zbane

Well, they both hang around... Sorry, couldn't resist.

Yes, you have to have a Gmail account in order to edit the map. From Arne's link, log into google maps (same info used when logging into your gmail account). Once logged in, use the collaborate/edit option. I didn't find a way to type in my address, so I ended up panning around the map and zooming in on where I live. Wow, 1 day, 17 hours (41 hours) to drive from my place to Arne's... Tempting... How many Z's would be on the way?

On my 79 I saw that some of my undercoating was torn/wearing so I removed it to see how bad the rust was. While I expected there to be some rust there, what I didn't expect was for the undercoating in a 6 in radius to just come off with just the slightest persuasion, especially since what came off appeared to be fine. There was more surface rust under that area than where the coating had worn. Point being- just because it looks good doesn't mean that it is. Many will say "if you are going to do it, you might as well do it right the first time"

I would obsess over this... The M roadster is a great car. IMO it has a Z's heart and soul. Yes, it is small and unassuming, even could be considered cute-but it hides beneath it's contoured sheetmetal a great engine and suspension. Nice to look at, but full of attitude.

Welcome/Bienvenidos!! I always wonder what the history of our cars is before we get them. I imagine that if yours could talk, it would have some interesting stories to tell. I have a zx as well, and know where a couple parts cars are at, so if I may be of service, please ask!

The "While I'm At It" syndrome has claimed it's most another victim... Welcome to a not so elite club... Now go down to Blue Corn on the corner of Cerrillos Rd. and Del Monte and get yourself a beer (and an order of Wings of Fire) You deserve it.

John, the point that I believe Enigma was trying to make is that your engine may be one of those that has the notch plate on the driver side, and that you don't need one for the passenger side. Note Arne's post regarding the three engines he's dealt with (#5) Set your timing using the notch plate you've got, and go from there.

That would be a great place to start! Run a line from your gas can to the pump, see if that changes anything. Regardless of that, you really should check all the electrical connections-not just a quick "that looks ok" sort of thing...rather do a good job cleaning the male and female connectors and know that that is not the problem. Same with vacuum lines (which I forgot to mention in my previous response)

The pump does indeed get louder as it nears the end of usefulness, or so I have found. It may also just be a symptom of an overly stressed pump. I would imagine that you have read the importance of having a clean tank... It may be that your efi system is in fine order, but isn't getting enough gas due to a clogged pump. Then again, you might have bad connections at a variety of sensors (clean, inspect, and replace pigtails/sensors as needed) Could be as simple as the timing being off...

Bill, Converting to a 5 speed is not difficult, nor is sorting out the electricals (start with cleaning all your connectors). You'll find that the search function on the site will show you many hours worth of reading covering all your subjects (including some tips on converting/refreshing the slow wiper issues) Welcome to the site, and happy reading!

carfax will be of no use to you, the vin number is too short for their system to recognize. Hope for service records (something you should try to get whenever purchasing any vehicle). The L series engine is fairly bulletproof and easy enough to work on, so if everything else looks good (check for rust everywhere), and the price is right, don't let the unknown mileage stop you.

IMO, it's just buildup. Why not spray the tubes with a safe cleaner (simple green comes to mind) and just try cleaning them up a bit?

In all of this work switching parts out, did you take the time to clean thoroughly all the connectors? What condition are your pigtail connectors? How about the connectors that go to the thermotine, water temp sensor, etc...? Can you just push them on and pull them off easily? If so, you probably have crud or looseness in there that causes bad connections. Think about it: You fiddle with things (and end up getting a good connection) and the car runs. After running for a while, the connections loosen up, and you are back to having the same problem. It's not hard, nor does it take much time to go and check them and clean them out really well. If nothing else, doing this will help shorten the list of possible causes.

Out of pure curiosity, I dug up the radiator cap that came with my '79 S130. My cap still had the sticker on, and when I peeled it off there was still a good amount of yellow/gold plating underneath. Since I don't intend to ever use it again (not sure why I hadn't pitched it, to be honest) I cleaned up the corrosion (and removed the plating-it doesn't stand up to sandpaper very well) and shot it with some paint to make the letters stand out better. It appears to me that this is the same cap that Kats posted as original to his 432...

Mitchell, you do want to drive over there...trust me on this!

Something like this Carl? You've seen the tractor trailers that have cloth/vinyl sides, right? The tarp-like material is lighter than aluminum, can allow access from the side, and is durable. I would think that with a solid nose on a trailer (to avoid rocks and other projectiles, perhaps also to provide a lockable area for tools, etc.), the rest could be made of this same heavy duty material. There would need to be a support cage of some sort to hold up the material, but it probably wouldn't need to be welded if it could be bolted or pinned together securely. By having soft walls, you could drive in and get out of the trailer easily (unlike some enclosed trailers) . Just a thought. I realize that my attached rendition is of a very poor quality, but I hope you get the idea.

I heartily recommend this stuff: Motsenbocker's Lift Off #5 Available at Lowe's, Hope Depot, etc. in the paint chemical area. Info about it found here: http://www.dtep.com/liftoff5.htm The one I've posted is for Latex paint, but the company makes other removers (spray paint/graffiti remover, etc.) It is a tad more expensive, but will not harm plastic.

What did your Specialist quote you to repair/replace?

Charlie Osborne sells them though Zed Findings (now at http://www.datsunzparts.com ) You're a faster typer than me, Mr. Garrard... The only question now is how far back the rot goes, as the replacement rails that Charlie sells don't appear to be very long (after the bend) though it is difficult to tell without a side by side comparison...

the CL photos were really too small to get any real idea, but the larger ones really let you get in there... The fuel rail appears to be painted. Please correct me if I am wrong, but the plastic insulator that separates the rail from head support (by the fuel pump) shouldn't be gold.

And what a bargain. Only $249,000! and here are some of the relevant photos!

Something new every day, thanks for that! I've seen those caps fitted on a zx, but thought they were alloys-I did see them from a distance. Yeah clarification!

So far as I know, all ZX (s130) models came with alloys (with the exception of the spare, of course) so hubcaps will not be usable.

Motorsport auto has them. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PIC07 (photo from msa catalog)

Caleb, you won't have any problem with the spray once it has dried...