whamo

No, its Vancouver (not B.C.), Washington (not D.C.) We park on the wrong side of the street because of the hill, and then we burn rubber all over the place in typical redneck fashion. :laugh:

Toni and her 240z. The car is getting closer all the time.

A mind is a terrible thing to waste..............

Not a Datsun but quite a surprise for the seller. The opening bid was $500. Rusty old car, no engine or transmission, evidence of a racing history. Pretty cool story this car almost went to scrap metal. 1 of 6 ultra rare Pontiac SD Tempest cars in 1963. Be sure to login to eBay (if you have an account) to see all 38 questions from the buyers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110306170567 http://njection.com/blogs/autoblog/archive/2008/11/10/ebay-find-of-the-day-1963-lemans-tempest-sells-for-226-521.aspx

I dont think you would actually have to change the pedal box itself. I used my AT pedal box (it was in better condition) and swapped out the pedals, if I remember correctly.

Yes, you could just lift the car 5 feet, but that wouldnt allow much room for working under the car.

Here is the side by side comparison I mentioned in the earlier thread. http://www.metro-lifts.com/backyardbuddy_BendPak_compare.pdf

This is the one I have. Its easy to park under. I bought the high lift version because I dont have a lot of floor space. I needed to be able to lift the rack up high enough that I could comfortably walk underneath it and Im 6 ft tall. Im afraid that the lower lift model would have had me hitting my head when working below it. Its made in china (I believe) and the quality and workmanship are just fine. If you call some of the companies selling USA manufactured lifts they may give you a line of crap in an effort to scare you, thats what they tried to do to me. After seeing a side by side comparison I made my decision to buy the bendpak. http://www.bendpak.com/products/automotive-lifts/four-post-lifts/hd-9stx.php

Thanks Jon, Thats what Im plannig on doing. When I posted the request I was 2500 miles from the car but had access to a welder. I was hoping to fabricate the shifter while there. It looks like it should be easy to calculate the correct configuration now that the shifter, the car and I are all in the same geographic location. It doesnt look like I will be able to use the old lower shift boot though.

Here are some photos of the 83zx 5speed in my 10/70 240z original automatic car. It appears that a slight trim would allow shifter movement through all of the gears but may put the shifter in an uncomfortable position. My original post was a special request for dimensions of a modified shifter if someone had one they could measure. I didnt find those measurements in any of the "Searches" I performed.

I believe they were either M10x1.25 or M12x1.25. I found some hex head stainless plugs that worked nicely. removing the old tubes with the head attached to the engine would have been nearly impossible. A hammer and punch were required to remove the carbon covered tubes that extend into the exhaust ports.

I remember hearing in the past that the 5 speed swap only required a "little" trimming of the tunnel to fit. By the looks of the shift lever modification. It looks like a "whole lot" of trimming would be required. Just checking before I cut, bend and weld my old shift lever.

I removed mine, however the manifold was off the engine and on my bench. I purchased the correct plugs from the local hardware store. I wll check to find the size and thread for you if you are still interested.

Does she have an similar photo of you in her avatar?

No, but they experimented with a political sub forum....... it lasted about 3months before it was completely out of hand. Its a pretty large and sucessful forum. Here are their latest numbers. Members: 19,978 | Threads: 143,546 | Posts: 1,144,006

I wouldnt be to concerned really, the other automotive forum I frequent is far more politically correct than this one and they dont have any girls either.........

That is a good point. I believe mostly we are dealing with semantics in the discussion.

They make the most power right before you burn a piston.

I think you need to clarify the terms you are using. You don't enlarge ports to install larger valves. You have the valve seats cut to the appropriate size, usually this will require back cutting the valve seat to realize any improvements. "Porting" "or enlarging a port" means grinding with a cutter to smooth and enhance air flow inside the port itself. The port is the inner portion of the cylinder head from the manifold to the valve seat . If you dont use the proper terminology any shop you contact will probably be confused by your request. Most machine shops should be able to cut the head for the larger valves (ask for a 3 angle or better valve job). Porting, requires very specific knowledge of the particular type of engine you are performing the work on. I would be surprised if you could find a local shop with the required knwledge of a nissan 6 to do a good job of porting the head.

Bending the tabs affects the float chamber fuel level. As bruce pointed out , this affects the fuel mixture. Assuming that they are the same as before is a heck of a leap of faith in my opinion. If you didnt allready, you should set/check the float level setting. If it is set too high or too low, no amount of mixture adjustment on the carbs will get you where you need to be mixture wise.