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This is the same coil that I have been running for a number of years before I have experienced this problem. I have swapped the new coil with the original one with the same problem of the engine dying. Is the resistance measured from + post to - post and what reading should be acceptable?

Thanks for the reply. I will check the voltage running and not running and get back to the forum.

Thank you Zed Head. Could some of you folks tell me what voltage readings that you get on the coil posts both + and _ ? I am getting 10 volts when the battery is at 12.5 VDC. This could be why the coil is getting hot since it would be drawing more amps with a deficient voltage feed. Thanks for your help

Sorry for the confusion. I have saved teh attachment as a .pdf file so you should be able to open it. Let me know if you are still having problems.IMG_0814.HEIC.pdf

Not sure what you are asking. My phone is 360-220-0799 if you want to chat.

There is too much equipment around the thermostat housing to get a clear picture. I have attached a diagram of the housing and various sensors that could be installed. I have all sensors except the water temperature switch in my thermostat housing assembly, IMG_0814.HEIC

I have 10.6 volts on the + post and 12.6 across my battery posts. I just started the engine and it started immediatly. I keep thinking that the problem is engine temperature related.

I will do that. Last night we were waiting for the engine to fail and noticed that the coil was warm to the touch???? I changed that coil out with the original OEM coil and could not start the engine. The pump was working and there was normal pressure in the fuel manifold. The engine spun up like there was no spark or the fuel was not getting to thru the injectors, so I gave up for the evening. I want to change back to the aftermarket coil before I do anything else. Then I will check if there current to the + post of the coil. I also will see if there is spark from the wire leading to the distributor. I have church tonight but will play with the car tomorrow. Thanks for your interest and help. Did you have any thoughts about my question regarding the sensors in the thermostat housing???

Just replaced the fuel filter yesterday and still had the same symptoms. Fuel pressure looks good when teh engine fails

I can hear the pump running after the engine dies so I think that the pump is OK. This is the second new pump that I have installed since I have had this problem. I am going to change teh fuel filter in the engine compartment and see if it will solve my problem.If not, the next step is to remove the primary filter that I installed between the tank and pump. On another note, there are 2 sensing devices on the thermostat housing. Could either of those be the cause when the engine comes up to temp??, The temp gauge shows normal temp when the engine is running before it fails.

To Zed Head. I replaced both relays. They come as a set from Z Car Depot.com

I want to thank all the folks that have commented on my problem. I am working through the suggestions as fast as a 78 year old DIY guy can, so be patient with me please. It is nice to know that there are folks that are will ing to suppport my project with welcome advice.

My cell phone is 360-220-0799 if you have any questions regarding my post for help

I have a 78 280Z which I have owned and rebuilt over the last 15 years. Before the major renovation noted below was done, the car ran fine. Recently, I tore my fuel system apart and replaced most of the system with new components (List will follow at the end of this set of my comments). The car starts great and runs great for about 5 miles (in the Washington state winter), then stops. There is no sputter or hesitation before it stops running. The engine stops as if I have shut off the key. It will not start again until the engine cools off. I originally suspected vapor lock so I have insulated all the fuel lines in and around the gas tank and fuel pump areas plus all lines in the engine area. Some areas, I installed heat shields. The components that I have replaced include: New fuel tank, new fuel gauge sending unit, all flexible fuel lines, new fuel pump and fuel damper, Fuel pressure regulator, fuel injection relay for pump and engine components. I also installed a 100 micron fuel filter between the new tank and the new fuel pump. Lastly, I put in a new check valve in the gas breather system. after I installed all components, I still had the problem so I took them out to make sure that the filters and pumps were working properly. After re-assembly, the problem still occurs. Fuel pressure is set at 38PSi with the engine not running and 32psi with the engine running. I wonder if the problem is related to the engine coming up to temperature????? I also have done some renovation in the engine compartment to install the new fuel pressure regulator. Can you folks offer any suggestions regarding next steps for me to take?

Thanks. I have the tank and pump out of the car. Installing it where it was originally is easy. I did read somewhere that teh closer to the injectors the better but that could be rumor.