ZCCOR#109

maybe a spoiler will pull things further to the rear, that is what they are suppose to do. what about the firewall? do you have an exhaust leak from the engine manifold area that is leaking through the firewall?

it covers and stops rust, does not get rid of it. get rid means cut out or sand blast

Z tharapy hose is suspose to be very high silican content, made to original spec. The hose is a special hard t find dia too I think anyway, I put theirs on and had no issues now for about 4 years. Mine were original that failed in 2003-4

ball joints install via a tapered threaded bolt being pulled into a tapered hole. Thus, when you take the nut off the balljoint, it has to be "released" from the hub/spindle. The "pickle fork" is one tool to do this with, but it is a wedge that will tear up the rubber on the ball joint and maybe other things. They sell a "puller" type tool that will do this job as well. Check the Z parts catalogs for it. And, expert mechanics will give the hub area a resounding wack with a big hammer, which can distort the "hole" and pop the tapered side of the balljoint assembly out of the hole. Another risk of damage. Keys are a well supported car with jack stands. When you are wrestling and such, it nice to have the 1$%^ lbs well supported. What is the condition of your other suspension bushings? The compresion rod bushing, steering rack bushings, lower arm bushing, strut upper "bearing"? etc. All influence the movement around and about the correct paths of motion. Good luck

A definite on the neverseize. I put it on in 1973, after a considerable struggle to get 1 year old suspension apart for Koni's Pulled pins in 1994, piece of cake. I would put neverseize on any suspension bolt, as long as you are torqueing to spec. A little goes a looooonge way.

excellent thanks, My goodness man, you've been driving on the wrong side of the road in the passengers seat!

#1 Gotta bleed brakes on a regular basis, full bleeding, that is a replacement of all the fluid. #2 synthetic helps, but is not a cure all, as water still can get in the system, it just doesn't MIX with the synthetic, it stays separate to cause rust. #3 The flare nut wrench mentioned is a must for brake work. I believe it is a 10mm for the 240Z. This type wrench is a "box" end type, with a "cut out" made in one side so you can slip it over the metal brake line and onto the nut. Thus, you have a wrench touching the flare nut surface on five of six sides. You may be able to salvage this. First buy the correct wrench. Then buy a small fine cross cut file. Try the wrench first, if it won't go on the nut, then file each side of the nut slightly to take off the burr that has formed. Don't take off much, and do it in steps trying the wrench each time to see if the wrench will slip on. ALSO, use some wd40 or similar fluid on the threads and peck with a small hammer on the area to vibrate the wd40 into the tread area. BE SURE you are trying to turn the nut the correct direction. If it moves a little, retighten slightly, going back and forth to loosen the rust/corrosion. Tease it out/loose is what I'm saying. You will want to replace the line probably if the nut is damaged much. That is a trying thing, as there are some tight bends to duplicate, or buy a replacement factory item. The wheel cylinders are aluminum, and I don't believe can be honed and rebuildt with a kit. I think you will have to buy new. pitting of the surface will not allow new rubber to seal. Some Corvette owners have an issue with front calipers corroding terribly, and they have an after market supplier that bores out the cylinder and sleaves with stainless. $$$$, but last a long time. Maybe someday we will have such support? good luck

I found out that a painter can blend within a panel better than paint an entire panel. They get a better match. they also can use the spectrascope tools that examine the existing color and tell them what to mix to get a match. Of course the painter has a lot to do with the final results as to gloss and depth etc.

The slot is to prevent binding. looks like someone wanted to bind it or that bolt just fell there. the vacum? but certainly served a purpose. what is connected? maybe a throttle control, i.e. one that retains throttle opening for a time to reduce emissions.

Well there is one certainty, they never stopped a parking lot rub,dent,ding. All the damage to the Z's doors are BELOW the ridge of the body work. to be effective the trim would have to run 12 inches below that line. A "door ding stopper" was put on many a 70's and 80's car by factory and aftermarket. Now that cars are a bit smaller, and I think SUV's allow for easier entry, there seems to be way less door dings. I just havn't gotten that many with my 2002 SVT Focus. Just one significant mash. Maybe it is the reduction in two door monsters like Thunderbirds, where the barn doors would take out NASCAR bars if they were in place. Lord knows it is not the lessor number of fat asses climbing out of their cars wanging away on the neighboring cars paint. Oh, have I gone on toooo much?

mine are stacked on each other I think, at least there are two pieces for the flashing unit I had slow signals or no signals it was NOT the flasher it was burned out bulbs. ALL, yes ALL the bulbs must be A OK for the flashing system to work correctly according to my experience on my 72 your milage may vary

I got some that have 240Z on them. They are nice because there is/are ridges sewn in that keep a tool from disappearing. The matress pad, etc. doesn't do it for staying put, holding/blocking fluids, etc.

