aldersonr

Yeah I know, but budget and parents(the owners) won't let me stray far from stock so I'm working with what I got.

I just got the carb rebuild kit for my 260Z with new floats. Unfortunately I can't figure out how to get the old floats out. They're the original flat tops that have a bar that holds them in. after removing the screw covering one side I found that it was sunk in to far to get any pliers in to reach it and I can't really pry it out. Has anyone done these yet? I can't find anything in the archives.

Personally unless you're planning on building the SBC to rev over 6500 RPM I would stick with a supercharger. They've gotten quite efficient and work better in lower RPM with no lag time. However if you're dead set on using turbos I would give Greddy or Garrett turbos a call. They're tech departments can gice you a good idea based on RPM, compression ratios, when you you want it to hit full boost, etc. Also if you're using this setup for racing you can eliminate turbo lag by installing a nitrous setup into the exhaust. Make sure you leave room for the exhaust gas to heat up the nitrous enough for it to expand(usuaully about 12-16 inches) This also prevents damage to your engine from the nitrous since it never enters the combustion chamber. Good luck in the quest for power!:bandit:

Here is a link to one: http://cgi.ebay.com/DELRIN-2-3-4-X-24-White-Round-Stock-Acetal-plastic_W0QQitemZ140000487060QQcategoryZ61794QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If you're looking for the best performance with the least maintenance I would suggest Delrin bushings. It's not widely used so finding premade bushings may be difficult for older cars but it provides a fairly smooth ride without the deflection of rubber and doesn't require grease like the urethane. Bar stock can be found on Ebay and any machine shop with a lathe can mill it within specs!

I ran into the same problem with my 260Z. As a fix and theft detterent I reran a wire with a cutoff switch on the positive side. Just make sure you use the right amp fuse and tap into a source that only has power with the key on in case you forget to turn it off!

That's probably what I'll end up doing. I was taught to do things right the first time, it just seems like a daunting tasks. But how will you learn if you don't try! After all most of the wiring I have gone through was aftermarket radio and CB that was very sub par which mat be causing some of the problems as well. Just another step in restoration!

LB260Z- I was afraid of that but only as a last resort for now since the budget is limited and I don't think it was completely soaked. According to my dad he drove completely through the puddle and when he hit the top of the hill it stalled but started right back up and they drove it a little after that but only as a backup. MikeW- I was hoping it was just a single point ground for the dash panel since that's what the diagram shows... As for power there seems to be constant through the fuse box. The main concern is that the insruments seems to take on different instruments. The tach acts like a voltmeter, the ammeter barely moves outside of starting, the fuel gauge doesn't work at all, and neither does the clock as far as I know. As for the speedo, oil pressure, and temp gauges I don't know either but everything else electrical works so really I'm just trying to narrow it all down. Thanks to both for the help!

Thank you I will try that. You wouldn't happen to know where the ground may be located would you? Electrical gremlins are a pain to track down!

I would really like to get help with this if possible. It would mean alot to my mom to get her car running again. I am a recent Wyotech grad and would love to give her this as a thanks for everything she's done for me. Once again thanks for any and all help you could offer.

I'm restoring a 260Z that my parents have had sitting in the garage for over 12 years. So far I have replaced the brake system and am rebuilding the carbureutors since one was seized, but I'm having trouble with the dash instrumentation. According to the wiring schematic I have they share the same ground so I was wondering if anyone knew where the ground locations were? My dad drove it through a "puddle" that submerged it up to the bottom of the windows so I'm hopeing this is the problem. Also any other suggestions are welcome, thanks.