zbane

Arne, do you have any photos of the stripped out shell so that all may see just how much can be removed before being considered DOA (or in the yellow cars case, almost DOA)?

Agreed. The Solstice and its Saturn cousin are sharp. The only problem with both is their utter lack of interior space. It's so cramped in there that I couldn't even get in one to test drive. Being 6'4" with size 12 feet makes finding a "fitting" sports car (for a reasonable price) difficult. On that same token, a friend of mine offered to let me drive his 350, I sat in it and felt that I was sitting in a truck, due to having to slide the seat all the way back, sitting bolt upright so that I could work the pedals while barely clearing the steering wheel with my knees.

John, I remember how happy you were to get her; it's sad to see you letting her go... I hope that someone who loves her as much as you have will find that little beauty, and I honestly wish I had the cash to take her off your hands Of course if you were interested in trading for an I30...

When I went last year, there were 2 motorcycle fatalities on just the day I was there... The roads are not for the faint of heart, nor for those that feel they can go fast because they've got "fast" cars (or motorcycles).

It's not for a Z31 (300zx). The 280zx nomenclature is S130, and I can tell that that is what this one is for by the headlight bucket cutouts. Though the one being listed in the ebay link you've posted is indeed for a Z31, as it states.

Just don't try to shift using the wrong stick...!

Symmetrical, BRE or Sharp, and/or pinstripes. I think racing stripes work very well with the contours of the Z, and I do like period correct racing trim (but only on cars set up to back that heritage: racing trim won't make it go faster), but on a monotone car, pinstripes can accentuate the curves very well.

I agree Stephen that the Z would need a lot of work, but the underside does indeed appear clean. It is out of my league in terms of workability, but for someone with more skill/time/storage... The 610, however, was driven in under it's own power (original owner, an instructor at Clemson, died; wife wanted it gone) and apparently had an easy life. Internal parts (head gasket especially) would probably be harder to find than most, but it seems so hard to pass up (partly for its overall condition-interior especially; partly for its rarity)...

And the possible best for last... I won't be saying just how much the guy wants for the KPL, but I will say that I really hope the other person who has 'dibs' on it will not come through...

And a few more photos...

A nice (being a subjective term) 11/77 280 with a fairly solid battery tray area, complete (albeit messy) interior, solid frame rails and floorpans, excellent glass, and a mostly solid body. Certainly not rust free, but possibly worth considering. The owner of the yard is able to sell the entire vehicle (assuming he can find the title). I must admit I am tempted by this one, as well as a different Datsun on the lot (KPL-610 10/72)... The lot has all sorts of goodies, a great Karmann Ghia shell, Porsche 914, two Fiat x1/9s, Fiat 850 (pretty sad), and an S14 240sx, among other goodies. I ended up getting a set of Z hubcaps ($40!) even though I don't need them, but I didn't want them just rotting away...

So-so. What I like: the louvers, whale tail spoiler, side skirts, wheel flares, iron cross rims. Interesting: use of a Cavalier front bumper. Seems a bit out of place, but I appreciate the creativity needed to find a replacement part off of a completely different vehicle. I wonder how much work went into making it fit; perhaps it was a fairly simple procedure. Just finding s piece that would fit the s30's lines so well would take some patience (unless you just went to another s30) Don't particularly care for the rear lip and tail pipe treatment, nor the seats. It is interesting though. Lot's of work and love went into that one!

Here ya go: Lot's of clips to watch, but you will have fun doing so.

Not always. If there is corrosion, it is usually a white or green residue. It would be best to go from connection to connection and clean them all, then apply some dielectric grease (available at most all parts stores). The function of the grease is to improve conductivity and slow/prevent future corrosion. You may find that some of your connectors have become rather fragile, and they will break. Stephen did a great write up on replacing the FI connectors; I just searched for it but couldn't find it (perhaps he will post the link).

Welcome to the site! Speaking for all of us here, we would love to see some photos of your Z cars!

My guess would be crud in the lines. Have you taken a peek inside your gas tank? I wouldn't be surprised if there is all sorts of stuff in there... Before you go and spend more money, check the tank.

Adam, this isn't a blow off answer, especially since people here have found ways to improve performance on the L28, but you will have better luck finding answers to this particular answer at hybridz.org If it's been done, it's been done over there...

Refresh is I dare to say, almost done. I've been so busy with other things... The dash is finally getting close, and once it's done, that's it! Bill, how bad are your steering wheels? I've a spare that might be savable.

The grip is plastic, and for all I know there isn't anything out there that will recondition it. I might think it possible to stop its deterioration, however. This first thought is just a wild guess- Liquid electrical tape. While I have never used it, it seems like something that might do the trick. Just clean the wheel thoroughly and start "painting" the stuff on. Two bonuses to this idea: 1) it's available in different colors. 2) Your steering wheel will not conduct electricity :stupid: My thought behind using this stuff is that it would fill the cracks that have formed, and hopefully prevent further problems. The second idea would involve applying a special plastic/vinyl paint that would seal the wheel. Follow that up with a good quality leather steering wheel wrap. Like I said, they were just a couple odd suggestions

Exact build date? No. However, you should see on the door jamb a plate that lists the build month and year.

Steve, I was thinking along similar lines and I became curious. It seems to me that one of the features Nissan emphasized in their US sales of the Z was the Price to Fun ratio. So I searched for an Inflation Adjustment Calculator and ran a couple numbers to see if that ratio had been changed between 71 and 07 (no real reason for choosing 71). http://www.westegg.com/inflation $30,000 (2007) = $5676.41 (1971) Unfortunately, it seems fairly close (yet so far away)

To answer your question Stephen, yes they are open. The early version (as on my car) of the vents seem to simply allow the heat from the engine to dissipate quicker when stationary. I would imagine (but have no way of testing) that they also help with air circulation while driving (only makes sense, that). The later version vents (originally on the turbo cars only, later on all s130 cars) seems more functional at speed. The left hand vent seems designed to pull air down into the bay, and aims this fresh air directly at the J pipe and intake manifold. The vent is in two parts-the "triangular" part, and the trapezoid. Both sides of the ZXT hood have this rather large (and ugly-IMO) trapezoid, and it is obviously meant to get as much hot air out as possible.

Well, mine is 4/79; #150591 and I've got parts from 5/79 #152671. Looks like I've got you surrounded!

releasing the pressure is not a hard thing to do at all. There is the FSM way, and there are other ways as well. I would imagine that you've probably come across several threads about just that.

YES. I suppose you don't have to, but it'll happen anyway, and will be very messy (not to mention unsafe).