ZCCOR#109

More insight I have an aftermarket system installed in 1973. It was R12, I replaced everything except the under dash expansion kit with parts from Vintage Air. I engineered the system with parts from their catalog. It works well. I had to have "o" ring connectors brazed onto the evapo in the correct size. That was a challenge to find. I would be skeptical of using any parts from an R12 system with R134a gas. This is a good topic for argument, ask the Vintage Air folks their take on the topic. Remember, you really need to control the heat entering the cabin. The modern insulation, available from several sources has reflective surface and is very effective for the weight required. Put it on the firewall, under the floor mats, inside the interior of doors, and rear area. Then put dark tint on the windows, and or shade on the hatch. I put a "Siddle Shade" inside my hatch, they are no longer available as they were a precurser of tinting. Yes, a bigger blower would help the system. ATTENTION. The first installation of my system was done by some retards. They DID NOT get the evapo kit attached properly so it did not fit tightly over the heater housing, thus allowing for air to be drawn into the vent system where the two kits match up. And thus the air was not being pulled through the evapo coils. I found they had not moved the large electrical cable that is attached to the body above the glove box. This large cable is held in place with metal "fingers" that wrap around it. The fingers must be opened, and the cable must be pushed aside to allow the evapo unit clearance to go up and match against the heater box. The matching area must be sealed well with something, not duct tape which will dry out. A good "rope" of sticky caulk works. Additionally, the adjustment pully on the belt for the compressor would "bottom" out on the bracket not allowing proper tightning. After these issues were fixed, I had good air. Not great of course. It takes some time to bring the temp down. this is in 89-93 deg weather with lots of humidity. 100 plus a lot of sun is another story. I always used a cover in Texas, which greatly reduced the heat inside, and allowed for quicker cool downs. I will try the honda blower motor someday as well. Good luck

I have used two putty knives, one on each side of the clips. Yet, this is not the most problematic issue. The issue is getting the window crank off and then sometimes harder getting it on. The crank pin clip can be a pain. Use care. Maybe gets some help in holding the panel in and away so you can remove the clip with what ever works for you. I have used a tool that is made for brake shoe springs. Is like an awl, that has a 90deg turn in it. that gets it off, getting it one is up to you. The panel lifts up to clear the window opening after releaseing all the clips that go into the door holes.' PS, if there is still a clear vinyl over the door skin, heat the adhesive and carefully remove the plastic. Save it. Use it again. It seals the cold air from entering the car and keeps moisture off the door panel, etc.

Idividuals interested in the engineering design for safe installation of seat belts should be directed to the SCCA Sports Car Club of America GCR General Competition Regulations. Of particular note is the angle from horizontal that a harness is to be mounted. As a previous writer stated, you don't want a compression force on your spine. you want to be held back, not down by that belt. Also, the lap belt is to be mounted at a 45deg to the floor, and the bolts are to be with forces in sheer, not a tension force. ie trying to break the bolt off, not pull it out. This is not relevant to use for Solo II, where you are looking for something to hold you in place. But, for safety issues all this stuff is relevant. As a matter of fact, the SCCA magazine, SportsCar, latest issue July, addresses belts. They have found significant degredation of belts from UV, with upwards of 50% decrease in effectiveness in ONE year. There is now going to be age of belt system rules in the future. Go to SCCA.org and click on what ever gets you the GCR.

Some more insight. Your picture shows louvers added to the hatch. That is MORE weight to be held up. I have a BRE spoiler that added more weight. When I added the weight the cylinder would barely hold the weight and after about ?? a year it wouldn't do any holding. That was 1973-1974. I think you would have to do considerable modification to any non standard cylinder, at the connections, to get a fit. I just use a wood dowel that I place between strut and opening. I have seen another type of modification that is a sort of thumb screw/set screw on a nut that is cut on one side and slipped on the strut rod. Anyway, I don't hold out much hope in getting a "single" strut to hold the added weight we both have. A double strut would require welding attachment points on the other side of the body and strut.

Please add to this request, the following: Do you know of white colored dye that would work on the enterior quilted vinyl of my 72 Z?? Evidently the glue has come through and given a brown stain to the trans tunnel cover. Lots of spots/splotches. What ever I use must be a good match and hold up for years. This is the original interior. Thanks

You only need one colortune device! Use on one carb at a time to set mixture. That is to say put in the #2 cylinder, adjust the mixture nut on the bottom of the carb, remove and put in #5 and do the adjust. Then set the idle and balance with the unisyn on the face of the velocity stacks of the carbs. Then use the colortune again to check mixture, etc. etc.

