ZCCOR#109

Thanks, like to have photos. PS I’m the guy who traveled from The Republic of Korea in 1970 to watch the “RRofChampions. Saw John Morton and BRE win in that beautiful 240Z. Came home in May 1971, ordered our Z, it has 87,000 miles. And, in 2018 got to race against John at Road Atlanta in my other 240Z. ? What a great weekend.

Andy Doll and I are members of ZROC. Central Ohio. Andy built a beautiful car over the past two years. Tough to end up in the tires when they worked all day Thursday to get it running with clutch issues. Mine #50 is an ITS car. Very stock. We are refining it? John Morton came by to sign Andy's door.?

When the championship was at R Atlanta, the local Region came up with the ARRC term. When they moved the Championship to MO, SCCA National Office didn't own the term. Now the ARRC title is used for a Regional Class Cars National Championship put on by the local region at R Atlanta.

Great read. I was THERE. I was home on mid-tour leave from Korea. Came down from Ohio with my Brother who was a D Prod TR4A racer not qualified (wrecked at MO). :-( Wife and I saw the beautiful BRE Z cars, came home in May 71, put $100 down at the Bel Air MD dealer. Top of the list in Oct..no cars...Dock strike...Dec they shipped cars from Vancouver BC. Got the pick of five Z's. Unheard of as then you got whatever came in next to the dealer. The blue and white Z has 89,000 miles and took 2nd at ZCON in Toronto last summer . Lots of Autocross trophies in Baltimore/Washington Council of Sports Car Clubs. Joe Ruffing and I did three evens in three states one Sunday. He had a 2000 that he ran the stuff out of. Fast. Miss him.

Two upholstery kits for 1974-78 Z, for 260-280 Z "OFF WHITE". NEW!! I bought from Motorsports Auto years ago, and they sent off white instead of white. I didn't realize that error until last month until I started to use ... Each kit is now $234 new at zcar parts. I'm selling for $300 TOTAL for two kits. Still in the original shipping box. You pay shipping.

Sweatybetty, your link is not active?? Help with it plz

I have two manuals and the restoration manual and find no detail of the rebuild.???

Who has detailed knowledge of clean and lube the sliding joint part of the 1972 240Z axles. talking about removing the boot and breaking the axles onto their two parts, clean and lube...then of course get the thing back together!!! what you got folks. Thanks

March 2016 update i just ordered hoses and I'm in the process. Tank is down and out. Trying to figure out sequence of removing these very stiff hoses OUT. REASON IM WRITING found a source of metric hoses that are all modern fuel(ethanol ) rated Belmetric.com. A source of metric fasteners and hoses the braided 17 & 14 mm ...search RH17 and RH14 for CONTINENTAL vacuum, fuel , etc hose the 5, 8, 10 mm ...search RMH 5, 8, 10 FLENNOR Multi fuel hose 19 mm is not available now to the bends...They offer stainless hose benders. A wire wrap that supports the hose and makes the turn RHBEND 23.6 for for the 17 mm hose RHBEND 21.2 for the 14mm RHBEND 16.5 for the 8mm NOT cheap but the correct products. Sold by the meter I got TWO meters of the 14, 17, 8, and TWO ea 14-17 benders!!! TOTAL $199.64 free shipping. I think I could have gotten by with one meter but?? It's just money. The labor is what is kicking my but at 71.

Brian,no. Don't leave it open! I put DOT 5 in about 20+ years ago. Works fine. You must clean the system be fore using. Which means draining all the old out. I removed the flex hoses. And let lines and cylinders drain for several days. I have read you should flush with Mineral Spirits, but didn't and have not experience any problems. I guess there was minimum residual with my waiting as there would have been evaporation as well as draining of old fluid. The added benefits for collectors is DOT5 does not damage paint.

What is the original "Group" battery for the 1972 Z

Original battery? Like gone in 1975 I would say. I do know that there is an original plastic cover for the battery that is held down by the metal rack. That cover has a center opening for the cell plugs....the original battery had the round screw in cell plugs. I have never found a battery that had those any more plugs in the same location. The new batteries have the plugs that pry out, three cells at a time..and not the same length and position on the battery to allow for the plastic cover to installed. This it is in storage somewhere. To be sure, you have the group 25 battery? Mine never need any "riser" to fit Anyone else have another that is a good fit?

What is the CORRECT battery group for our 1972 240Z's?? My group 25 fit but was a bit short in length.

So, as of this date May 8, 2012... Are the Nissan parts original, i.e. new old stock? That would mean putting on 40 year old parts wouldn't it? I'm thinking the price keeps going up because there are no more available/ being made and thus, supply and demand.

Passing on my experience. The clock was repaired in 1983 but always ran way fast after. Decided to adjust a month ago, but evidentially I broke it. :-( Did some searching and found this place that specilizes in upgrades of old auto clocks. Instrument Services, Inc 117 Main Street Roscoe, Il 61073 email instrumentservices@frontier.com www.ClocksandGauges.com Cost was $150 plus shipping there of $13 and from there $15. Total of $178 They replace the inner workings with a quartz movement. They also restore the face, hands, and polish the lense face.Takes about two weeks. They call you when they are ready to work on your clock for your credit card , which is charged when they complete the work. I give them 5 stars, for now I have a time keeping clock in the car.

Yes, the 89 Honda fits. You have to modify the "gasket" or seal. AND, the fan turns the wrong way. You have to reverse the wires and the motor then turns the correct way...BUT the squirral cage blades are then not turned/curved the correct direction. However, even with the blades curved the wrong way, this motor pushes more air than the original. If one could find a squirral cage that would fit the shaft and have the blades turned the correct way. Wha...tornado I would think. If the wires are wrong you won't get much air at all, as the "housing" is made for a particular direction of the fan rotation where by the air is "trapped" so it is moved forward only one way.

