aldersonr

Hopefully it'll do better than the last. Anybody know details on the car by chance?

How was the rust on it and was everything there?

Hook up the vacuum advance, thats what it does.

The turn signals and the running lights.

Depending on how strict the shop is I would fix the leak. Some techs have a great ear and can tell if you have an exhaust leak. As for the car go ahead with the cat and make sure it's tuned up. To be sure drive it around a little before the test to make sure the cat is up to temp. It works better when hot. Other than that you should have no problems but just in case you'll have 2 weeks to get it up to par and most shops can tell you whats wrong and where to look. Good luck!

Still looking if anyone has a spare in working order.

It was the first movie they used real race cars instead of props or sped up the film to make them look faster. I just saw a showing of it on cable commemorating it for the release. They used some great filming techniques for the era(sorry old timers) and the film really showed it.

Around $50 or so would be good I guess, it depends on quality I suppose. And I tried cleaning it up but it's something inside that's causing the problem. I used a chart from an earlier post to check continuity throughout the switch.

Can anyone tell me where I might find a cheap, good combination/turn signal switch. This seems to be the last thing to get my 260 to pass inspection. I have done some searching but can't really seem to find anything outside of ebay. I really can't wait for the bidding to end so please help!

That's what I was thinking so I'm gonna take off the back one again and see

I finally got the Z running without stalling!!! Now comes the bad news... The back carb is leaking out of some tube pointed towards the air cleaner. WTF could cause this?

Welcome. I have the same situation myself except mine has 80,000 and set up for 12 years, so share what you learn and I'll do the same.:bandit:

For a road course car a manual for control, but for a drag car an automatic for consistency.

The rods don't have anything to do with the displacement. It's only determined by the crank throw and the diameter of the piston bore. As for the length of the rods, they will change your compression ratios and rod angularity which affects torque output. Higher compression and longer rods will improve as the opposite will, of course, hurt. Sounds like you have a pretty decent engine in a very light car, have fun!

Lance is right, but be careful about buying another block. You may end up with one worse than yours.

I just ran into that one myself, but since mine had been sitting for 12 years I replaced EVERYTHING. As for your situation you may trying spraying the e-brake cable and linkage by the back wheel with a lubricant and tapping on it with a hammer. This has worked on other cars I've dealt with in the past, no promises though. As for the brakes they're a pretty simple setup. Just leave one side together and use it as reference. Also if you connect the bottom spring to the pads before putting them on it saves a lot of hassle. Good luck! -Robert

SUCCESS! After soaking over night in berrymans' and WD-40 I was finally able to pry them out with a little persuasion from a pair of wire cutters (very carefully). It was the pin/rod whatever that held the floats in. Thanks for all your help and suggestions. As soon as I get the other one rebuilt, hopefully with less hassle since I know what I'm doing now, I'll finish getting the interior back in and perhaps another Z will be roaming the streets again!!!

Yeah, any machine shop should be able to do that.

Oh and they're $18 each U.S.

The part # is: 96-293

I got mine through Autozone. It came with all new seals and a new float switch (don't know the tech term). However it didn't have any of the springs or hardware but you shouldn't need those. Just be prepared to do ALOT of cleaning. I definately suggest a lot of spray Berrymans and the gallon jug for soaking! One of the pistons was completely seized so that one took some work . Hopefully it was worth it, not like it's gonna hurt being unseized!

Unfortunately they are holed and I had to rebuild it any way so I may as well do it right. The car sat in a garage for a little over 12 years so most of the seals have semi welded to the metal. It's taken quite a bit of berrymans but they're finally clean and ready to be rebuilt if it wasn't for the bars being stuck. I don't have a problem with these carbs at all since they've been submerged and still ran well. And yes, I've purchased everything I believe I need to do a complete rebuild. I look forward to your response, thank you. -Robert

I'm having trouble replacing the floats on a 260Z. I can't seem to get the bar that each one attaches to out of the housing. If anyone has any Ideas please let me know. And no, unfortunately I can't switch to the round tops just yet thx.

The question is still cost, unfortunately. This is just a temp fix until I can start pumping the money into it that it deserves. Thank you much for your help! -Robert

Sorry Arne, I don't have a camera that can get decent detailed photos. Atleast not enough to see anything.