zbane

Check all the rubber grommets that pass through the firewall (tricky to get to the ones behind the slave cylinders). Odds are you'll find one (or more) cracked-though a cursory visual inspection may not show faults. (I'm speaking from experience here)

I'm surprised no one has said "the addition of an 'x' to the name immediately disqualifies it's 'z'ness..." I'd say the car retains the 'z' essence if any modifications go to further the original design. As such, using newer versions of parts, upgraded suspension/brakes/wheels, etc., and body kits/pieces that improve aerodynamics are fine by me. So far as engine swaps, I think along the same lines. While v-8 transplants aren't really my thing, I do understand and respect the reasons. (case in point: years ago I was contemplating buying an e-type coupe that had undergone the sbc treatment. In my eyes, it was still a Jag, but one that would be much more reliable while still being fun....sadly, the idea was nixed by she who must be obeyed). However, were I to swap engines, I'd prefer to keep the straight six configuration. I do like the idea of keeping it in the immediate family, but distant relatives would be acceptable (I consider the straight six from the BMW M cars as cousins). Would it still be a 'z'? Eh, maybe...but would it still have the essence of a 'z'? I believe so.

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3057285773.html

Just thought I'd post about this one. No relation to seller, etc... (Side note: is that the passenger side mirror so many people are looking for?) http://tricities.craigslist.org/cto/3130427781.html

There's a reason for that... it's a unibody! (Just poking fun at ya...)

You could always look into the under hood insulation that's on modern cars... Sure, that's all fitted to the make/model, but if you could find it in a bulk/moldable form... An added benefit of using the modern stuff is that, in addition to deadening engine noise, it's also a fire retardant/suppressant.

I've always had that happen with my ZX, as well as with my 01 infi. It's not something I'd be concerned with. As to your problems filling with certain gas delivery systems, that boils down to the angle/depth you're inserting the nozzle. The (for lack of the proper term) fuel relief tube (runs mostly parallel with the fill tube) is meant to signal the station pump when to stop pumping. If the nozzle is in the wrong way, it'll splash back fuel in such a way as to provide a false positive on tank level. Trial and error, and you'll soon know just how to seat that thing in there.

And from an s130 guy, be sure to post some of your 79!

Have a photo of it somewhere? It'd be interesting to see what a roof spoiler would look like...

Where did you install the unit? I've been thinking of doing the same, and was planning on removing the quadrophonic sound knob on the other side of the ashtray.

Thumbs up for Rockauto as well. I've ordered a few things for the infiniti from them-Customer Service is great, should you receive the wrong part (as I did, well, right part-wrong size). Good company, one of the first I look to when searching parts for myself or those who post on this site looking for whatever item...

I'd start by checking the fuel system, from the interior of the tank forward... might be some crud getting in the mesh screen on the end of the fuel sending unit, and if there's some there you will most likely have some in the smaller cone shaped filter located in the fuel pump (assuming it's the original)... then forward to the engine compartment fuel filter.

Hey now.... while I don't much care for those wheels, at least the rest of it was done (or so it appears from the photos) with care and attention to detail. The t-tops certainly look better than most of the one size fits most sunroofs people install...

hmmm.... perhaps there are differences between my 79 and your 83... On my car (with aftermarket stereo) I have a switch (factory) for raising and lowering the antenna-same with the stereo I pulled from an 81.

Here's an option you might consider... Don't mess with using the receiver's auto up/down of the antenna, just use the manual up/down selector. It's one less thing to fiddle with, and you'll be able to listen to music with the antenna down (useful in the car wash)

That's what I was thinking... even though none of those parts will work for my car, I still liked seeing it. Who knows what treasures might be found! I know many parts are hard to find, or find in usable condition. Maybe someone will find a goodie in there. (forgot to mention in the opening post the standard disclaimer: I am not related to, or associated with the seller...etc. And I forgot to edit out the phone number. Admins: Please rectify that error on my part. I'd hate for this person to get random phone calls in 5 years, should this thread ever be resurrected.)

Thought this might of intersest... Dash in the photo seems to have a couple cracks. http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/2965451507.html

Looks like a great time...though I didn't see any love for the s130...

