zbane

I imagine that westpak will get into the thread sooner or later, but I'll post this now... http://www.sfzcc.com/default.asp

Welcome to the site! Two bits of advice for you to start with: 1) post some pics. We wanna see them (kind of funny like that, ya know?) 2) There really isn't too much flaming here, though sometimes discussions can take some rather ugly turns. If you want to avoid flaming, make use of the search function. It'll become a great friend, providing you with hours (if not days) of reading!

Since it appears that the pump is indeed working (at least when off the car) perhaps there is simply a blockage in the fuel line between tank and pump? WAG, but worth checking, no? On second thought, when you pull the pump off the car, are there any signs that it is getting fuel? If so, perhaps a blockage after the pump?

And now it's white! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1969-240z-production-number-383-COLLECTORS-VERY-RARE_W0QQitemZ320265771006QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item320265771006&_trksid=p3756.m14.l1308

This may be a silly response, and is not meant to offend, but are you sure you are installing the correct fuse? Also, do you have the original radio installed or did someone butcher the electricals (as is often done) to install an aftermarket head unit?

In addition to asking your local mechanics, here's a good one for you: Ask your FedEx, UPS, USPS, and DHL drivers. Seriously. I drove the zx to work a while back and the DHL driver stopped and talked to me about it. He then listed off several in the area that were just sitting idle, possibly for sale.

Do you have the headlight washers in the sugar scoops? Leather or cloth interior? Also, out of curiosity, what is your build date? If you provide the build date and model number in your signature or under your username (modified through your user control panel), we will be able to help you in a more efficient manner in the future. btw, welcome to the site and congrats on the Z!

As a proud owner/caretaker of a 79 ZX, I must say go for it-as long as you can handle dealing with whatever may be wrong with it. However, as everyone has stated (and this generally goes for all old cars), you will most likely not get out of it what you've put into it at the selling time. Sure, there are exceptions to that, but but for most of us it's the truth. What you need to consider is this: Is this car something that I will enjoy working on and driving, or is it something that will bog me down with it's variety of issues? There are many who dismiss the S130 as a lounge lizard. Is this fair? Perhaps in direct comparison to it's older siblings. However, if you consider the S130 on it's own merits, it really is a nice car. It may lack the pure sports car mentality of the S30, but it has other things going for it. Great comfort for long drives and pretty good handling in all situations (I've driven mine in snow and on icy roads-handles just as well as any other rear wheel drive car). Would it dominate a track in its stock form? No, it wallows a bit in the corners, and the emission stuff saps much of the power from it. It is still a great car to drive, and pretty easy to work on (assuming you have patience and a willingness to learn a pretty sharp curve). Regarding yours: only you can decide, but those of us here can and will be a great resource. We do need photos (we're funny like that) in order to point out potential areas of concern and reasonable fixes. If I had been a member here at the time I bought by ZX, I most likely would have passed on it (though perhaps not, I couldn't get the car out of my mind...it was calling me...), but I would have had a much better idea of what I was getting into (FRAME RAILS!!!). Ultimately it's up to you. You need to decide on what you want out of the car, and how much you are willing to put into the car (and that doesn't just mean cash-it means the whole shebang).

And a slight continuation of the sub-sub hijack: Stephen, I realize that once the mirrors are set, they pretty much stay were they are, but wouldn't it be a simple procedure to swap contacts at the harness (on the back of the switch)? As I recall, there is enough wire to do just that.

Darbji, the weather here in Western NC is getting to be truly wonderful. Just think of getting down here to drive the Dragon once you feel better!

And to consider your side note- I wonder why they didn't put power seats in the S130. As Will stated several years ago in this thread, it is interesting to see a bit of parts bin mentality at work. The overhead map light orb is identical to that in my ZX, as are the power mirror switches. The window switches are a bit different though. Hijack complete; this thread will now continue in it's normal (?) fashion.

clean off as much of the gunk as you can (Simple Green is a great product for this) and open the filler hole. If you can feel oil at the lip of the filler, you are good to go, though it might be a good idea to drain it anyway-who knows how old it is!

I have a couple used ones, yours for shipping. They do have some rust on them, mainly at the bottom edge, but are free of dents. I'll take and post photos if you are interested. (I have absolutely no idea how much they would cost to ship). BTW-you might wish to add what year and model you have (79 s130) to your signature. It would make things easier for everyone. Just a suggestion, nothing more.

I know that the gas tank from the S130 is different from those on the S30, but this still may be of help. I pulled the tank the other day and found a ventilation tube completely disconnected. Apparently it had been off for quite some time, considering the amount of paint that had been eaten off of the surrounding area. I must admit that I am pleased to have found the source for a very intermittent smell of raw fuel, and that the car hasn't just caught fire for no apparent reason... My point being: poor fuel economy may not be a purely mechanical issue-there may be a connection that is not good, or completely off somewhere beyond view.

The antenna on my 79 has no provision for an automatic stop at 1/2 mast. Attached are two pages (one upload) from the 79 fsm with wiring and troubleshooting. Perhaps by combining what Stephen uploaded with these pages you will be able to mock up what you need. FWIW Body_Electrical.pdf

Sulio, have you ever considered making a calendar or coffee table photo collection of all your shots? Seriously, your stuff is great!

Just a couple little thoughts of what to look for/check- When you removed the AFM for cleaning, did you notice any cracks in the rubber boot? Also, did you clean the electrical connectors from the AFM? Perhaps it didn't get reconnected completely, perhaps some corrosion has gotten in there over the winter? Then again, it could me some muck in the fuel lines (starting at the tank, of course)... Just start by checking everything you did earlier, then proceed to electrical connections in general, then check the overall health of the fuel system (switch the order as you wish, but those would be the areas I would check).

Yokohama Avids! Great price to performance ratio!!!

Welcome aboard, it's nice to see another 79! I might suggest making just a couple little upgrades, nothing major, and see how it feels. These upgrades really just make sense, and might even be considered proper maintenance: 1. Tokico struts, or similar semi/performance struts 2. Lighter aftermarket rims (though not necessary) and a set of performance tires (several of us are running on Yoko Avid Something you should do is check your brake lines-they may be originals...

There are two floats, it is possible that the connections that transmit levels to the gauge are corroded. It is also possible that the electrical connectors are loose, disconnected, or corroded. While the thread I am about to link to may not relate to your current situation, I have the feeling you will be needing to read it sooner or later... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22301

Curious about one thing: Is the radio original or after market? If it's after market, who knows what electrical lines were severed to get that working. I agree with Stephen about the switches. Remove your door panels and check connections. I would wager that they are corroded and not making contact somewhere.

Pop the hood, look just to the right of the radiator cap (passenger side) on the radiator support crossmember. There should be a sticker there giving you your three digit paint code. If not, just post a good photo of your paint. If you choose this method, go for a section of the car that rarely sees sunlight, like the spare tire wheel well. FWIW

Thanks, Brandon! There certainly were some nice sounding cars going by, be they stock or modified (there is something nice to the sound of the wastegate opening). I wonder how many of the cars in your vid are members here?

Arne, that's perfect. I just wanted everyone to see just how "parted out" a car could be, and all I see left on yours are some panels, and the aforementioned suspension. Great job recycling as much as possible, and helping to keep so many others motoring!

I've always wondered what happens to race cars that have been "retired." Looks like some of them end up on epay! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___NISSAN-ZX-T-LOLA-T810-GTP-RACE-CAR_W0QQitemZ300226089869QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item300226089869ebayphotohosting Wouldn't it be nice...