Galaxybj

The rubber insulators mentioned above - how do they attach? I just got the louvers off ebay and they do not have the insulators mentioned. Yes, they are the Chastain Shadow louvers - decal is still on them. Any thoughts as to what could be used in place of the original insulators? Thanks in advance for ideas. -Bill-

Here is a link to a thread about how I got my first Z back http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31481. Here is a link to the story as Carl Beck documented the trip to pick her up for me http://zhome.com/Carl/BJ71Z/FindingAnOldFriend1.htm. Bought new July 1971 in Spokane Wa., sold in June 1984 in Kennewick,Wa and found in August 2008 in Georgia. All the stars in the universe seemed to have aligned for me to get her back.,

Went by "Loid's Rides" this afternoon and looked her over and asked general questions about their work and what not. I have to say what they have done so far looks REALLY good . Appear they pay a lot of attention to detail. I looked at a '55 Chevy they did and it looks great! They are on top of my list when it comes to taking mine in for the "makeover". Keep up on the pictures.

Great pictures of the before and the during. Look forward to seeing the final results. Thanks for including the name of the shop as I will be looking for a place to work on 30855 in just a few months. I may have to drop by early next week and maybe see the end results, if your car is still there. -Bill-

As much as I would like to post to some of the threads that have "heated" discussions, I avoid doing so as I do not want to get in the mix. I'll pm the originator of the post to give my input or support rather than keep the hornet's nest stirred. I am still restoring the knowledge I had back when I was really in the know on Z's, so I won't interject unless I know I am correct or at least can add a disclaimer. There are a lot of very knowledgeable folks here and I appreciate the transfer of info. There are also those who seem to have a hard time handling the fact there are others who may know more than themselves.

I too am interested in responses to this question. I have the original set that I had installed on my '71 when I bought it. After years of neglect in a Georgia shed they are in need of real cleaning.

I have both of mine insured through American Modern Ins Group (sub of USAA). Supplied photos and agreed value of $12,000 on my gold Z and $7,000 on the silver. That will most certainly be changing once I am done with the refresh on her:).

Finallly was able to contact the owner last night and it appears someone from Kentucky has spoken for it. They are supposed to be making arrangements for transporting it back there. The owner had not heard from them as of last night so I will be making contact again Friday to see if the sale actually went through. If not, then I will attempt to arrange to see it - owners schedule sounds to be packed - full time work and full time student.

Not a dealer option, just an owner option. I did the same to my rockers shortly after I bought it in '71.

Found this on Craigslist: http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/1375826476.html Hope to arrange to take a look at her this weekend. According to the ad this car has not left the family since new. More info to come if I get to look it over.

JFWIW - In 1972 I put the comp 5 speed in hls30-30855 using the gearing that the 2000 roadster had and the comp 4.44 lsd. Overall ratio in 5th was 3.77. I never felt that it was too low geared for the highway and got decent mileage too. I had engine work (cam, distributor, SM needles) done at FAR Performance so it was putting out more hp over stock, but not a lot more. I never minded the bit higher rpm's and enjoyed the performance. I look forward to getting her back on the road - maybe next year.

For the heck of it: AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 and 20W-50 Premium Protection Motor Oils are high-viscosity oils engineered to protect against metal-to-metal contact. They resist viscosity shear and are formulated with a heavy treatment of zinc and other anti-wear additives. They are recommended for air- and liquid-cooled, large or small gasoline and diesel engines, transmissions and chaincase applications where 10W-40 or 20W-50 oils are required with any of the following specifications: • API SL/CF, CI-4 Plus • API SJ, SH, SG… • ISO-L-EMA • JASO MA (Motorcycle) • Cummins 20071/20072/20076/20077 They provide the extra anti-wear protection required by engines with flat-tappet cams and high-tension valve springs. I use Amsoil synthetic in my Duramax and the wifes Outback. I have a case of the 20-50 to go in the two Z's at next oil change. Just my $.02 worth.

Was this car from Seattle - Downtown Datsun? Please pm me if so as I may have photos of at least one of their race cars.

If you do some searches here you will find many answers to this question. However, the most popular response is to pull the spark plugs and pour (I use an oil squirt gun) some atf (automatic transmission fluid) into the cylinders and let it sit for a couple days, then try to turn the engine over by hand - use a breaker bar with socket on the crank pulley bolt. You may also want to pull the valve cover and pour atf over the camshaft and the valves at the sametime you put it in the cylinders. Good Luck.