Yes, you have to have the "replacement" hanger pieces that have the addition material out to the sides that the swaybar attaches to. The ADCO bar I used came with those hanger plates (1973 year of our Lord) Don't know if you got those with your bar but you must have. Later model Z's that came with the factory rear bar had an attachment point on the floor pan. A reinforced area, and captured nut where the bar was attached to the body.

Do it correct the first time. Work ALL the components, replace the flexable lines, check for rust on the hard lines, rebuild all cylinders. You will be set. Amen, read.. read..read..up on brakes. They are simple to overhaul but there is skill involved and knowledge required. Remember if you change to synthetic or silicone fluid as I did, you have to purge all the current fluid from lines and all the cyclinders.

Yo Greg, Thanks for carrying on the Z car tradition in SCCA racing. Are you to be at RA in EP again this year?

I would advise to seek out a good AC private tech to check your whole system. I personally installed parts and pieces from "Vintage Air" in Texas to update my after market AC. http://www.vintageair.com/ I also updated the fan with the 1989 Honda blower. I kept the evaporator from the after market installed in 1973 as that is the "key" piece that is custom made for the Z. The rest (hoses, compressor, drier, condensor), are just standard AC pieces. My goal was to update to a 134a coolant system. Success!! However, one has to run the AC several times a year or the oil and fluid will leak out of the compressor as the seals will dry up!! :-( Keep in mind that you can quickly remove the driving belt from the compressor by loosing the tension pully. I did that at every autocross back in the day. Takes three minutes max and no power loss. Cold air is great.

I would add, that the A/C hung below the heater air inlet will restrict some of your ability to view the operation of the "flap" that opens and closes the various "outlets/passages". You may have to drop the A/C unit away to view and correct. Also, the several plastic hoses/ducts that route air may have come loose or been removed. They slide over metal outlets and are held in place by small metal screws. Difficult to remove and replace those screws. maybe previous owners didn't and the plastic air duct "fell off". PS if your after market A/C is like mine, it only operates on interior air. that is to say the exterior cabin air sources are shut off, and the cabin air is routed through the a/c evaporator and then into the existing heater room inlet and out the vents.

As for the straps in early seats, mine an 10-71 1972 model, those straps are made of "Pirelli Webbing". You can get it at various reupolstery shops. It is stretchy when new, but turns to hard stuff that looks like it was on fire or heated when old and looses all its substance. I carefully opened the rivits that hold the webbing and reused them. Job looked original and seat was like new. To make the job easier I separated the back and bottom of the seat. That required a special tool to loosen the screws that hold the hinge. Mine were TIGHT! It is a large screwdriver that is struck at the rear with a hammer and has a gear device that multiplies the turning force while at the same time forcing the bit into the philips head of the screws. works.

As I read this I find fault with some of the "explanation" of bleeding. Why would anyone put "pressure" on the pedal while bleeding. My wife and I have bleed the Z's brakes for over thirty eight years and only once did she put "pressure" on the system. That was my fault when I said "down" and didn't have the bleeder open. Result? The fluid shot out on the right front as I opened the bleeder, hit the inner fender/frame, went past my eye glasses from the side, and into my left eye. What's up with that? Wife poured several glasses of water into the eye while I lay on the garage floor. Enough of that story. Bottom line you don't need Pressure while bleeding. Nice and easy does it. Move the fluid slow. Bottom line. I open the bleeder and say "down". She slowly strokes the brake pedal down and when fully down says "down". I close the bleeder and say "up". She slowly raises the pedal and says "up". She is the best. There is NO pumping up the brake pedal! That only stirs things up and gets any available air into the mix. I have completely rebuilt the Z's system twice and changed to synthetic, so at least twice we were working with an empty system. Same process. Sequence is: Suck all old fluid out of the master with a turkey baster or similar. Wipe clean, and add new fluid. Bleed in order 1. Rt rear, Lf rear, right front, left front. far to near of the master. You bleed each until fluid is clean and no bubbles are appearing. My first learning experience with problematic brakes was the 1928 A of my brother that he had modified to hydraulics. 48 Ford wheel cylinders and 56 Master Cyl. Not compatable but I stopped that d#$% thing with all my legs could muster. But that's another story not told.

http://www.autoweek.com/article/20100720/CARNEWS/307209999 Autoweek article about Datsunland Museum.

I just install the new retractables from Motorsport auto that are made by some other supplier. Not the greatest set up but better than the originals that I had as far as safety. issues were: 1. The belts were fed incorrectly through the "slide" piece that bolts to the roof. Luckly it all threads out and can be turned. 2. The inner belts that mount at the drive shaft tunnel are sewn backwards and they want you to use a 90 degree bracket to account for that. And that set up doesn't fit well. The solution was to cut loose the end of the belt that is turned up and sewn to keep the web from falling of the buckle. Then have a shoe repair resew. There is nothing of strength there, as the fold and sew is just a stopper. 3. The shoulder belt slide is mounted at the original location on the roof. This point is Too far to the rear and too far behind the driver for comfort. The belt now rides on my neck and I will have to buy a wool cover for the belt to moderate that. 4. The inner belt is still something that falls down next to the seat if you don't watch what you are doing. The system should have one of those fixed/stiff items that is always in position requiring you to only plug the reel belt into it. The good side is that the reel allows you to move in the cabin to do things like open the air vents under the dash without loosing the belt, and the old belts would loosen on their own over a 10 minute drive requiring continuing tightening so that is gone. I still havn't driven any with the new set up. May be a good deal and maybe not. An orginal 70's erra reel system would be nice, IF you replaced all the old webbing.