ZCCOR#109

well, steal wool will clean it up, use brasso as a lube. This will actually further damage the surface, although it will look better. HOWEVER, it will rust up/deteriorate when exposed to moisture. Face it, if pitted, the chrome is gone. time to have a redo for the long term

try a hair dryer or heat gun. fasten one side then have other hands heat and pull/push to get the other end in place. There is a lot of flex in that thing.

Dent Wizzard is a franchise that does in shop and visits dealers doing dent removal with out "body work and paint" Used them three times with awsome results. They can NOT fix some things, and they will be up front about it.

I think it is the pads and rotor surface. it sounds like there is rust on the rotor, or the pads are dirty, etc. remove the pads and sand lightly with emry paper on a flat surface. inspect the rotors for smooth surface. you pedal goes down when the car starts, due to the action of the power brake booster coming into play. you should have a firm pedal at engine idle, that DOES NOT GRADUALLY go down.. If it does the power booster may be leaking.

I am a grumpy old man, you helped make me that way. I didn't come to the club that way. Think about it. If you were there at the tour i'm wrong, but I'm not thinking so. You know about the event but you weren't there. All of what you have written has some truth to it. The part you left out is the annual plans of events that never would have a solo event on it. The fact that the annual plan was made with little member input. I never was asked if you put an event on the schedule would I make it happen. It was if you want such an event do it. There is one heck of a difference. All we had to do is piggy back on any number of events and then YOU support it. Good luck.

Have a good time. I'm sure lots of work has gone into the event. You forget that I set up the first tour in the fall, and the president didn't even attend after insisting that it be in the fall not the spring. I had set one up in the spring and Jim cancelled it because of his personal commitment to the cincy club, etc. Still, the club has yet to support performance events, your comment withstanding. Yes, " if you want one do it yourself", there will be no support from the club". Is what it amounts to. Which really means that there will be no yearly calander of events listing such a thing. There are quite a few 350Z's at the solo II, but I don't bother talking to them anymore about ZROC, because the club is not something they might be interested in. I am an enthusiast, original owner, rallied, Solo'd, autocrossed, and track day'd my 240Z. Past President of the Okinawa Sports Car Club, long time menber of the SCCA. I can clearly state, I was given NO support by the ZROC to establish a performance event for the club. It is easy to use an excuse that I was tolk "if you want it done do it yourself". That is NO excuse for the lack of support from the club.

I appreciate you made some effort for this event. What about all the other months and years. That is my reference point. As you know I have been an advocate, but I never was told the club would promote an event of any nature. It was always if someone else can make it happen fine, but you never put your support behind an event. PS. Your comment about my performance at the Solo II program is exactly what I would expect. Your were a one and out, even with two Z cars. My offer still stands. See you on the course, where ever. I think I'm the one with class win trophys, and season championship place trophys.

No, that is not the way it works in the club and you know it. The club has had multiple opportunities to advertise/support and encourage by putting on the calander such events. It just won't do it. It is all about the leadership supporting such events and encouraging participation. And, if members really don't want anything to do with same, then they just won't attend. However, the leadership won't support and promote them. So who knows for sure? No one else but the leadership has the ability to put such events on the calander and promote interest. "The club membership interest is a direct reflection of what the club is doing and how it is run" There are multiple opportunities to piggy back on other clubs events.

<Please think back (old timers are at an advantage here) about all the "classic" race tracks that the FIA/F1 Drivers Association/Others have insisted that needed chicanes to be used again for racing. Spa, LeMans, Monza, Daytona, and now turn one at Indy.> Very good point. As I stated, you do what it takes to put on the show. FIA...F1 FAILED!!! let the court room confrontation commence.

It is racing without the fans, but it "don't make any money" so we have fans. If the show is crappy, there won't be any fans. F1 and FIA will figure this out in the US next year. NASCAR has figured it out. The rules are for the show. So what if half the field is out. So what if I don't ever go. I don't go to Indy at all any more because they don't race in the rain except F1, and I'm not wasting my time to come home again because it rained. Been there and done that. I'll take showroom stock in the rain at Mid Ohio any day over Indy.

Big B owns the show, he make the $, then he has to take responsibility. Yes the tires failed. Then the ringmaster has to do something, cause the "show must go on". It didn't. B E is an A$%, the whole world knows it, and T George is his twin. If you want to see real competition and real racing, go to the "Run-0ffs" in September. three days, 29 races, 29 champions. Get close to the action, walk the padock free, talk to the drivers and mechanics, all for $30. See ya at Mid Ohio.

Your add is all about performance and competition, yet there is no performance competition. its all shine and show. Where is the Solo II, or/and track day. Come on ZROC don't just be 'wanabe's get involved in the performance world.

Well, as was suggested on another site, just go to the Cleveland GP and register your choice of competition with your attendence at the most competitive road racing.

