or maybe it was the SSS setup I had on my 620 pu and 610 coupe.

Not sure if I will get the opportunity to get a photo of the VIN on the firewall or even get to look at the car again. Called the current owner and shared some of the thoughts here and asked if he had checked the VIN on the firewall yet (I had mentioned that to him last Friday or so) and he said he hadn't. I mentioned the price was a bit high and he got quite upset and hung up. So.....if he parts it out, as he did mention that today again, I hope he advertises, as I want some of the parts - if he is reasonable on pricing them.

On my first '71 240Z I had the clear covers that were available in 71/72, as well as the fibreglass ones used on the racing Z's. They were painted to match the car. There were 3 tabs that required drilling small holes in the headlight bucket, filing the holes out to a slit just right to fit the tabs in the headlight bucket, epoxy glue them from the backside of the bucket and used stainless hex screws to hold the covers on on. Time consuming process to mount, but well worth it in my opinion. They added a bit more sleekness to the front of the car, not to mention a few extra looks. Yes, you had to remove them to dry out the water after washing the car, but to me that was just a bit more of the labor of love for the car. I too am looking for a set to put on my current '71.

Yes, Moriarty is to the east of Albuquerque, about 20-25 miles. Art: The bumpers are on a pallet close to the car. I have to agree with your thoughts on the price, but the seller said that is the price....period! If he doesn't get the price he plans on parting it, IF he can get enough people lined up for parts that equal/exceed what he is asking for the car as is.

Good advice Bruce. After doing some zooming on a couple of the pictures more questions have come to mind as to what year it really is. In particular the photo that has the dash and console area in it. The dash appears to have a hole where the lighter would go and there appears to be a pin on the upper right side of the console in the area where the fuse cover would go. Which I assume would mean the fuse cover is hinged, which I am guessing the 72Z is. With this and what I have noted above, there may some fishy dealings here. Maybe someone in the past had a 72/73 that they used parts (LOTS of them) on this? Carl, your one comment (Maybe there is a reason it's missing it's engine data tag. ) made me look over the pictures closer (zoom) Thank You!! -Bill-

Carl, Where on the firewall? I guess I don't recall the VIN being on the firewall. The tag on the dash matches the door tag. As I look at things listed in the ZHome page noted above - this car has horizontal defroster lines, the headlight bucket from the left front that is not installed is metal, and the gas filler door is from a 72 or newer. Hmmmmmm.... I am now starting to wonder the real history. May have to make the drive out there again to look at other things a little closer. Any other tell-tale signs to look for?

Okay all you experts out there - based on the photos posted - is this worth the $995.00 and would you buy it if you were closeby? It is currently advertised as for sale or will part out. The seller does not want to part it, but has to clean out his area. He restores Mustangs and Cougars and won't take on the Z. I hate to see this car parted out and would try to scrape the $$ together if the guy calls me and says that his decision is to part it.

Question - Is there a way to determine if there may be a leak of coolant from the intake manifold rather than the head gasket and would the symptoms be the same?

I have started to experience the same heavy water vapor symptoms, though not to the same degree every morning. Checked the oil and no water there, but the radiator level was down some. Didn't appear to be any oil sheen or "blobs" in the water either. Also, the vapor smells some of antifreeze. I also noticed some antifreeze at the head/block between 5 and 6 cylinders. I know my next step......r/r head gasket.

Well, here are some photos of the Z in Moriairty, NM. It is pretty rough, but I am sure someone out there could turn into a real beauty. I just don't have the expertise or $$$ to do it right, especially since I bought a '71 earlier this year. There is no engine plate attached to the inner right fender, but it does appear to be original engine - complete. No radio; floor pans looked good, frame rails appear to have surface rust; no bubbles in the dog leg or rocker panel area. Seller is fixed on asking price, which seems to be good considering overall condition.

DATSUN 1971 240-Z 6cyl, 4spd, needs restoration, orig cond. $995. 832-5453/ 688-8817 http://classifieds.abqtrib.com/search.php?offset=25&query=where+class+%3D+3030&final=&class_sect=Classic%2B%2526%2BSpecialty&a_date=ALL&max_results=25&PHPSESSID=acff1220e41271efc9a2521002d00667 Found the above ad in the Albuquerque Tribune. Called on it and the owner gave a 12/70 built date, no sn, number matching engine - original - doesn't run, but the engine turns over; repainted in the past and is peeling, some "surface" rust; NM car from new; interior bad shape; Not real informative other than that. Would need to be trailered by purchaser. I am going to try to get out to look it over in the near future. If I do, I'll put what I find in here.

I was shopping for a sports car in the summer of 1969 - Drove the MGB GT, Triumph GT6, drooled over the Toyota 2000GT and then drove a Datsun 2000. Such a fun, fast car to drive. I was sold on it - an order was written up. Then..............the sales manager at Valley Datsun in Spokane Washington called me and asked me to come in - he had something to show me. What he had was a two sided early release brochure of the Datsun 240Z. I told him to forget the roadster - I want a Z. Unfortuanately I had to wait until July 1971 to take delivery - I had to take a trip to the Phillipines with the Air Force. A friend of mine got the first Z in Spokane, which would have been mine. Anyway - long story short - the performace of the 2000 roadster and the body of the 240Z was what sold me on it. -Bill-

Carl, those are the mount points for the fender mirrors. My 610 coupe that I had also had the plastic "filler" which had a bolt on the under side of the fender. Unbolt it and the mirror mounting holes are there. -Bill-