Ah, don't forget the sound of shifting the gears (engine off)... I very much enjoy the notch/notch sound... or the sound of the hood mechanism latching from the safe position to fully closed (I assume no one here just slams the hood from fully open to closed, so you should know what I mean)

No longer mine, but my ex has a 98 M Roadster... Amazing how similar it is in feel and attitude as the s130... (not heavy and bloated as many of you might think :stupid: ) Here in the twisties of WNC, having a car that corners is a wonderful thing, and they both felt "right." Yes, the M has much more power (stupid fast) and would skunk the ZX on the straightaways-not so much on the curves. I told her that were she to wreck it beyond the point of repair, that I'd gut it for the engine/drivetrain (and as much of the interior as I could) to transplant...

I've a ZX also, and it came with a full dash cap. Just as Kurby said, get a full one, not a half cap. I didn't even realize my dash had a cap, the color matched right, and it was fitted/adheared well... though I did notice some warping ahead of the speedo cluster. Motorsport auto sells the covers : http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/DC/50-2023 though depending on how badly your dash is cracked, you might be able to repair it yourself-others have done so for not much money.

The first thing you're going to need to do before considering any performance upgrades is get the car running right. If the car is running poorly, or has some intermittent issues, adding new "go fast" stuff will only create more problems when trying to track down and rectify the problems. Example: Let's say you upgraded the cam, but you were having fuel delivery issues before you did so. You're still going to have fuel delivery issues, and because of that, you're going to think you just wasted a bunch of money on a new cam-and you'll end up either throwing a bunch of new parts at the car (figuratively, and possibly literally) or you'll give up out of frustration. Get the car sorted out first, go from there. So far as upgrading things while replacing worn out items, there are a couple areas where this can be done. You'll probably be in need of new struts. Replacing with Tokico Blues (or struts of your personal choice) is an easy enough thing to do. Sure, it won't give you more horsepower, but will make the car handle better. You can also look into replacing the exhaust system-from the exhaust manifold back, or just from the catalytic converter back. Redoing your exhaust might net you a few horses, though I don't know if it would be enough to notice or not. I've not done it myself, and am not an expert on these things-but a search of the site will provide you with quite a bit of reading material on the topic. @BGM: I am curious: Besides attempting to be humorous, just how does your post help answer the very reasonable question posted by whitezeppelin91?

Just so happened that I had the drivers side carpet loose, so here are a few pics to show the velcro. It appears to me that this was indeed original, as it's stitched quite well. There are two velcro tabs-the forward part straps across the area underneath the center console (holding radio), the rearward tab goes under the center armrest. Also, there were several strips of heavy duty tape holding the carpet to the floors-some of those strips, upon removal of the carpet, stayed with the carpet/padding (shown in photo), others were more attached to the car and chose to stay there (with some of the padding attached). No pics of that, as I cleaned that up some time back (when I recolored the carpets). Driver side velcro has the hook component, passenger side has the loop/fuzzy part. Passenger side has longer straps of velcro to go across the tran tunnel, as what you can see in these pics clearly won't bridge the gap. From what I gather from your posts, your carpet is far from original, and therefor not molded/fitted. If I were in your situation, I'd get the heavy duty velcro with adhesive backing, and apply several strips (leaving the outer tape cover intact until you've got the carpet just where you want it. I'd put a strip up on the firewall-an upper anchor; one strip on the outer edge, where the floor goes vertical to meet the door; one strip along the upper edge of the transmission tunnel; and one close to the seat mount. Once you've gotten the carpet just right, remove the tape-exposing the sticky, then lay the carpet down down on it-apply pressure, and repeat elsewhere... As to connecting the two sides together, I'm sure you could figure out a reasonable way to do that too.

I don't know if the velcro was original or not, nor do I have any photos with me of where it attaches... I'll take some after work tonight and post them tomorrow for reference.

What have you already done to the car in order to get it back on the road? I would assume you've changed all the filters, checked vacuum lines, fuel lines, etc... Have you peeked into the gas tank to check for rust and sediment?