carrott

Bin it , looks like foreign object has been hitting piston on right , bent rods etc, decent blocks are pretty cheap over there . Just like a car rebuild , start with best possible platform .

Do not test drive on road if brakes dodgy , bad advice ! . I would check that the reaction disc behind the master cylinder to the booster has not slipped out when you had it out ,you will see it sitting at the bottom of the diaphram , I had a similar prob once with exact same symptoms . Worth a look.

The only head to use is the P90 for turbo . Best shape chamber , plenty of development has gone into it . Use the dished pistons to promote better flame path , basically set it up as per factory as the P90 head is what was used as the factory head on turbo installs ,but go for forged pistons if using higher boost and put money into good turbo , injectors , management and intercooler . Keep it simple for years of reliable , fun motoring.

I would check that you have correct amount of free play at the slave cylinder and master cylinder , also if the ports are blocked in the master cylinder it can be slow returning and prevent it from returning and holding pressure against slave . Also make sure that the slave has the return spring fitted.

Maybe we all should run our stories past Allan before we submit them to the forum .... yeh right . Allan you are an obnoxious person with a self absorbed attitude to all things Zed , what if every time you posted someone was to rebuke you with the rude and tactless manner in which you presribe to . Get a grip of yourself this is all about fun and sharing and not finding the holy grail just a motor car with which we all have our own different interests in , eat some humble (pork)pie for once.

I can't but agree with Escanlon, every time and I mean every time a z is for sale someone on this site always talks the price down ,why? . It makes you think that those people would rather own a 120y. If that car sells for the asking price then all our cars go up in value as it is the new bench mark. Those knockers should stick to Sunday walks through used car yards if they love tyre kicking so much.

Wow 300 hp is insane power N/A and can be made but at huge expense that would consume that stock 4 speed in hours, if not minutes, I would suggest 15- 20k to build a motor that makes the power of a imsa z. Don't shoot to high .

No not greenies fault , until there is an inquiry then I think everyone should say nought , especially on a public forum. I have worked in U/G coal for 22 yrs so I think I know a little bit about this subject, but I will just say that as the company chose to go ahead and develop the mine as an U/G operation then they have an obligation to manage all risk, be it gas, strata, ect. Very poor judgement to blame , and by the way don't for one moment think that open cut mines are not with out risk. And by the way an open cut operation in the paparoa would be unfeasable , as it is wy to mountainess, not like our Aust seams which are flat and easily accessable by open cut.

Wow , that exhaust is a work of art , honestly you have to junk it if you want to make any serious improvent in performance , for a zed you need a 2.5 inch from collector to rear use nice mandrel bends a middle resonator and a rear silencer, a good exhaust shop should be able to cater for your needs , make sure they take the time to tuck it up tight , but not touching body , use all new hangers and clamps as well . The end result should be a nice grin oh and smaller bank balance .

I feel sorry for your hardships , but was a little distressed about your quote at the bottom of your page. Life is always better than the the other option , we just need to find those good reasons and if we can't then look harder.

Maybe the fact that the new bike chain is well lubricated when it is new , unlike a car that is constantly oiled , not a good comparison , but none the less as a chain wears (not stretches) it does alter the cam timing , but you will find that if the timing chain was that worn out so would the rest of the engine , in fact the rings and bearings ect would be worn out much sooner than the chain in most incidences.

In cavities , Just spray in fish oil as it has a good capillary action , costs less and is tried and proven.

Good advise, get a good compression tester and only do a "running Temp" test ,ie warm engine up to operating temp, remove all plugs , ground coil lead ,hold throttle fully open (2nd person) and crank engine.Full pressure should be achieved or close to it in 3 compressions ,if it is relatively even ,all good.If they are all even but low add a little oil, wind over engine to seal against cylinder wall , if test shows a marked increase then rings would be problem, if on the other hand only one cylinder is low adjust valve to spec if no improvement , then possible valve . Again it is critical to warm engine up, as you said engine has been sitting so there could be some rust under the valves which will eventually wear off. Good luck

Throw them away and get some new ones from Arizona Z or the like ,as said where there is rust that is where a stress crack is likely to develop .Not nice at highway speed. A friend of mine had one snap at speed and destroyed his car and nearly himself.

Very nice job, the attention to detail is good,the concept is excellent ,modenise a classic and maintain the classic lines well done. Pay no attention to negatives, if it is your hearts desire then its ok, maybe a little jealousy on your critics part.