zbane

No, this is the magnet, and they are quite fragile. Don't know if they were this fragile when new-if not they have become so over the years.

There are a couple 240s in the original "Gone In 60 Seconds" (none were damaged in the making of the movie...) and as an added bonus, the main character drives past Datsun HQ during the big chase scene.

Welcome to the group! You will be able to find information about all your z cars here, that is for sure. Just use the search option, and you will find reading for days (if not weeks...) And it's good that you already seem to know we need photos. We're kind of funny that way. It's an addiction.

The car cranks when there is an outlet for the air in the cylinder (plugs removed)... perhaps an issue with timing? If your pistons are rising (compression stroke) when the valves are closed, as opposed to when the exhaust valve is open, perhaps that would cause the problem.

My little one has the pleasure of having a nice spot on a slanted gravel circular drive, right beneath some sap dripping, pine needle dropping trees. :mad:

You will need to drain some of the coolant from the system before you remove your sensor, but if you don't, it'll drain some of the coolant out when you do remove the sensor. Might as well do it yourself, unless you like having coolant spill all over the front of your engine... Those sensors can be very stubborn to get out. I'd go ahead and hit it with some pb blaster (or your choice of penetrating lubricant) and let it get to work before you try to force anything. For reinstalling the sensor, I would use a bit of silicon tape or thread locker (assuming it's meant for use where liquid is present). I don't have any experience with pipe dope, but I would imagine it would work. If you are going to replace the thermostat, obviously you will need a new gasket. When was the last time the entire thermostat housing was removed from the car? Since you are going to drain some of the fluid out, why not drain a bit more and remove the entire housing so that you can replace the gasket between the housing and the block? If you do this, beware that there is a risk of thermostat housing bolts breaking in the block. Use lubricant and let it sit. For the valve cover, I would (and have) used just a little bit of gasket sealer on the top side of the gasket, to hold it to the valve cover. Once you remove your cover and clean it, you will find little grooves on the bottom mating surface. Just put a little bit of liquid gasket (or similar product) in there. It makes it much easier to get the gasket lined up and held in place when you reinstall the cover. You don't want too much; just enough to hold it in place. You do need to make sure that the gasket remains flat, and doesn't have any gaps. Too much goo can make the surface uneven, even if it looks good to the naked eye.

Now there are quite a few Nissan dealers in DF, as well as quite a few still very operational Datsuns (510s, mainly, though I have seen a couple S130s rolling around). A decent refaccionera should be able to get a hold of a lock cylinder, if it comes to that, and of course there's always the Zona Rosa.

Not so in Mexico City, least that's not been my experience. It's far better just to take it (whatever "it" is) to them.

That's actually what I was looking for when I came across this one. A couple months ago I got a couple of the blueish ones last posted by Stephen. Hot Wheels has already released some of the 2009 models, so start looking!!

Found another color of 2 of 15, alas I only found one.

Carl beat me to it.

When my head gasket blew, there was no oil in the coolant (at least not enough to be noticeable), nor was there an obvious amount of water in the exhaust (though it was winter which made it hard to tell if the exhaust was white or not). However, after driving for about ten minutes, I would notice the temp spike above midway (I have a zx, the gauge is different) and I would hear a "pop." The pop sound was the reservoir lid popping open and vomiting coolant into the bay. What was causing this, in my case anyway, was exhaust gas getting into the coolant and forcing its way out by the only means possible-the reservoir. Check your compression.

Sounds all to familiar... Do a compression check, I'm leaning towards head gasket failure...

Well, allow him to use the 86, if he so chooses. Since the ae86 came out in 1983, we should be comparing similar years. The 1983 Z car was the S130. So the tally using his beloved ae and "86" a=1 e=5 6+86=92 Using the suffix from the same year's Z model (must be allowed, if you/we are to allow his suffix) s=19 19+130=149 And the Z still wins...

And did you know, statistically speaking, that nearly 73% of all statistics are made up on the spot?