The requirement to go to a licenced tech for R12 is to avoid the owner just adding R12 to a system to have it leak out again. A good tech will evacuate the system saving the R12. Run a vacuum test for 20 to 30 minutes to see if it will hold said vacuum. If not they can run a test gas and test for the leak. As said above, replacement of o ring, hose, etc. is relatively inexpensive compared to buying the gas. Also, don't put the 134 in the system. The molocules are much smaller and will leak out of the R12 system hoses, connections, etc. You could of course convert to a 134 system of completely new components acquired from someone like Vintage Air of Texas. A $$$ proposition, but one that would last for years and be very maintainable. its your $$. PS I converted to 134 complete system due to York compressor droping its oil on the garage floor. Good luck.

be sure that ALL the bulbs are working, test them, clean contacts, etc. My 72's wouldn't flash at all because a bulb was out. New bulb and they flash. Normally you would think the system would "blink" flash on the good bulbs, i.e. the front or rear, and you could readily see a bad bulb on the other endo fo the car that wasn't working. NOT SO with a 72 model. good luck

There may be one of several issues here one I have seen/read about is the clutch disk rusting to the flywheel/and/or pressure plate. The other is the hydrolics going bad/dry/air in lines. So, flush the master cylinder and slave cylinder\ with new fluid. Get a friend to push the clutch pedal while you open and close the bleeder valves. Observe the slave cylinder moving the clutch release lever on the side of the bell housing. If it does, then the issue would seem to be in the clutch itself. Maybe the return springs on the clutch pedal, or the slave cylinder are missing or broken. crawl under the dash and car to observe

Look at the background of the photo's You may not even be able to get a vehicle close enough to recover this vehicle. Looks like the seller is holding some cards that he is not showing?? If you were in the area, it would be hard to not go look at this. Could be a sour or sweet deal.

There is a BRG, and I know it when I see it. It is on a British sportscar, and it is the color green, and the car is racing.

pull all the connections apart and lub them. Those nylon balls need lubing, especially if you clean the engine compartment with degreeser/whatever. Check under the dash for connections as well. Move each piece separately when disconnected checking for friction. The device on the firewall, that is a large pin with a spindle on it that turns needs to come apart and be lubed.

Well, I'll shorten my Z acquisition story to this. In 1972 my wife and I actually had a CHOICE from 5,yes five, 5 Z's that were delivered to the dealer. We chose the metalic blue with white interior over, red/white, green/tan,yellow/black,orange/black. Never regretted it!

Well, I'll shorten my Z acquisition story to this. In 1972 my wife and I actually had a CHOICE from 5,yes five, 5 Z's that were delivered to the dealer. We chose the metalic blue with white interior over, red/white, green/tan,yellow/black,orange/black. Never regretted it!

Well..... Now that it is out, be sure to put Neverseize (sp) on it when it goes back in. Mine were difficult to remove in 1973-4 after just two years of residence down on the road. But in 94 they came out like a champ because of the neverseize.

Some related facts. In Central Ohio, a man returned to the scene with his shot gun and killed one of the perps. He fired into the corn field and a pellet went into the fellows heart! The perps were Amish young people, teens and young 20's, hiding in the corn field throwing tomatoes at cars as had been a fall tradition of sorts. Turns out the man actually knew the person he killed. He plead it out to ??manslauter I think. Then just west of Columbus, about 4 years ago, a youth threw a rock off an overpass and seriouly injured a minister. The minister is blind now. The youth was caught, don't know the consequences. Just the facts.

I'll say this, I painted my 71 Toyota Corolla a bright yellow while in Okinawa z(1976), and an American couple chased me down when they saw the for sale sign and bought the car on the side of highway one between Machiminata and Kadina. :-) DougN's color is outstanding on the Z. So, that's my story and I'm stick'in to it.

Here is my question. After many years of no lead, what is the consensus now on the need to use a lead substiture in the fuel for my 72 original engine? Was all the scare about needing lead for seat lubrication correct? I did an additive for a number of years but have gotten away from it lately. Any hard facts? experiences? What say you? AND why.

I think kmack has some good advice. Random thoughts. If blasting think everything/results out. One issue is the removal of sand from hidden areas, cracks and crevices. It will be everywhere, including your A%^. You can make a "booth" for blasting by using metal tubing from electrical conduit. Not too expensive. Hange from ceiling and other places making a box around the car, then hang the plastic mentioned by kmack. Cover the top of this w/plastic as well. This allows you to retain storage, etc. around the perimeter of the space. You have a lot of control over the effect of the media by how close you hold the "gun" from the work. The "finish" of the metal will be anthing but smooth, and require a good fill paint to cover that. Any method of removing paint is "messy" stripper, media, sanding, lots of work. The media blasting insures a clean down to bare metal where as stripping leaves rust if it is there, as does sanding. If you are just trying to get a clean smooth surface to begin painting on, and the original paint is sound, then it would seem that sanding off the top layer of "junk" paint would be your best solution. The original primer and a layer of finish paint is good for a base as long as you use a good sealer that adheres to start the finished job. Good luck