zbane

Adam, this isn't a blow off answer, especially since people here have found ways to improve performance on the L28, but you will have better luck finding answers to this particular answer at hybridz.org If it's been done, it's been done over there...

Refresh is I dare to say, almost done. I've been so busy with other things... The dash is finally getting close, and once it's done, that's it! Bill, how bad are your steering wheels? I've a spare that might be savable.

The grip is plastic, and for all I know there isn't anything out there that will recondition it. I might think it possible to stop its deterioration, however. This first thought is just a wild guess- Liquid electrical tape. While I have never used it, it seems like something that might do the trick. Just clean the wheel thoroughly and start "painting" the stuff on. Two bonuses to this idea: 1) it's available in different colors. 2) Your steering wheel will not conduct electricity :stupid: My thought behind using this stuff is that it would fill the cracks that have formed, and hopefully prevent further problems. The second idea would involve applying a special plastic/vinyl paint that would seal the wheel. Follow that up with a good quality leather steering wheel wrap. Like I said, they were just a couple odd suggestions

Exact build date? No. However, you should see on the door jamb a plate that lists the build month and year.

Steve, I was thinking along similar lines and I became curious. It seems to me that one of the features Nissan emphasized in their US sales of the Z was the Price to Fun ratio. So I searched for an Inflation Adjustment Calculator and ran a couple numbers to see if that ratio had been changed between 71 and 07 (no real reason for choosing 71). http://www.westegg.com/inflation $30,000 (2007) = $5676.41 (1971) Unfortunately, it seems fairly close (yet so far away)

To answer your question Stephen, yes they are open. The early version (as on my car) of the vents seem to simply allow the heat from the engine to dissipate quicker when stationary. I would imagine (but have no way of testing) that they also help with air circulation while driving (only makes sense, that). The later version vents (originally on the turbo cars only, later on all s130 cars) seems more functional at speed. The left hand vent seems designed to pull air down into the bay, and aims this fresh air directly at the J pipe and intake manifold. The vent is in two parts-the "triangular" part, and the trapezoid. Both sides of the ZXT hood have this rather large (and ugly-IMO) trapezoid, and it is obviously meant to get as much hot air out as possible.

Well, mine is 4/79; #150591 and I've got parts from 5/79 #152671. Looks like I've got you surrounded!

releasing the pressure is not a hard thing to do at all. There is the FSM way, and there are other ways as well. I would imagine that you've probably come across several threads about just that.

YES. I suppose you don't have to, but it'll happen anyway, and will be very messy (not to mention unsafe).

However, at the signup stage on the site, there is not selection for a 79 zx, only a 79 z... but I would love to see some photos and know the build date!

Bob, that's just wrong!

You shouldn't need to brute force the unit out. Just remove the glove box access door, the stem it connects to, and collapse the glove box to remove it. (sounds easier than it is, but it's not too bad). Then undo the wiring harness on the passenger side of the unit (closest to you). Unscrew the only screw holding the gauge cluster in, and gently pull it toward you. The other end is secured in a metal clasp of sorts, but it doesn't apply any pressure. Just wiggle it back and forth (toward the firewall/toward the passenger compartment) and move it toward the glovebox area... Slow and steady is the key!

Compression check NOW! I had a similar situation, and went the new thermostat/cap route. Didn't solve a thing, and I ended up pretty much stranded with...a blown head gasket. The reason for the overflow in my case (at least I think it to be the reason) was that the engine was pumping exhaust gas into the coolant line, thus causing the eruption of coolant...

I second what Rick mentioned, a new set of cables and a tie down are definitely in order! Pics would help quite a bit, and if you haven't found a Factory Service Manual yet, take a look at carfiche.com I believe they've got one for your year ZX, and you will need it! There aren't many users here with S130s, and even fewer with the digital dash.

John, you are right, there is a pick up tube that can corrode. Adam, you are just starting on you Z car learning curve, so don't feel stupid. I borrowed the work vehicle (when my S130 was down), took it home knowing it was low on gas. My intent was to fill it in the morning (using the company account of course) because the gas light had just come on. I parked on the slightest of inclines-something like a 5 degree down grade. The next morning it simply wouldn't start. The truck would crank and crank, but nothing else. I thought it was a bad battery; after all the truck did have gas. Turns out that that tiny amount of tilt was just enough to keep the fuel from getting into the the pick up line...:stupid: I ended up having to call the general manager for a jump (just in case) and fuel. Talk about embarrassing.

you've got a ZX, and that red square in the middle of the instrument cluster is for the on board diagnostic system. Just to the right of it there is a push knob. With the car running, push it. It SHOULD go through the systems and flash things like (if the radiator is low) RAD LOW (or some such). If a headlamp is out, it'll tell you.

WOW! talk about a rough starting point! Great job so far, and congratulations on saving that Z from a long lingering death!

Does the sound only occur when you are driving, or can you replicate in in neutral? If so, perhaps you can rev it up from the engine bay and better figure where the noise is coming from. I would assume that you have checked every little thing that can come loose: air filter box, fuel rail, the plate that holds on the AFM, manifolds, fan shroud, radiator, etc. And, yes, those are just some WAG's.

There is also Tabco, the manufacturer of the panels that blackdragon sells. http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm

Check all your electrical connections. Somewhere in the system, the car thinks it is no longer running, and shuts down. Could be a bad connection at the AFM, or at the oil pressure sender, or anywhere else for that matter. Don't just eyeball the connections. Disconnect, clean, and apply some dielectric grease. Could also be crap in your fuel tank suffocating the system. You say that several mechanics have looked at it. What did they do? Where did they look? And this may be the most important question: Do you have a Factory Service Manual? Odds are that the mechanics you gave money to DON'T HAVE ONE, and were basically guessing...badly.

A fellow member and I tore apart a zx parts car that resembled yours, at least the rust did. I needed to get the seats out, but couldn't get the rusted bolts out, so I just ripped the seats out, supports and all. Seriously. Grab and yank. If you were to get into any accident in that rust monster, you would be very badly injured. Sell the parts, and start over.

Got back from the convention today, there was so much cool stuff to check out in the three halls, it took me 8 hours to explore just two of them. Wasn't even able to check out the third. There simply wasn't enough time... I had to represent the Z community, as you can see from the first photo. I made some interesting contacts from around the globe, so hopefully some good things are to come. The helicopter is fully decked out for broadcast, and could be purchased on site. All one needed was a $30,000 downpayment and who knows how much more... MINI Clubman satellite uplink car. Wonder how that parabolic dish impacts the handling... And of course, being the trekkie that I am, I had to drop by the Star Trek Experience...

Yes, the engine will drop in-it bolts up the same as the L26 you don't want to use. However, what you are doing is converting from a carburated engine to a fuel injected one (and a turbo one, at that). The devil is in the details. You will need the correct wiring harness, upgraded fuel pump, ECU, a fuel return line, new FI hosing, stronger alternator, new distributor, different exhaust manifold (maybe)... But the engine is a direct swap.

Just buy both! It'll work out, one for you and one for her! Kidding, of course. They both have their benefits, as mentioned by those above. I think the best thing to do is to go and actually drive them both, see which has the right "feel," and go from there.

If the fuel pump is going out, more likely than not you will be able to hear it whining. I would be inclined to think that there is some crud in the tank, and it is getting sucked into to sending unit, clogging the pump's filter-or just your in-tank filter. After the car has set for a bit, the crud settles down/around and allows fuel to easily pass once again. Pull the sending unit, and take a look at the interior condition of your tank. Just because you drained the old gas does not mean you drained all the crap out of the tank...