<On a side note HMSA (Historic Motor Sports Assoc) will let me run the car at Monterey next year!! Cant wait to get her out on the track!!> Very interesting!? The "vintage cars are 'from the era, or like those that raced' " Where as, "historic cars are ones that have racing history. I understood the two categories were distinct and the "folks" in the vintage/historic racing community were pretty particular over this issue. I would be happy to see your car on the track at speed, with a white TR6 just behind. I was there, watched them, went out an bought one, there has been no better manufactures competition. __________________

Saw it, liked it, wondered who has the blue 240Z. Was really curious as to the BRE car. It is beautiful! I saw the first national championship win at Road Atlanta in 1970. What do you do with the car beside show it?

Buy a subscription already. This used to be British Car, and Tim has taken it over and now focuses on the full range of vintage (sports) cars, to include vintage/historic racing. If your a "car guy" then this is another mag you should get. Even if they do F&*(K up a spread on the 240Z with a TR picture. aaaaaaaah I'm gonna have a big one Elizabeth!

You can use the cyl, but pay attention to the end play of the rod. The original cyl one has a spring that keeps the rod pulled in, and thus makes for free play at the rod/arm contact point. The cyl without the spring has no cast in hole to hook the return spring to. Thus the piston is not drawn back. This means the length of the rod has to be set to what came with the "new' cyl. Check the length of the adjustable rod, and set it back at this length when installing. there is no "free play" between the rod and the lever arm, but it is not under pressure either I recently did this job, along with a new master cyl. When through bleeding the system, insure there is some free travel at the bottom of the peddle throw, and check the clutch arm to insure it is not being pushed/under pressure when the hydrolic system is at rest.

Holy crap, Classic Motorsports new issue has an article on the 1970 era of sportscars. TR6, Volvo, MGB, 240Z etc. They screwed up and put a picture of the TR6 engine compartment on the parge with the 240Z. Cars were similar in color. Oh. I think I'm gonna die here. oh...oh...oh

Come to my house, its on file with the other articles of the day in my Z car file, next to the bill of sale. One of the reasons i'm an original owner

Since air bubbles want to go to the "highest" point they will want to stay in the master cylinder, compress, and preclude you having appropriate hydrolic pressure in the system. The master cylinger should have a bleed screw on the side, so you can bleed it now. Or, loosen one of the lines and bleed out the leak. open and close the "leak" as the peddle is pressed and released. Once the MC is bleed, start at the right rear, lf rear,rt ft, the finally lf front. This is done in order to bleed starting from the farthest point from the MC first. You are "chasing the air bubbles" out of the system.

If you have never touched your SU's you will have to watch the video, then work on the SU, then watch the video. Doing this several times. The video is totally detailed. The situation is there are a number of facts to understand and remember. You have to start somewhere. Unless you learn the carb, you will have to depend on others to adjust the carbs. That is problematic, there are few who do. It is just about a certainty that no Nissan dealer has a tech that can even say SU, let alone work on one. If you own a Z with SU's then you need to learn to adjust and do basic maintenance such as removing the piston, adjusting the needle, etc. and of course using a unisyn to balance the two. You only need to stand over the SU for a 30 minute period, trying to memorize the pieces. Then watch the video, then go work on the things. Good Luck.

Can't give you any real numbers. Just the fact that the smooth flow of air to the carb has been documented over the years with thousands of competitors and manufacturers developing the airhorns. You need to get ahold of and view Ztherapys video on the SU. It is an excellent document on repair/rebuild and adjustment of the carb. as it applies to the Datsun Z car.

Ztherapy has air horns for sale as I remember. You still are going to have a difficult time finding adequate air filters, or how to install them on naked airhorns.

You can change the filter element but do NOT change the "back plate" that bolts to the carbs. It includes the "air horns", the metal tubes that the air passes through on the way into the carbs. The air horns are essential to the efficient operation of SU type carbs. The backplate may be removed if separate airhorns are acquired and mounted. But then how do you mount the new air filter? Then,... Try fitting a remote cold air induction CAI up to the air filter box opening by some form of customizing. Then remove the orginal filter from the airbox, using the filtering of the CAI. Note, an air box is also a key in appropriate performance of SU type carbs. Air tends to pass by the airhorns during highway speeds, not "making the turn" into the airhorns. Just be sure that the lever on the air box is set open for summer, and you will get plenty of air to the carbs for a stock engine. If you have significant performance work inside the engine where it needs to "breath" a lot more air, then work the CAI deal by doing some engineering as previously stated. Good luck,

- There is no reason to warm the car up prior to driving away. Just adjust the choke as you drive depending on the engines requirements at the moment. DONT drive off with a full choke and leave it on for several minutes or forget it. Start driving after about 30 seconds, keep revs to 3500-4000. Once into second, push the choke in as far as the car says it likes it. This can usually be fully closed at 3k. When slowing, starting, changing gears, adjust more or less choke as the car tells you it needs. The 240 Z will warm really quickly when driven, given the proper thermostate and as lean a choke as possible. The idea is to use the LEAST amount of fuel into the engine. Leaner runs hotter, thus quicker warmup. All this above is temperature dependent, more choke when it is 25Deg outside. If you think you are "saving" the engine by letting it set under choke and idle you are mistaken. Raw gas in excess of what can be burned is running down the cylinder walls taking the lubrication off, allowing the rings to wear, and diluting the oil with fuel. Admittedly you can't drink morning coffee while changing gears, steering, and adjusting the choke, but this is the best way to treat your engine.