suzook86

OK, now that I'm thourghly depressed what's left? Currently I'm running a modern sys MSA header, 2.5" pipe, and Dynomax. But back in the day I had an Ansa on my 260, and I raced anything on Hwy 20 heading to Tahoe. Man, the sound echoing through the forest was like music, made you feel ten foot tall and bullet proof. Ooops, got that mixed up with the stupidity of youth. The best run ever was a humbling encounter with a very fast wide bodied BMW 2002 (with ski rack). We diced and had fun from I-80 thru the forest till the road opened up, at which point, he waved and was gone, very fast Bimmer. Damn Alzheimers . . . so what's left Twice Pipes?

It Feels Good, nan, nuh, nan, nah, nan, naaa!!! Finally, I was ready to start the car. After rebuiding carbs, re-timing the dizzy, valve adj, R&R fuel pump, numerous oil leaks eliminated, rad hose R&R, removal of 20' of dead wiring, re-wiring the lights, eng, and fuse box to some what stock, electrical troubleshooting out the arse, alternator upgrade, evap tank elimination, fuel & vent lines R&R, fuel tank and lines cleaning, rebuild 4ea brakes, and starter upgrade the time had come. Lots of anxiety here, but pulled the choke lever, turned the key . . . and she starts!!! Not only does she start but settles into nice steady puuurrrr, no stumbles, no leaks. It damn near brought a tear to my eye. Still a lot more to do but I'm gonna be savoring this for a while. Thanks to all contributors of the site . . . very cool!

I'm with KenB, was a new group order ever done? I would definately be interested in new springs. I currently have a Eibach/Koni set-up, and as many have said before they're a tad harsh on the street. Besides my front left strut is blown and requires a rebuild.

Thanks for the pics Julio, very clean work in fitting the carpet. Wish my interior was half as nice. Sometime this fall/winter I hope to start my restoration. For right now I'm working on mech/elec to fix what I know is bad, and continue accumulate parts. Then drive through the summer to eliminate whatever else I can find. Must concentrate, one step at a time ().

Good looking car on a day made for cruising. Can't wait to do the same in the near future.

Thanks Dave. I found it right where you said, it was blended into the main harness with black tape. Both pins connected/fused and power to the aft connection. Now I'm free to remove the PO's custom pump harness he spliced into the fuse box melting the in-line fuse housing . . . good times!!!

Has anyone bought one of these carpet kits? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400050329414&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

I'm installing a fuel pump on a '71 Z (build 12/70) and have found the aft connectors, but cannot find the fwd connectors (green and black with white tracer). There is nothing wrapped in blue tape, can anyone point me in the direction of it's origination point, ie fuse box, ignition? Just thought I'd ask before jumping in with the multimeter.

My DD is an '07 Tundra. The Rig enroute to K Falls Oregon to check out some land we bought.

Does anyone know or have experiece with installing 280z panels in a 240z? I've used the search but can't find a specific answer. My problem is I have no panels aft of the 1/4 window panels. 280z panels seem to be more pentiful and from what I'm told are of thicker material. The panels appear to have the same contours as the 240, don't know about the texture.

Very nice paint job with prep work and pick up/delivery for $2000 . . . outstanding!!! Can't say I've ever heard of that level of quality of service out here. Any ABQ shops reading this board ()?

Thanks Adamr, Courtesy Nissan is my friend as I just purchased a new fill tube & sending unit for the fuel tank. After dropping the tank I couldn't see any rust to speak but who's to say behind the baffle. Just looked like what you would expect a 37 yr old tank to look like, a little worn on the inside and rough on the outside, like me!!! However, I am going aftermarket over at Summit for a new fuel pump and in-line filter. I couldn't find any FOD in the pump, but did hard wire the pump at the batt to confirm it was dead. I don't know what brand it was but has part #910BE322RM, no yahoo hits. Haven't decided on the vent lines yet . . . damn their proud of those $87.00 for 17235-E4601 (1ea).

Excellent pics, enjoy the season guys!!!

'70 Cam Guy, no filter was installed before the fuel pump by PO. My bad, I had previously checked the fuel tank, fuel lines for contamination, to include blowing out the lines and draining the tank (2X no debris). I knew I should have pulled the tank and boiled it etc but didn't in my haste to get her fired up. Expensive lesson, should know better, but the tank is out and at the shop. So, best guesstimate is about $230+ to do job right.

