zbane

However, at the signup stage on the site, there is not selection for a 79 zx, only a 79 z... but I would love to see some photos and know the build date!

You shouldn't need to brute force the unit out. Just remove the glove box access door, the stem it connects to, and collapse the glove box to remove it. (sounds easier than it is, but it's not too bad). Then undo the wiring harness on the passenger side of the unit (closest to you). Unscrew the only screw holding the gauge cluster in, and gently pull it toward you. The other end is secured in a metal clasp of sorts, but it doesn't apply any pressure. Just wiggle it back and forth (toward the firewall/toward the passenger compartment) and move it toward the glovebox area... Slow and steady is the key!

Compression check NOW! I had a similar situation, and went the new thermostat/cap route. Didn't solve a thing, and I ended up pretty much stranded with...a blown head gasket. The reason for the overflow in my case (at least I think it to be the reason) was that the engine was pumping exhaust gas into the coolant line, thus causing the eruption of coolant...

I second what Rick mentioned, a new set of cables and a tie down are definitely in order! Pics would help quite a bit, and if you haven't found a Factory Service Manual yet, take a look at carfiche.com I believe they've got one for your year ZX, and you will need it! There aren't many users here with S130s, and even fewer with the digital dash.

John, you are right, there is a pick up tube that can corrode. Adam, you are just starting on you Z car learning curve, so don't feel stupid. I borrowed the work vehicle (when my S130 was down), took it home knowing it was low on gas. My intent was to fill it in the morning (using the company account of course) because the gas light had just come on. I parked on the slightest of inclines-something like a 5 degree down grade. The next morning it simply wouldn't start. The truck would crank and crank, but nothing else. I thought it was a bad battery; after all the truck did have gas. Turns out that that tiny amount of tilt was just enough to keep the fuel from getting into the the pick up line...:stupid: I ended up having to call the general manager for a jump (just in case) and fuel. Talk about embarrassing.

you've got a ZX, and that red square in the middle of the instrument cluster is for the on board diagnostic system. Just to the right of it there is a push knob. With the car running, push it. It SHOULD go through the systems and flash things like (if the radiator is low) RAD LOW (or some such). If a headlamp is out, it'll tell you.

WOW! talk about a rough starting point! Great job so far, and congratulations on saving that Z from a long lingering death!

Does the sound only occur when you are driving, or can you replicate in in neutral? If so, perhaps you can rev it up from the engine bay and better figure where the noise is coming from. I would assume that you have checked every little thing that can come loose: air filter box, fuel rail, the plate that holds on the AFM, manifolds, fan shroud, radiator, etc. And, yes, those are just some WAG's.

There is also Tabco, the manufacturer of the panels that blackdragon sells. http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm

Check all your electrical connections. Somewhere in the system, the car thinks it is no longer running, and shuts down. Could be a bad connection at the AFM, or at the oil pressure sender, or anywhere else for that matter. Don't just eyeball the connections. Disconnect, clean, and apply some dielectric grease. Could also be crap in your fuel tank suffocating the system. You say that several mechanics have looked at it. What did they do? Where did they look? And this may be the most important question: Do you have a Factory Service Manual? Odds are that the mechanics you gave money to DON'T HAVE ONE, and were basically guessing...badly.

A fellow member and I tore apart a zx parts car that resembled yours, at least the rust did. I needed to get the seats out, but couldn't get the rusted bolts out, so I just ripped the seats out, supports and all. Seriously. Grab and yank. If you were to get into any accident in that rust monster, you would be very badly injured. Sell the parts, and start over.

Got back from the convention today, there was so much cool stuff to check out in the three halls, it took me 8 hours to explore just two of them. Wasn't even able to check out the third. There simply wasn't enough time... I had to represent the Z community, as you can see from the first photo. I made some interesting contacts from around the globe, so hopefully some good things are to come. The helicopter is fully decked out for broadcast, and could be purchased on site. All one needed was a $30,000 downpayment and who knows how much more... MINI Clubman satellite uplink car. Wonder how that parabolic dish impacts the handling... And of course, being the trekkie that I am, I had to drop by the Star Trek Experience...

Yes, the engine will drop in-it bolts up the same as the L26 you don't want to use. However, what you are doing is converting from a carburated engine to a fuel injected one (and a turbo one, at that). The devil is in the details. You will need the correct wiring harness, upgraded fuel pump, ECU, a fuel return line, new FI hosing, stronger alternator, new distributor, different exhaust manifold (maybe)... But the engine is a direct swap.

