ZCCOR#109

What you are doing is a process of elimination. The blower SHOULD work if there is electical power to it. The switch, that has three positions, sends various amounts of power to the motor which allows it to turn at various speeds. So, if you check the wire going to the motor, and there is no power, then either the switch or fuse are not allowing power to flow. (Also, the ignition switch has to be on to allow power to the three position fan switch of course.) New fuses can have manufacturing defects and blow early in their life when new so check them again. If you are getting electric current to your test equipment with the fan switch on to one of its on positions, then the motor is not responding to that current. Deduction is the motor is broken. You can further test by making a test wire of considerable length and run straight from the battery or another hot wire to the blower motor and see if it runs. A final test is to include a separate wire for the ground in the remote possibility that it is broken and is not grounding the motor to close the circuit. if there is no current going to the motor with the fan switch on, then the switch is bad, or the wire is broken. But a broken wire is a very remote situration. If the power wire insulation gets frayed and "grounds out" then the fuse will blow and that is another task to identify where the wire failure is and replace. Can't imagine this situation unless someone has been working under the dash cuting wires, etc. etc. good luck

Yes, what you want to do is see if there is current running to the blower motor. to test find the two electrical wires going to the fan moter. One is a ground, black and the other the positive (hot) wire. Pull the connectors apart for the hot wire, and using a test light connect one end to the hot wire and the other to a ground (steel of the dash etc.) the test light should light if there is current being sent to the motor. (don't connect to the wires attached to the motor as they don't have current once you have disconnected them from the current) If you don't have a test light get one it is a very valuable tool. You of course must have the ignition switch turned on. Have you checked all the fuses already?

Huh??? So you are saying the end that is inside the car unscrews? Has a lock nut on there? The end in the engine compartment doesn't unscrew, correct. So, like was stated above, can't I pop it off both ends and remove to undo the nut etc. i.e. it will fit through the firewall hole.

How do I get the new boot on? Does the plastic end piece screw off the rod? If not does the bood slip over the plastic end piece?

And, you will never find all the pins, they go to some great Pin place we are not allowed to enter. thus, you will need a few more replacements.

One more detail. The large screws that hold the back and bottom to the hinges are not going to loosen easily. You will need a special tool for loosening them. The tool has a screw driver philips head bit and you strike the rear of the tool with a hammer. The inside of the tool his a cam that transfers the hammer blow into a twist of the philips head. Anyway that is what I needed to get mine loose. The other detail is have strong forearms to tug and pull. good luck

Here are a couple of photo's Bobby Allison's BRE 510, Carl Beck's BRE Baja and Gerry Mason's kBRE #3, BRE F5000 driven by John Morton.

Solved!! I removed the nut, and repositioned the wire loop and plastic retainer paying particular attention to the fit of the sheet metal "U" with respect to the metal fingers on the tac that the "U" matches. The parts must have not matted up well. Tac works fine now. WHEW. "Life is all about the details"

Got my ticket to the Thursday Dinner with BRE folks thisTuesday. Havn't ordered any race tickets yet. Nice ticket, sort of a laminated credit card sized document.

This situation would result if the Ballast resister is bad. The electrical system bypasses the Ballast resister under start for full voltage, but as soon as you release the key to the run position the ballast resister is to be in the circuits reducing the voltage. If the ballast resister is not flowing current you loose ignition voltage to the system/plugs.

I think your MSD may have had a module that attaches to the rear of the tach in place of the original wire loop. Look at the back of the tach to see what the situation is. Remove the two wing nuts that hold the tach in the dash. do that by reaching around and up under the dash from the right side of the steering wheel. Ease the tach out of the hole and if there is resistence it may be a wire is holding it up. look for non standard ties or tape holding those wires. the tach will only come out about an inch and 1/2 clear of the front of the dash so you have to tilt the tach to the right side to see the rear. The stock tach set up has a white wire going to the tach that is made into a loop through a small clear plastic cube. That cube has a hole in it that the small stud from the tach goes through. Covering the plastic cube and held on with a very small nut is a "U" shaped piece of sheet steel. The "U" goes into two slots in the rear of the tach. If there has been an after market item attached there for the MSD etc. then it has to be removed and the orginal loop installed. Good luck

Ok, today I removed the Capacitive Discharge system I install 37 years ago. (1972 240Z) Re-established the stock wiring on the coil etc. Car started ok! yea. BUT The tach doesn't work well. It works to about 3,000rpm, but jumps around above that. Also, when throttle is closed the tach drops to zero immediately and bounces up and down before settling down. The CD system had a wire coil behind the tach that replaced the stock wire, that of course was removed. When removing the CD system I reinstalled the white wire loop back on the tach. So what do you think is the problem?

Thanks, However, the tach calibration was never changed for the CD system. Shouldn''t require a change/adjustment when going back to the original wire loop should it? Could the ballast resister be bad. The resister is certainly in line with the input to the tach. What do you all think?

Thanks, The thing is, the wire loop is established within a plastic block that has only one orientation. There is a hole in the plastic block for the stud, and the plastic block has a small protrusion that matches a small hole in the sheet metal "U". Thus there is only one way to attach the loop and one loop is all that is made by the factory.

Ok, today I removed the Capacitive Discharge system I install 37 years ago. (1972 240Z) Re-established the stock wiring on the coil etc. Car started ok! yea. BUT The tach doesn't work well. It works to about 3,000rpm, but jumps around above that. Also, when throttle is closed the tach drops to zero immediately and bounces up and down before settling down. The CD system had a wire coil behind the tach that replaced the stock wire, that of course was removed. When removing the CD system I reinstalled the white wire loop back on the tach. So what do you think is the problem?