If your friend is insisting that the logic "proving" that Toyota (as an entire automotive manufacturer) is better by 15.62% than Datsun (as an entire automotive manufacturer), then he will have to admit that the S30 (as an individual model) is 31.58% better than the ae86 (as an individual model)! S=19 AE=6 6 as a percentage of 19 = 31.58% (thanks boyblunda) So feel free to accept his logic, so long as he accepts that it affects him adversely.

The area code is 828. I took many other shots, these are just the better ones. If you want to see the rest: http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s118/zbane/NC_Zyard/

While searching for some parts at another local yard (and finding that the only Z cars they had were recently crushed) I was told of a yard that had some 30 zcars. The mechanic that told me of this place had been there some 10 years ago, and couldn't remember the name of the place, but was able to give me almost perfect directions (he was off by 2 miles). I had the day off and felt like seeing if this place was still around so I headed off. Three hours later (yes, I drove 3 hours on a 10 year old memory of a place that might still be there...it's a quest and a disease after all) I found the yard. The owner was on site and informed me that he had recently crushed quite a few of the cars after salvaging what he could. Apparently those that he crushed literally tore themselves in half as he tried to move them, the rust was so bad. At any rate, it turns out the guy only works on Datsuns (and the occasional older toyota truck) and he himself has a 240 with a 3.1 stroker. I asked about buying parts, and he said most of the parts he's got are spoken for, but if anyone needs a specific part, he'd be willing to look into what he's got around. No idea if he'd be willing to ship... Some of the cars still seem to have good glass and trim. Plenty of heads and blocks, not many valve covers. All the dashes are in poor shape, but many still have their gauges (with the exception of some clocks...I wonder why). I looked specifically for splash pans on the 240s that I came across. No luck.

Tirerack did fine by me for both my cars. The s130 is happy with it's Yokohamas, the a33 with Sumitomos.

I would imagine there are ways to remove bolts and such without marring them. If this is so, and you don't mind taking the time to be extremely careful, then why not go ahead and do it? I would think (though I may be wrong) that a properly maintained car (no AC leaks/oil leaks, etc.) would be of more value than a semi-maintained completely original car. Of course you can do the "normal" updates-internally regulated alternator, electric water pump and fans, ZX dizzy (instead of points). Just keep the "original" parts for future reinstallation (or sell with the car, should you ever decide to sell).

Very nice! Welcome aboard- you will find all sorts of great advice here! You may also wish to check out hybridz.org where they do all sorts of engine swaps and modifications.

Here are a couple pages from the 79 FSM. "alt" is just that-the wiring diagram for the ZX alternator. Now, I'm not sure about the wiring you are talking about (pigtail). If it came from a different model, I'm not sure that the colors would coincide cross-platform. Regardless, the other pdf is just the magic decoder page for Nissan color abbreviations. I saw that Stephen provided a link to your year's FSM; I hope you've taken the time to download it: it will be of invaluable service to you (trust me on that). cablecodes.pdf alt.pdf

Your model is a completely different beastie, the first Z with a V-6. While it is still a Z car, you might find more useful information at z31.com since that site is dedicated to your vintage. Not sending you away, there's plenty you can learn here about the history of the Z, basic body work stuff, opinions on products, etc., but so far as finding all the info on how to diagnose your car; the pickings will be slim-but we do have a good number of Z31 owners here... But we all want to see photos, regardless...

This may be a bit of a long shot, but it happened to me... The spade connector on the starter solenoid has caused me issues in the past. What I had experienced was a bad connection from the spade not being inside the female portion. It was going in between the insulating sleeve and the connector, making a connection for a while, but eventually worked itself away (not out or visually disconnected) from the metal portion. I pulled it off, pried open the female side, reconnected (and made sure the solenoid side was indeed where it should be) and gently crimped the connection. Problem solved.

I seem to recall an article (or thread) some time back where street racers were losing their cars, and were forced to witness as the car (straight from the impound yard) was placed in the crusher, and crushed. (I wish the convicted racer was forced to push the button him/herself; just the knowledge that they were crushing their own car because they wanted to show off would be forever engraved in their memory). Thousands of dollars in car, rims, tires, go fast parts, all gone in an instant. Some may say that's harsh, but if it gets the attention of those who wish to race on public roads...