Tried this question within a previously opened thread, but it faded to depth's w/o reponses so trying a fresh thread. Been looking through various threads concerning the lock nut on the tie rod. I want to get a replacement left hand thread nut for the drivers side. The one that was on there got chewed up a bit trying to get it lose (It will still work, just want to put a good one on). I ordered one from Black Dragon, but the nut is thicker than the stock nut and larger in diameter. I have checked all the nut and bolt places here in Albuquerque, but no left hand, fine thread metric nuts. Does any one know where I can get a nut that is the same as the original? Also, on the rack there is a plastic grease reservoir on the top of the passenger side of the rack - are these available or is it best to put in a grease fitting? Thanks in advance for informaton on the lock nut and/or the grease reservoir. -Bill-

The Big guy was really watching over you! Living and driving in the Albuquerque area has given me the heightened awareness of those around me. People follow too close, will change lanes if possible (sqeezing in between the cars in that lane) rather than slow down when you are planning to turn, and drive way too fast on the city streets. I personally have had two cases this year where the Big guy was watching over me and my Z. Thank goodness for rearview mirrors and that "magical" opening just when it is needed.

Been looking through various threads concerning the lock nut on the tie rod because I want to get a replacement left hand thread nut for the drivers side. The one that was on there got chewed up a bit trying to get it lose (It will still work, just want to put a good one on). I ordered one from Black Dragon, but the nut is thicker than the stock nut and larger in diameter. I have checked all the nut and bolt places here in Albuquerque, but no left hand, fine thread metric nuts. Does any one know where I can get a nut that is the same as the original? Also, on the rack there is a plastic grease reservoir on the top of the passenger side of the rack - are these available or is it best to put in a grease fitting? Thanks in advance for informaton on the lock nut and/or the grease reservoir. -Bill-

I agree with Zedyone Kenobi - get all the parts and do it right the first time. I put in the 270/280 .460 lift cam from MSA and really like it. The power comes on strong at about 3,000 rpm. One thing I suggest - get a variety of lash pad thicknesses and take the time to check the wipe pattern on each rocker to make sure it is centered. I suggest at least a combination of 160 and 170 thickness - those are the two thicknesses I used to get the wipe pattern the same on all the valves.

If someone has more or knows a source I'd be interested too. I have 4 on the original wheels of my 5/71 Z and they are showing their age. Thanks!

Congratulations!!! My desire for a Ferrrari has been around since I saw a 275GT in 1972. The model I want though is the 330GT 2+2 (single headlight). I keep hearing the words Ron Tonkin (owner of many dealerships in Portland, Or) said to me one day - "You'll have one". Well, one day it may just show up in my garage.

My official daily driver is my 2002 GMC Duramax, 4x4, crew cab, with 3" exhaust and Edge Juice w/Attitude - http://www.edgeproducts.com/product.php?pk=49&pvk=131 Once in awhile I'll take my '68 chevy C10 out for a ride to get stuff for home projects or out exploring the wilds. My 2/71 240Z was driven daily, but I recently changed to collector insurance - which I got the option for 2 days a week of driving it to work legally (an extra $50.00 a year).

Based on what I see in the side front photo, this is a 73 - the front bumper sits out further and has the rubber extension on the side. The front photo shows the bumper guards are set nearer the center of the front bumper rather than inline with the inside edge of the headlight bucket. Also, the ad at the associated link says - 1973

I forgot to mention the underside of this Z - It is in perfect shape. Floor pans are straight - no dents. Very clean. No rust anywhere under the car - except on the exhaust system : -)

Went and looked at this Z today. 3/72 is the manufacture date. The dealer has all the original paperwork - window sticker, owners manual, warranty booklet, radio booklet. It was sold new in Albuquerque and has had 2 owners. There are receipts for a lot of work done by the 2nd owner - interior (seat upholstery and carpet in 2005), dash cap, 3 row radiator, paint, etc. Now, for the overall look - it is ok - the paint is good, but no door dings were repaired (look down the side and see lots of dimples). Right rear by taillight has been repaired, but not the best in the bondo part. There are a few small rust bubbles under the paint in the dog legs and some on the rocker panels. There is corrosion under the battery tray, but didn't feel any rust through. The engine has not been apart - even has some original braided hoses and clamps. Stock exhaust system. Stock spare wheel and 175x14 tire. Bumpers are in great shape, the rubber strips do have some cracks, but not major ones, Has the jack, tools, and wheel chocks. Would make a good daily driver and a really good start for a restore.

Not sure if anyone is interested, but just saw this - http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/ctd/1142554874.html I have not gone to look at it, but if I get a chance I will.