The colortune is used in the # 2 and @ 5 cyclinder in place of the regular plug. These are the "center" cylinders that are fed by each of the carbs, thus they would have the "ideal" mixture that is being spread to three cylinders. The goal is to get a mixture that is ideal. The "ideal" would burn a certain color. there should be a color chart with the tool. The thought is there would be a slightly different mixture to the "end" cylinders, the ones that are farther from the carb along the path of the intake runners. Again, set the colotune/mixture, then the balance/unisyn, then the mixture then the balance. They influence each other somewhat, thus the repetition. Years ago, we also used a set of wire deals that were bent at 90deg and faced each other.They fit into the top of the carb after removeing the oil cap. As the throttle was opened, you watched the wires to see them move in unisyn as they rode on top of the carb piston. The unisyn air flow does this at idle, but does not show the movement of the carb pistons together under various throttle openings..... whatever. good luck

My clock works, and is 31 years old. Was repaired in 1982-3. Runs great, just gains about 15-20 minutes a day. It sat long enough this time to be only 43 minutes LATE this am. that is 23hours and 17 minutes fast actually.

My 10-71 has a lever along the seat bottom! And it has webbing which I have replaced with new. The old webbing looked like it had been torched. Twisted, with total shrinkage into a narrow band at some point on some webs?? It wasn't really holding up the seat bottom!??

THe rivets are hollow and the tube that sticks through the material is "split" and spread out with about 6 to 8 thin pieces of metal reaching out from the hollow center of the rivet. I used an box cutter knife with a sharp blade to lift these "fingers" up somewhat. Then I carefully brought them together in the middle with screw driver and needle nose pliers. To replace make adequate holes in the new material and spread out the fingers again after pushing the rivet through. You will have an as original job, with an original feel to the seat bottom. One other thing I did was get some heavy clear vinyl and make larger vinyl shields for the seat back release arm area. The original shields are too small to protect the seat bottom tearing when a fat A#s pushes the vinyl into the release lever. You have to take the back off from the bottom seat. This requires a special tool. It is a type of screw driver that can be made to turn left or right and is struck by a hammer. The blow causes a cam inside to turn the screw driver bit while the bit is forced into the screw head. This loosens the very large and very tight screws that hold the mechanism together. A cool tool that is also used to retighten those screws. All this is covered in the How to Restore your Datsun book. A MUST have for fixing your Z.

For others, or for the initiator of this thread... I have seen a recommendation to use dry ice to get undercoat off. Apply it to the inside of the car where it can set without having to hold it to the surface. When the undercoat/tar is well cooled, it will chip off readily per the writer. I believe GrassRoots Motorsports had this article??? Becareful of getting a "burn" freezing your skin. It will happen "rightnow". Don't ask.

Excuse me I'm wrong. The carpet extends to the seat's rear mount "bar". There is no carpet "under" the seat, only the horse hair insulation. As you recognize there is great opportunity to insulate the early Z for sound and temperature. This effort adds weight that later models gained as the car transformed towards the GT and away from sport. Life is a series of decisions about tradeoffs. Quieter or heaver, or a little of each.

The carpet extends under the seat. There is the "horse hair" insullation pad that is the same size and shape that is under it. They look like fat "T" shapes, with a notch cut for the rear fender well.

Be sure and rebuild the webbing under the seat when doing any other work. Get the kit offered my MSA or VB. The rubber stuff is called Pirelli webbing. I guess for the tire maker. Anyway, carefully take off the original rivets and use them over again instead of using hog rings. Fresh webbing will go a long way in restoring the comfort of the seats. Also, put some extra padding into the back to give some lumbar support. There is none originally.

My air pump is connected and works. I have replaced two of the valves in the air injection system,some hoses, and replaced the airpump as the old one rusted up due to my extended storage of car. My car runs as clean and strong as new. Over all the 31 years of ownership I new saw someone beat me in an autocross because they took of some part of their polution system. There were other reasons. Given all that, the car still is dirty enough to kill you in a garage. My new SVT Focus, and other modern cars, burn so clean you can't event use them for the final solution in a closed garage. Those who like and respect older cars should respect that to make them "better" doesn't mean pollute more. My SVT Focus will run rings around my Z, and do it almost pollution free. And now I read on the web young guys yanging off the catalyst, for what purpose? I can debate this issue, but if you are of a mind to call names, if that is your best effort at rational thought, then I would not be spending my time with any expectation of communication would I. Yes the richness does create more pollution, but the other controls mitigate that to a great extent. Given that the pollution would probably not be any more than a round top, the point is mute. A previous writer clearly has stated and has experience in rebuild of flat top that are set to produce good results. Yes I do recycle, maintain my car, don't dump trash, litter, etc. And I can have some sense that those who do are poor citizens who abuse the opportunity to reside in a free society. Go visit Singapoor, have a good time.

I totally disagree with any effort to remove or disable the pollution control devices. This type of action is what gets the legislature in various states chasing after us old cars, with this and that law, to put us off the streets. The flat tops have a bad reputation because in 1974 no manufacture had the ability or skill to make an engine run well and meet the polution rules. These carb were their feable but best effort to meet the restrictions. If you rebuild a carb and make some necessary adjustments, then they will run rich enough to solve the TOO lean problem that plagued them when new. 1974-76 was a dark time in automobile history with terrible running vehicles. Small changes to the system can cure this problem, and removing all the controls or disabling them is not only illegal but poor citizenship. We should all strive to have strong running cars that pollute as little as possible. Work the system. People change to round tops because these are more flexable and adjustable carbs at face value. The problem you have is finding the people who can do the key adjustment during rebuild that will make the flat top do the job.

