z-ya

It has the flat tops, so we will see if I can get it running good enough without doing the swap. If I end up making it a driver, then I will probably swap over to round tops. In either case I will save all the original parts.

I can't be 100% sure, but the brother of the second owner who gave it to me thought that it didn't have a lot of miles on it. The oil in the engine, looks like it just came out of the bottle. Under the cam cover it is incredibly clean. The transmission shifts like new. It has the original OEM muffler on it. The clutch pedal does have some wear though. Threre are no drive line clunks. The plates say 1992, but the safety inspection sticker is from 1985.

OK, found the issue. I check the continuity of the entire circuit, and it was OK. Then I went back and tested the spare voltage regulators I had tested before. I noticed that one had corrosion I had missed. Cleaned it up, and that regulator worked. So it's chaging now! Took it for a spin around the block last night, and besides the lumpy 20+ year old tires, and ran and drove pretty good! Here is the alternator test. Basically if the voltage rises at the battery, the alternator is good:

Thanks for the reply. I tested the alternator by connecting the battery + terminal to the input voltage pin on the two prong alternator connector. This is what the FSM says. The RPM dropped, and the battery voltage started rising. The dashboard ammeter started deflecting. With things connected normally, the dash ammeter needle never deflects in either direction. I don't give up easy . Going on my 4th S30. First 260Z. Besides the smell, I kind of like it. Keeping it as stock as possible.

Hello All, I recently picked up a early 74' 260Z with 25k miles on it for free. It is all original, and still has the CT plates from 92'. Has some minor rust problems and lots of mouse droppings. Also has uncracked dash and besides the seats, a perfect interior. I've got it running pretty good now, but am struggling with the charging system. So far I have tried the following: - Three different voltage regulators - Cleaned all connectors - Tested alternator, and is fully functional - Checked and cleaned fused links The battery voltage is around 12.6V, and doesn't vary mutch when I change engine RPM. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks, Pete

Latest Update Please pass the word - this is the 10th year anniversary of the last time we had a convention in NH. Here are some of the highlights for this year's event: - New Hampshire Motor Speedway (NHMS) - HPDE track event! Get on-track and go fast legally while learning a bit more about your Z and car control. - Anheuser-Busch location car show (free brewery tour) - Autocross - at NHMS - Scenic New England cruise and Poker Run - Clam bake & lobster boil! - Special Guests: Bob Sharp (of Bob Sharp Racing), Mr. Matsuo (240z Designer), and Randy Rodriguez (370z Designer) - Banquet & Awards Dinner (possible Yutaka Katayama participation via video conference) Please spread the word at your car club events! You can follow ZCON 2013 on Twitter or via Facebook (search for "ZCON"). Clean up the Z's and get to NH this August! You can register today at ZCON.

Some of the events are starting to fill up. I would suggest that people get registered now to ensure that you don't miss out on an event. Thanks, Pete ZCON 2013 Registration.

MSA has them for $9.99 each (ouch!)

I have the Cobra Imola GT in my "community" track car. I'm 6'2" and 245lbs, and it fits me great. I was also able to mount it on the factory seat mounts with sliders. My helmet clears the roof and cage. http://www.cobraseats.com/imolas.htm

What are the ratios for the Maxima transmission? Are they like the 280Z 5-speed, or more like the ZX 5-speed (closer ratio)? Thanks

Best way to check if an injector is working is to pull off the connector when the engine is idling. You should hear a change in RPM and smoothness. I would think that the test light would not light up so much at idle. If you increas the RPM, the light should become brighter Pete

I'm 6'2", 250lbs, so I understand. I've had thoses cables disconnected before, and I'm dreading the fact that I have to back under there and do it again. Last time I did it, I took the passenger seat out, and layed on some old pillows on my back. Pete

Thanks a bunch for the help. Pete

If you have the oil pump shaft installed correctly, the distributor can only go in one way. The timing should be close enough to start the engine. You can always disconnect power from the fuel pump, crank the engine, and look at the timing with a timing light.

I pulled the radio out of my 72' for the first time. It had an aftermarket Alpine 80's vintage dual shaft style radio. The previous owner had fabricated an aluminum box to hold the radio. It was just sitting in there. Is there a bracke thtat should be in there to hold the radio? I'm putting in a new Alpine unit that has a standard DIN chassis. Thanks, Pete

With coil overs, you can 8" rims with a 4.5" backspace. I run 15x8s on the street, and 16x8s on the track. No clearance problems with stock fender lips. Pete

You have the make sure that the throut bearing collar and clutch fork are a set. There are certain clutch forks that you can't mix with other bearing collars. So if you are trying use an early 4 speed clutch fork with a later bearing collar, the clutch may not fully disengage. When I first put my turbo car together I had a similar problem, but much worse than yours. I couldn't drive it at all because the clutch wouldn't disengage. Pete

I have a late 72 (L24), oil pan and a L28 oil pan, and I can't tell the difference. I've read elsewhere that there is a difference, but I can't seem to find one. Is there really a difference? Thanks, Pete

I'd like to install an Arizona Z aluminum one. Anyone install one of these without lifting the engine from it's mounts? Thanks, Pete

Any one replace their oil pan while the engine was in the car? Specifically a L28ET in a 240Z. Do you need to raise the motor up to do it? Thanks, Pete

I find it hard to believe that an ITS L26 puts out 235 HP at the crank. Don't ITS cars have to run stock CR, and cam? an 8.5:1 L26 with a stock cam would be lucky to make 160HP at the crank. Pete

Here is the dyno sheet for a motor I built with these specifications: Stock bore flat top pistons N47 head 10:1 CR Stock cam, no port work port matched intake 60mm throttle body Stock F54 short block (no balancing, etc.) 6:1 header 2.5" exhaust with supertrapp muffler stock 81' 280ZX distributor and coil Megasquirt fuel injection (fuel only) stock 280Z injectors