I will be attending. Someone may count my car for their club numbers purposes. This will be a 40th reunion of sorts as I attended the 1970 Runoffs during my mid-tour leave from Korea. Returned stateside in May 71, ordered a Z car, received the car Jan 3 72, and went to the 1972 races with it. See you Thursday night at the dinner.

How about some updates? I've purchased my ticket for the Thursday night dinner event where many of the BRE principals are to attend. I'm excited already. I attended the 1970 Run Offs at Road Atlanta while on mid-tour leave from the Republic of Korea, and then the 1972 race with my new Z car. It still has some Georga Clay up there above the muffler. Rain and mud, Road Atlanta! Went to the Group 44 reunion/Mitty last year as a tribute to my brother who race a D Production TR4 against the Group 44 & BRE guys and in the late 60's. Quote: "John Morton didn't pass me twice!" Russ.

If you want AC then you need to go with R134. (NOTE: Z cars are hot inside as there is a lot of glass, and even with a good vent system you will swim on the vinyl seats.) You should replace everything of the R12 system except possibly the evaporator which may be a custom fit to your fan box, mine was. a source for parts and pieces is Vintage Air in Texas. Get one of their catalogs and read about the differences in R12 and R134 systems requirements. http://www.vintageair.com/ This is what I did to replace the aftermarket AC I had installed in 1973. I had a radiator shop replace the evaporators fittings with the 134 o ring type, measured all the hoses and ordered the hoses and fitting material, condensor, rotory compressor, dryer, etc. from Vintageair. The hose fittings can be crimped onto the bulk hose that you bought from Vintage Air by a NAPA store, requires a particular type of crimping. I just put everything back to its original places essentially. I did have to get an adapter to fit the new Sanden rotory compressor to the York compressor mount that attaches to the engine. That said, if there are complete kits available for your model that are R134 I would go with that.

The question now is what hardware is required to mount the retractor in the floor depression? Does the recommended belt set retractor fit in that depression? My 1972 has the belt bolted to the rocker panel z(outboard lap portion) and roof (cross chest). It would seem like the roadster mounting of the retractor on the roof would place that "lump" close to your head??

OK! In summery,..... Who has the best retractable set that will go into my 1972 Z? I want the short belt to have a "sleave" to keep it off the floor, and the retractable to hook up on the roof like the existing fixed belt. I'm all ears folks.

Hey folks Just got through with this upgrade. THANKS Dogma for the info, great stuff. I bought a generic part from Autozone, $40 with my neighbors tech discount. Mated with a new Honda fan. Made a new gasket and used the outer half of the Z's bolt grommets to bold in to place. Interesting detail from this experience follows: As you may or may not know, squirrel cage fans have a curve to the blade. And, the fan housing is built for the fan to turn a specific way such that the air is trapped in certain areas and expelled in a specific direction. The Z car fan has the curves in the opposite direction to the Honda blades, yet the Honda set up in a Z has to turn the same direction as the Z car to move the air through the housing. I determined this by wiring my set up for the "correct" direction of the Honda blades. Verrrrryyy little air moving. Using a set of jumper wires reverse the motors direction of turn and ...lots of air even though the "fan" is turning in the wrong direction for the blade curves. The housing configuration rules. So, what would we get if the Honda fan blades were curved the "correct" was for our usage? Woaahh. I would like to think a real Kansas storm. :-) Now, will some one come up with a replacement fan cage that will have the correct curve on the blades!

However, you have a good bit of crud in that tank. Better look after it or a similar problem will return. The 2 Liter I had 30 years ago had so much junk in the tank it would starve the engine. The vacum would hold the rust scale against the pick up opening on the tube inside the tank. Fuel would flow again after pulling off the fuel line thus breaking the vacum and allowing the rust scale to fall off the inlet. This only happened under full throttle. Solution was a full steam cleaning of the tank. Good luck.

Everyone maintaining an old Z needs the "How to Restore your Z" book in there it leads you through working the seats over, as well as almost everyother fix on the car. If you want to separate the bottom from back, it takes a special tool that is in impact screw driver to loosen the large screw on the hinge where it attaches to the ? // back. IT is a screw driver that you hit on the end, which takes that force and turns the tip. The rest of the effort is just taking off the hog rings, loosing the strings, and working the matterial off. I thought my foam was bad, but it was the "Pa rrelli webbing" that was toast. Don't use something like seat belt material in lieu of the webbing as it will not give and put too much force on the foam. good luck

I just bought generic brake line you find in any auto parts store like NAPA, and bent using a small tube bender and hands. Cost wasn't much, but don't remember. The issue for the original "s" tube is the curve you have to make is smaller than the tube bending tool will fit. I don't know the length I bought, but guess about 8 inches. I just made a single "loop" as I recall rather than a very tight S curve. This brake tube line goes from the caliper to the brake hose, meeting at the fitting station on the strut. the hose of course then connects to the brake line on the body at the fitting station on the "frame" rail. I just thought I would mention that when I did the conversion bending the tube was the issue for me.

the calipers require you to very tightly rebend the short brake line that goes from caliper to flex hose. Very easy to cause a kink. i bought longer brake lines and made a larger "loop" rather than tighten the "s" bend.