I have had a 2.5in exhaust and muffler for 25 years and been very happy with the flow and sound. Loud sweet Jaguar sound under load and high rpm but not too, if you know what I mean. It is the one that is mandrel bent from MSA I think. Any way, my real point is use a large capacitly 2.5 in inlet/outlet muffler for a turbocharged application. These have minimum restrictions because the turbo quiets the exhaust and therefore the muffler doesn't need to do much quieting. Use one from any muffler shop and ask for something like a turbo GM product such as the Buick Gran Sport, etc. Check the size that will fit in the stock area of the left rear fender area next to the fuel tank. I am assuming here you are talking early Z. Question. Why does the pipe "snake through the suspension" The original exhaust and mine now as well, travels under the car all the way to the rear. Remove Three bolts off the manifold, and three hangers, and the system drops to the ground! Slide it out and put a new one under and bolt up.

My previous experience with overheat on my 72 was due to crap in the radiator core. Having it "boiled" out did the deed. My overheat was at highway speed however. Above 70mph when the heat being generated was greater and the flow to cool the water was being restricted. Attention!! New thermostates can be bad. They are cheaply made with poor QC. Also, a system may NOT cool well without a thermo installed. Water can flow TOO fast through the system not gathering enough heat from the engine and not give off sufficient BTU to the airflow, and thus retain too much heat in the engine. Check any thermo that is questioned with an acurate thermometer in hot water. Bring the water temp up gradually and observe the action. Remember the opening is small, and can be difficult to detect. If you live where anti freeze is not needed try Red Lines water wetter. Racers swear by it reducing operating temps.

Yes You want to acquire the video from ztherapy.com. It is detailed and complete. Remember, the engine must itself be in tune to tune the SU's. Start with a good valve adjustment, then plugs, points, timeing. Then set the mixture of the needles, after checking the chokes release freely. All this is done with the air filter removed along with the filter cover. THE ADJUSTING OF THE SU'S IS A REPETATIVE PROCESS. That is to say, you gradually close in on a fine tune. Consider getting a color tune device/ and/or use a sensor in the tailpipe for air fuel mixture. buy a book covering this procedure, take notes when viewing the video tape of Ztherapy. Good luck. Lowell

You have to determine what you want. A "sag" spring is the best of both worlds in some ways. A lowered look with little wheel well space, along with a moderate ride. Use good shocks, and you should have a really nice ride. Not the thing for the track or Solo, but if that is what you want then get the performance stuff, and bounce along the road. Get a good kidney belt.

You can change the camber with lowered car but will need to replace some of the bushings with adjustable ones that have cam type action. If you WANT to keep the lowered look, change the bushings. The shocks that won't work with a lowered car must "bottom out" due to the reduced stroke length of the piston. IF the bump stop is maintained and is servicable, then I don't see how the shock will bottom out though?? You could find original springs from someone who wanted to lower their car. Advertise. Hope this helps.

I would stay with stock springs. Any shorter spring will bring an equal part harsh ride with quicker handling. Suitable for track days or really serious Autocross use. I would go for an externally adjustable shock. Set as full soft for normal use. Set progressively firmer for a sporty response. They cost $$, but I have used internally adjustable Koni's, they had to be removed to adjust, and was reasonably satisfied with the payoff. The replacement of front and rear anti sway bars to larger diameter will get the best improvement in cornering/handling with the least increase in normal harshness. There should be no increase in harshness over surfaces where both wheels operate together, such as pavement spacing in cement. And I would avoid the plastic bushings unless your's is to be for the track. New rubber will handle ok and produce a good ride. The daily use on rough roads using solid bushings will gradually crack/damage the body. It is just a matter of time.

Americans are free to speak. They are NOT free to demonstrate illegaly. So why are demonstrators almost always breaking the law in some why, to get the attention they want/need to get the news to cover them. Is this a moral and correct thing to do? They are NOT free to block my path, stop traffic, etc. AND, it is the free news coverage, with staged antics that is a real pain in the A$%^. This nation is at war. Congressional approval of the chief executives use of the military to disarm a threating murder.

Ignoring the details of what is exactly wrong with this car, consider the fact that it sat for three years with no preservation. And, that there was a problem with it at that time. This would only be a headach for any owner, leading to a complete tear down for dianosis, and then a money hole. P.S. You need to run a leak down test now. That is done by putting compressed air to one cylinder at a time and examining for where the air leaks. Into the next cylinder, headgasket, out the carb/intake valve, out the exhaust/exhaust valve, into the radiator/headgasket, etc. If you do this very carefully, you will know a lot more about the situation. Best of luck.

OK I'll ask the question who is CCK. How to contact and order some wheels. What's the price for 17x7 4 bolts. with 108 circle. and 49-43mm offset.