widget777

Thanks guys. Now I have to sell my 14 inch Riken wheel with Michelin Pilot Exalto AS tires.

Guys, There is lots of good info on this forum so thanks for the input. I am a little shy about investing $600 in new tires plus $600 in new wheels without a little clarity so let me ask you about my car situation. After reading all the good stuff on this forum, it seems that the 16X7 Konig wheel with 225*50*16 tires seems like a good selection. I have a 78 280z with stock suspension height and an air dam in the front. Will this size wheel and tire fit without any rubbing? Thanks for your input in advance.

I bought condensors at NAPA. They are called radio suppression units but are capacitors. They are for my alternator and coil

Mallory directs user to place ballast between coil and ignition switch. I assume that it is for running and not for starting. Did youu have any comments about the condensor questions. Perhaps there is a standard aftermarket condensor that can be applied to the coil and alternator????? I have not checked the aftermarket coil instructions yet

I have a stock 78 z except I have installed a Mallory #4563901 distributor. I have not started the engine yet as I am building the engine up around a new long block. What are the capacitance ratings for the condensors on the alternator and the coil? Also, the Mallory instructions require a ballast resistor in the curcuit between the ignition switch and the coil + terminal. I cannot find any reference to a ballast resistor in my manuals. Was there a ballast resisitor put in by Datsun on the 78 models? If so, where is it located?

SO what capacitance should I use on the coil? likewise what capacitance on teh alternator? I have a 78 Z

I have a 78 280Z which is stock...or so I thought. I am restoring the engine compartment and putting in a new engine. While inspecting the rack and pinion assembly, I found that I had a torn bellows/boot so I pulled the assembly to inspect it and replace the bellows on both sides. When I ordered new bellows, the bellows that I recieved had a 1.75 id on the end with the large opening. I also checked the size of some other bellows for a 280Z from my local auto parts stores and they all have the 1.75 ID opening. My rack and pinion bellows ID is only 1.375"!!!!????? Other wise the assembly seems to be identical and fits the frame and wheel assembly according to the original design. I am suspecting that the original rack and pinion was replaced with my current one. Does anyone know what model or year the current assembly may be from? I would also like to buy some new boots to fit this current assembly so let me know if you have a source. I have attached a pic of my current assembly. Thanks

Thank you for the help.

I have a 78 280 z and have the engine out of the car. While the engine is out, I want to replace the front seal on the automatic transmission. I have studied the 4 manuals that I own and none give good instructions on how to remove the torque converter and replace the seal. Please help: 1- Does the torque converter just slide forward for removal? 2 - Should I be prepared for fluid loss after the converter is removed? 3 - are there any special tricks to replace the front seal? Thanks in advance for the help

I have a 78 280 z and have the engine out of the car. While the engine is out, I want to replace the front seal on the automatic transmission. I have studied the 4 manuals that I own and none give good instructions on how to remove the torque converter and replace the seal. Please help: 1- Does the torque converter just slide forward for removal? 2 - Should I be prepared for fluid loss after the converter is removed? 3 - are there any special tricks to replace the front seal? Thanks in advance for the help

Congrads, It is a dream car for those of us that have reached teh $10k level headed for $20k. Keep sharing teh pics as it is finished.

I am ready to lift my long block out of the car so that I can clean the engine compartment and put a new long block in. Just 2 bolts left to take off. How do I remove the oil dip stick tube and the metal oil breather tube that leads to the hose that connects to the PVC valve? My new long block does not come with these 2 items. Thanks

I am removing my 78 280z engine (N42 engine with N47 head) and do not have the lift brackets to connect the engine hoist to. Does anyone have an extra set that I can borrow or buy?

Esprist, Thanks for the input. I am removing the engine to replace the long block so I assume that I can disregard steps 1 - 8 and access the front tranny seal with the tranny still in the car? Is it possible to replace the rear tranny seal later with the tranny still in the car?

Thanks. My engine does not have the brackets. Can you confirm that the connection are on teh cylinder head and not teh cast iron block?

DOes anybody have any hints on how to replace the front tranny seal on a 78 z with automatic. I am pulling the engine and want to do the seal at the same time. Is there anything else that i should do on theh tranny while the engine is out of the car? Thanks

I am removing my long block for replacement with a rebuilt long block. I have reveiwed the 4 manuals that I own and none clearly identify and locate the lift points for teh block. Can anyone show me what block/ head bolt holes to use to fasten to the lifting tackle on engie hoist? Thanks

I heard that i need a new computer to switch my auto tranny ot a manual??? Yes or no.

I am thinking of changing my tranny from an automatic to a manual. Does anyone have a set of instructions or some special advice that I can read?

I have a 78 280z that I believe is stock. What should teh cylinder compression levels be in LBS per SQ Inch? How much should they vary from one cylinder to another?

I have a 78 280z stock in all aspects. I am puting on headers amd am thinking about replacing the long block with a rebuilt long block. My research to date scares me with the fly by night engine rebuild houses that are on the market. DOes anyone have a recommendation on a good house to buy a long block?

THanks for the reply. I presume that the temp sensor is not visible from the outside. I cannot see any connection apparent on the outside except the multi-contact connector that is black. Can you give me a rough idea of how many turns from a seated position (all the way in) the two screws are backed out in your AFM?

1978 280z. Rear window will not de-fog. I have changed out the switch and panel light and have 12 volts to the connections at the window. Any hints on what to do to make it de-fog?? Thanks for your interest.

I have a 78 280z and wonder what the two screws (they have rubber plugs covering them) that are located on each side of the lower out take port (the side that is closest to the throttle chamber) are designed to do. When I cleaned the air flow meter, I noticed that the screws seem to adjust the size of an air bypass port channel. I have played with the adjustment and have likely adjusted the setting out of the factory setting. Can anyone tell me what the function of the two screws is and how I should adjust them to get them close to the factory setting? Is there a test to see if the air flow meter is functioning properly? Lastly, does my car have an air temperature sensor on the air flow meter? Thanks for your help in advance.

I have holes in my down pipe (section between the exhaust manifold and and the catalytic converter) have been trying to find a down pipe for over a month with no luck. I prefer to just replace the down pipe but if they are not available I will consider an aftermarket header kit. Question #1 - Does anyone know where I can get a down pipe...new is preferable but I will consider a used one. Question #2 - If I go with an aftermarket header kit, do I have to remove the intake manifold and all the goodies that go with it or can I remove the exhaust manifold from underneath and not disturb the intake system??