lombrozo

View Advert Beautiful 1984 Nissan 300ZX project – Barn Find! $3000 Beautiful 1984 Nissan 300ZX project – Barn Find! $3000 1984 Nissan 300ZX, 2 door hatchback. No dents, NO RUST! Not run since 2014. 162,000 miles. Grandma loved this car, but in 2013or 2014 she decided to stop driving and put it in the garage. There it has rested. She finally agrees to let it go. Grandpa took the best care of it. She bought it about 1993, and has been the only driver of it. The last 18 years it was driven gently (like a Grandma) on low traffic country roads, never hot-rodded. Was running when parked, but you all know what it takes to bring a 10 year parked car back to life. Or, what a great starting point for something really special. Clear title, but registration expired in 2014. Absolutely no rust, California and Oregon car, has never seen snow or salt. Body and interior in great shape. Automatic, with overdrive. Not turbocharged model. Has the talking feature, she loved to hear “Your door is ajar” from it. Includes factory shop manual Offering for $3000, cash only. Also putting ads on Z Car forums, eBay and Craigslist, act quickly! Sold As Is, Where Is. 40 miles SW of Portland OR. In Yamhill OR. If you need a bill of sale, bring the form you need and we can have her complete it. I can help you load it onto your trailer. If you need it shipped, you would have to make your own arrangements. I could trailer it within a few hundred miles, for costs and gas. ALSO! Note from background of pictures. Grandpa’s 1990 300ZX, also parked since about 2019 when his health began to fail. Not as pretty, but a whole lot faster. Available as well for $3000, or take the pair home for $5000. I will be running a second ad for this one, again, hurry! David Lombrozo David@Lombrozo-Tech.com 503-314-5809 Advertiser lombrozo Date 10/03/2023 Price $3,000 Category Cars for Sale Year 1984 Model 300ZX Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) JN1HZ14SEX026997  

1973 240Z, original carpet looks OK but the underlying plastic is horrid and cracking. All the carpet pieces are flat - just the floor mats, the rear deck, and the pieces that go behind/under the seats - no fancy seams. I would like to find some Home-Depot black carpet (or even go to a carpet store) and cut new pieces, using the stock pieces as perfect templates. Any suggestions on how to prevent unravelling of the edges (including the cut in the middle of the rear deck to allow opening individual tool compartments? Is there a glue-on edging that is commonly available? Is there a type of carpet that has secure edges when cut with scissors/razor blade? I am planning to glue an underlayer of mylar bubble-wrap insulation to the underside of the carpet, perhaps I can make a nice seam this way, maybe with some sort of silicon rubber at the edges? Any advice appreciated.

Roundtop SUs on a 73 240Z with 280 degree Racer Brown cam. Stock distributor with Pertronix ignition and coil. Do I want my vacuum advance connected to manifold vac or ported vac? I currently have a problem with hot idle, wonder if it is just lack of vacuum advance at idle? How are y'all plumbed?

My oil pressure gauge seems to say the right things, but slowly. I have not replaced the sender. I am wondering what the normal expectation is? I can rev up the motor and it takes a few seconds for the gauge to get to 2/3 of scale. Is this typical, is it a normal sender failure. or a gauge failure? 73 240Z, 72 SUs, Pertronix, Racer Brown 280 cam, big alternator.

The car is a 73, bone stock, dad bought it new; it does not have the electric fuel pump, and the filter is good, tank was boiled out. I did the ZT video instructions, pulled the needles, could see no trace of marking s on the heads (no doubt about that Murphy fella). I have sprayed extensively and find no vac leaks. I don't have much vac at idle, I don't know how much to attribute to the cam (I misspoke, it is Racer Brown 270) I took it a quarter turn leaner when it was hot last night, and it raised the idle, I was able to back off the idle screws and get a bit better idle, but still wants to fade away at long stops. I do have a UniSyn. Does anybody sell stock 72 needles so that I can at least get back to a baseline?

Ebay roundtops aparently from 72, with water chambers at the bottom of the carbs. Motor is stock 73 with Schneider 270 degree cam, pertronix ignition. Smog all stripped, water supplied to carbs and manifold. Stock exhaust. Mechanical fuel pump. All seems to be going well, but I am having trouble getting a stable idle when hot. Have the Ztherapy video, but no idea how to tell which needles are installed. How low should I be able to idle with a 270 degree cam? I made a larger heat shield thinking that I was cooking the float bowls after a hard run. It will idle all day in the driveway, but first stoplight after the mountains and the idle slowly drops until it dies if I don't pedal it. Experimenting with leaning the idle now on the alternate theory that it richens up with all that heat raising the vapor pressure in the float bowls. Looking forward to your theories. Tired of three-footing at the stoplights.

I have not been able to find one, where is it mounted? Some references say that 73's have them. I think my build date is 10/72. I am still in the process of bringing Dad's original 73 back to life, garaged since 1983.

Hi folks! I am bringing my dad's original 73 240Z back to life after 23 years in the garage. It has a Racer Brown 280 degree cam, and I installed SUs and manifold from a 72, and Pertronix electronic ignition. What should I be using for needles in the SUs? I have it idling well, and balanced, but seems to be lean on the top end. I am gradually richening up the nozzle settings, but wonder if I am going to need different needles with this cam. Thanks!