suzook86

OK, how about the vapor expansion/recovery tank thingy (tech term ) behind the right aft interior panel. I don't know it just seems there is a better way to do this. Also, how many are still using the Flow Guide which directs said vapors to the crankcase. And if it has been deactivated/removed, wouldn't that add to the problem of vapors in the car. Being that there is no longer a continuous removal of the tank vapors. Just thought I'd throw this out there as this topic is a fairly consistent complaint. Thanks for listening!

OK, did the search thing and found references about eliminating the vent box/tank, but no specifics about this. What is the considered opinion about this? I can understand in keeping a car as stock as possible, but my path is to do logical upgrades to enhance the vehicle. Surely, after 38 years there is a better way to vent the tank than what currently exists.

Patiently re-working . . . lot-O-work, bringing a '71 240 back to life. Generally speaking there is nothing usable left of the interior (except the seats), all are cracked, faded, and/or missing. Has anyone used the panels from ClassicDatsun or Best Euro Auto Parts found on E-Bay? What I'm concerned about is how well they've reproduced the grain and the thickness.

How about burnt orange, like the new Mitsubishi Eclipse.

For all the reasons previously stated don't do the 2+2, any of the V8's will fit with little difficulty. Your only real delays will be deciding which motor and the time invested in making it look and perform correctly. As for turning middle-aged, you will, its as inevitable as taxes. As for being middle-aged and driving a "Vette", well that's up to you and what you do with your life between now and then. Saw your website, good job on what you've accomplished so far. Looks to be an excellent choice for a V8 conversion / "Vette" eater ().

This car wasn't running when I bought it, because the carbs were leaking fuel badly and were removed and partially disassembled (according to PO). While it's taken me longer than expected (work, honey-do's, etc), I've finally gone through the carbs and set the adjustment all the way in and 3ea turns out, can not do synch yet. I'm now ready for an official first start of a car that hasn't been started in about 1.5yrs. I'll be removing the plugs, squirting oil in the cyl, removing the vlv cover, and liberally coating the vlv train in oil. I did the above when I first checked out the eng. to ensure she wasn't siezed, she's not. So, can ya'll suggest any other things to do for a first start?

How difficult is it to modify the rear floor of a '71 Z to accept compartment doors? By the way the Z I'm rebuilding will not be period or number correct. However, it will be modded with updates I feel are logical, smart, and add some level of performance following the KISS principal . . . of course.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and advice. As Galaxybj can attest I have a long way to go in breathing new life into the 'ol girl'. Did fire her up for a short time even though the linkage had damaged/missing parts and a leak on both carbs. But for that one brief moment she sounded nice. So, I'm off to find linkage parts, rebuild kits, and get her running right!!! Thoughts and/or comments of where to start would be greatly appreciated. ABQ "Z" guys is there a club in town or general place ya'll hang out to discuss our car of choice?

What are your thoughts on Black Dragon and Z Specialties? From what I see they look good. However, I was just wondering what the general concensus was of those of you who have been restoring longer than myself (novice). Such as good quality parts, service, price, etc.? While your reading this lets expand it to any thoughts/comments on your internet "Z" buying experiences!!!

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and advice. I'm very intrigued by the LED's, damn our lighting is . . . lacking!!! However, sadly I find myself bitten by the bug, constantly looking @ Ebay, searching for info on this and that, "Hello my name is Jim and I'm "Z" addicted" . . . sigh!!!

Does anyone know where I might be able to find a map light? OK, who's laughing out there I can hear you (), even in ABQ. Seriously, what years will work with my car?

Thanks for the welcome replys. The carbs are broke down and being cleaned as we speak, they don't look to bad. And yes I did look at the frame rails, they looked fine as far as rust goes. However, the right forward has a ding in it about 1/2" deep by 1.5 - 2" long. Couldn't see any other damage in the area suggesting a crash, so I assumed he bottomed out at sometime. Also looked at the usual rust area's, the rear W/W's top have bondo, will probably cut that out in the future. The battery tray has surface rust but, doesn't seem to have infected the firewall. Otherwise, she looks like any other 35 yr old car would look, "ridden hard and put away wet".

Hi everyone just recently joined the site after buying a '71 240Z. The previous owner was developing it into an all around good runner with the following; 280zx block w/flat top pistons, 240z head, 240z intake - polished and port matched, 240z SU carbs (the good kind), Borg Warner chrome piston rings and bearings, Fel Pro gaskets, Crane 6AL ignition, 280z Magnietic dist, 5 Speed Transmission from 280zx, Luk clutch, lightened flywheel, driveshaft w/new U-joints, axels w/new U-joints, diff from 280zx, Motorsport header, Dynomax exhaust, Koni adjustable shocks, Eibach coils w/adjustable spring seats, Roh Snyper wheels, and reupholstered seats. Whew, well now its my turn to carry on. Had a 260Z 20+ yrs ago so I'm familiar with the cars driving characteristics (fun). I hope to go through the car completely eventually. However, for now I need to redo the carbs and get the car running again, as the previous owner left suddenly for a job on the east coast almost a year ago. So I'll be asking alot of questions in the future, after doing a search (duh, ).