Thanks everyone for the comments. I just recieved my catalog CD from MSA, didn't realise the amount of stuff they don't list on their web page. Thanks Beandip, I've already rebuilt my SU's by way of ZTherapy. Was going to fire them up but my fuel pump is dead. Think it may have ingested something . . . so out comes the fuel tank. Ouch, this is going to cost!!!

Just out of curiosity and boredom, where does everyone get there parts from? Looking at stuff like alternators, elec pumps, starters, hardware, rubber bits, you know just the basic everyday stuff to keep these things going year after year.

Not trying to hijack the thread but does anyone have info on PO's dual mag distributor D6F4-02 ? I bought his 71Z with 280ZX (F54) motor, E31 head, MSD 6AL & Blaster coil. I'm having trouble with keeping the car running. My options for finding the "right" junkyard dizzy here in Albuquerque are nill right now. Would like to hear any thoughts/comments about it's compatibility with my current set-up, and/or a line on something better.

That's why I ask questions here first, thanks Phil (by way of Will) for good info on Al Newell of Datsun-Parts LLC. So . . . alrighty then does anyone have a 79-80 E12-80 dizzy sitting around not doing anything ()?

Does anyone have info on a dual mag distributor D6F4-02 ? I have a 71Z with 280ZX (F54) motor, E31 head, MSD 6AL & Blaster coil. My option for junkyard dizzy finds here in Albuquerque are nill right now. Would like to hear any thoughts/comments about it's compatibility with my current set-up, and/or a line on something better. Which brings me to my second question, has anyone bought a dizzy from Datsun-Parts LLC on E-Bay http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Datsun-Parts-LLC__W0QQ_armrsZ1 ?

Well, it's nice to see I'm in good company. I've been trying to find bolt torque specs for the thermostat housing/cap, as well as the rocker cover. However, after my melt down I found AutoZones repair guide. Seems to be fairly accurate from what I was able to cross reference. I going with 100 in/lbs for the thermostat housing/cap and 84 in/lbs for the rocker cover. Hope I'm somewhere in the ball park.

Where you get them? I'm from the school that everything has a torque spec, but I've found very few in the FSM or Haynes. Just a random momentary rant!!!

Thanks for the great thread to soothe my current love/hate relationship . . . "Z" induced, of course. However, for me it will always be a wide bodied Porche 911, turbo or not, the drool factor is the same. OK, back to reality, the "Z" is in the air with another month of work before she's mechanically sound enough for the street . . . still sexy though!

Yes, I used fresh gas and oil. However, I just pulled the distributor cap and see the rotor is not pointing at #1 cyl TDC. It's pointing at the drivers seat, and when I rotate it to #1 cyl the timing mark is off scale. The #1&2 cam lobes are butterflied, sort of like a "V" indicating the vlv is closed at TDC. Though I've read in other post where they describe the lobes as pointing straight up, confused on that. I bought a new oil pressure switch, but she doen't want to run right now, so still troubleshooting. Guess I should have been more thorough in my pre-checks prior to starting. Ah well, it's good stuff getting back into car work, and the wife is cool with it so far . . . !!!

Hello All, Well, I have my car running after sitting for 4yrs. I bought it a year or so ago but was really busy and have just gotten around to bringing her back to life (very slowly & carefully). She runs but idles erratically, I've set the valves, checked timing, and set the carbs best I can without a Uni-syn. I see oil during start, but the gauge reads "0" @ idle (bad press xmitter), however follows engine RPM. What's normal @ idle ? She runs very rough, almost like she wants to grenade herself. The car is a bit of a Hybred: '71 240, 280ZX block w/flat top pistons, E31 head, E46 intake, 4screw SU's, Crane 6AL Ignition, & 280z Magnetic Dist. This is the configuration the PO had when I bought it. Is there a conflict of parts combination? I would like to get her running right before I tear her down for cosmetics.

Thanks for the replys and comments everyone. Mr Camo in Perth, AU. I've an uncle who moved his family there from England some 10 years ago and says it was the best decision he's ever made. I visited when in the Air Force and agree it's a very beautiful place, cheers!