Just buy both! It'll work out, one for you and one for her! Kidding, of course. They both have their benefits, as mentioned by those above. I think the best thing to do is to go and actually drive them both, see which has the right "feel," and go from there.

If the fuel pump is going out, more likely than not you will be able to hear it whining. I would be inclined to think that there is some crud in the tank, and it is getting sucked into to sending unit, clogging the pump's filter-or just your in-tank filter. After the car has set for a bit, the crud settles down/around and allows fuel to easily pass once again. Pull the sending unit, and take a look at the interior condition of your tank. Just because you drained the old gas does not mean you drained all the crap out of the tank...

I was raised around MG's, and to this day I blame my father for my love of finicky, hard to find parts for cars. (He happily accepts the blame with a chuckle.) We had many, but I loved our TF. The J2 that was to be mine was sadly sold before we completed the restoration of it... I remember seeing my first Z car, though I couldn't tell you what year the car was. I loved the recessed headlights, and since I didn't know what kind of car it was, I started looking. Mistakenly I thought it was a Ferrari Dino, but for a kid of 9 years (who only saw the Z once) it's a fairly logical jump. Hence my introduction to Ferraris, and love of the designs (but not all of them). James Bond enters my life with a gorgeous DB5. Wow, and the bulletproof plate would have been on my option list (along with the ejector seat). The XKE...drool... My Grandma's Riviera... I still wish I had been able to get that car before she traded it in. It was about that time that I found out what a Z car was. And rediscovered Jaguar in the form of the XJS (the earlier years-not a 1990 + model...ford taurus heater controls...in a Jag?!?!). Then of course there was the Lancia Stratos, Bricklin,...

When I first got my S130, I thought about doing the swap to the RB26. Obviously I haven't done that, I just love the l28. However, if I were to get another... When I was contemplating the switch, I poked about hybridz and found a great write up on the whole procedure. Granted it was for an S30 and therefore wasn't of much use to either of us (other than showing that there would be work to do, not a plug and play procedure-which I already knew it wouldn't be). Lot's of reading to do, but you should be able to save yourself some headaches. Keep in mind this is not for a K, so not all of it will apply, but I imagine some might. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=77962 Of course, if none of it is of any use, my apologies for posting it. And if you change your mind about using the powerplant, I'd be happy to provide you my mailing address... Good luck on the swap, and be sure to post photos of the progress (so that we can all drool...)

One of our own manufactures/sells hatches and hoods: http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/index.html Fort the other parts, I would suggest looking at http://www.motorsportauto.com/

And wiring an RB engine relates to Differential oil how?:stupid:

Two ideas there: Instead of using a caulk gun, get yourself a hand squeeze tube for about $3-4. If you find that you can't get your hand in certain areas, raid the kitchen and find yourself a spoon that you can modify (bend) to suit your needs. Apply silicon to the spoon and go from there. Post pics as well.

Welcome to the site! What sort of issues are you having with the S130? Many issues you should be able to deal with yourself, even with limited mechanical knowledge (speaking from personal experience). Search the archives, you will find many things of great use, even if most of the threads are based on the earlier S30 models. The basics of bodywork and parts preparation are the same, as is the logical progression of troubleshooting various systems (cooling, fuel, etc.). [That was a bit of a blanket statement, but you get the point]. Testing components are about the same, about the only things that are different are in regards to the ecu and disassembly of body parts (only because the S130 has a different body). Get yourself a Factory Service Manual (check carfiche.com, ebay, the classifieds on our site) and a Chilton or Haynes manual. There are also great books that you will find to be suggested/required reading (Wick Humble's guide to the L28 engine for example). Post some photos, and let's all get to work on your newly acquired baby!

zmaster: Check the dates on the threads you are posting to. This one had been dead since 2006 until you resurrected it... I would imagine that the original poster has figured it out by now...

zmaster: Check the dates on the threads you are posting to. This one had been dead since 2005 until you resurrected it...

I can help with the first two, not the rest however. The first photo: The circled item reduces the buzz from the radio that is caused by varying current. The second photo: Yes, that's a light.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-fairlady-1975-fairlady_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ220220329487QQsspagenameZRSSQ3aBQ3aSRCHQ3aUSQ3a101 Currently at $635. There are some oddities in the description, but worth a look if someone wants a real project. Location Bellflower California.