zbane

First off, depressurize the system in the way detailed in Stephen's post. Your plastic filter is not intended to be mounted on the outlet side of the filter. It is not capable of handling that amount of pressure. IF you must have an additional filter (it is not original equipment), it should be between the tank and filter. Once you have it removed, check on the condition of the little cone filter that is in your fuel pump (assuming you have the original pump). If you are concerned about loosing too much fuel, clamp off your fuel lines with padded clamps so you don't mar the rubber. If that much crud has accumulated in the little filter, I would imagine that you have quite a bit elsewhere in the system. While the system is depressurized, you might as well replace the fuel filter that is located in the engine bay, as this is likely clogged as well. Don't reuse the clamps that are on your car right now. Pony up the additional few bucks and get fuel line hose clamps. They are designed to not pinch or chew up the rubber and provide a uniform amount of pressure from all sides. Also, please use smaller photos...

I'm quite surprised that there hasn't been a remake of "The A-team," either for film or TV. I suppose if the writer strike continues, they may just dig out the old scripts... And I do believe that the strike is the reason for the "new" Knight Rider. Several years ago, Hasselhoff was slated to revive the series, I imagine that the scripts being used for this version are the ones that were shelved before.

Interesting. I've got an s130 as well, and have no issues in the rain. Period. The only time the car gets squirrelly is on snow (not bad), slush (progressively worse), and ice (oh sh.t that was close). Currently I am running on Yokohama AVIDs, but before that I had Kelly Chargers. How is your suspension? Regarding your cracked dash-you really should reinstall it and get yourself a full dash cap. Short of that, you could custom fab a dash like those with track cars.

I know you said center console, but I remembered that Juan (panamared) prepped and painted his dash with the krylon stuff. Here is a link to how his turned out. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25785

I was thinking of my father's collection of 40-50's MGs. We may have to worry about rust, but at least we don't have to worry about termites.

When color tv was a novelty. When AM radio was king. "Art Deco" was "in." And even older: Cars with wooden chassis'

If I am reading this correctly, your started spins, but doesn't catch the flywheel. To me, that sounds like either a faulty solenoid, or the spring that engages/returns the lever is either broken, disengaged, or on the wrong side of the lever. Also, that lever will slide out of the way if it gets tilted the wrong way. It's pretty easy to check. Just pull the starter, remove the solenoid and starter motor from the mounting plate and take a peek at how things look.

Yeah, but you're in Arkansas... Just Kidding (I'm in North Carolina, so I shouldn't talk). One item that should be on the list is the good old 8 track player (either car mounted-externally to the dash) or the deluxe home stereo with quadraphonic sound.

Actually, Pez, there isn't too much bashing on this site. Occasionally there will be some, but for the most part it's just in jest. You are in luck in that Z cars in your area are generally rust free (or minimally affected) and the pick n pulls in your area have more parts cars than most. Welcome aboard, become familiar with the search function, and have fun reading...

I just turned 35 in November, and I remember all of those...

I thought this question looked familiar. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29351 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29352 I'm not trying to be an a**, but you've got some of the information you require in your previous threads on the same topic. You might consider just adding on to your other threads with continuing questions. Doing so will help anyone who comes along later, since it is possible that they will have the same questions or similar problems. Good luck with your tank, tracking down gremlins can be an irritating process...

Good luck with that. Here is the photo for future reference.

If I were to guess, and that's all this is, I would say that Nissan is keeping the "Skyline" moniker for the Infiniti line. However I think that would be a mistake, not only in regards to the purists, but in regards to the name and the current slug lines in all the adverts. Imagine the marketing: Shift_your Horizons The all new Nissan Skyline. Although something certainly could be done with Infiniti. Only Infiniti can take you to the Skyline. The Infiniti Sklyine (or some such).

My...Precious...

This statement has me worried. You have fuel. You have spark. You have (I assume) vacuum and everything connected nice and tight. Do you have compression? The statement I quoted describes what I was going through just a couple weeks ago. It turned out that I had a blown head gasket. A compression test will help to determine if this is the case or not. Also, regarding poaching parts off a ZX, what year ZX did the manifold and other parts come from? If it is from a 79 model year (build date @ 8/78-5/79) I don't think you would have much trouble. After the 79 model year, things changed ever so slightly (from what I've seen)... This is all pure conjecture, of course.

full house (rain): This thread is about the music that was popular when your Z car was built. That is why the "music" you are listing is of no relevance in this thread. What music was popular when your Z was built? Oh, wait. You don't have a Z car...

Junk yard, Chevy dealership, auto trader type publication, craigslist, ebay...

Agreed, Stephen-that one slipped my mind. If your injector connectors are anything like mine, they are brittle and should be replaced. Search the site here for injector connector upgrades and you should come up with several threads detailing this.

Welcome to the club! I have a 79 ZX and I do really enjoy it. One of the most appealing aspects of our cars (and the earlier Z cars) is the relative ease in fixing them. They are not like the Z31 and later models with extremely tight engine bays and all sorts of sensors to wrangle with. You need to figure out what is "wrong" with the car before you start to "fix" anything. Installing a new exhaust and exhaust manifold my get you a few additional horses, but do you really need them? Is the interior absolutely shot, or does it just need a good thorough cleaning? Before you start digging into things that may actually be in good running order, my advice to you would be to do a good thorough tune up: plugs, oil, filters (oil and fuel), coolant, new fuel lines/vacuum lines (if needed), etc. Check the brakes and brake lines. Inspect the gas tank. General stuff like that will help immensely. Check for rust and fix appropriately. Drive the car for a while and find what it is that you would like to improve upon. Is the car fast enough, but not handle as you would like? If so, we can talk about new suspension components. Does the car handle great, but not have enough verve for you? If that's the case, we can talk about modest upgrades in overall performance. The more specific your questions, the more specific the answers. With specific goals in mind, we can help steer you hard earned cash in the right direction.

This has happened to me twice now, and I think it's great: Pull the car into a shop and pop the hood. Mechanics look at the engine, and in disbelief state "Now that's an engine!"

Potentially stupid questions here: Have you checked that all of your electrical connections are clean and solid, from the sender to the instrument cluster? How clean are the float contact points on the sender itself?

The only issue I have seen with this type of product relates to wax. Members at the housing development where I work have a black BMW 5 series with this product on the nose. It does very well against rock chips, but when you wax the car, you can see the line where the wax bumps up against the film. At first glance it looks like a scratch going across the nose of the car. Of course if one has a lighter colored car I doubt that this would be much of a problem.

VB split off it's Datsun department a while back: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/ Still the same company, though.

First off, I am no expert so my thoughts may be entirely off base. I would think that by replacing the piston rings and verifying that your cylinder clearance is correct, in combination with resurfacing your block and head (if needed) plus new valve guides/seals you should be able to get your compression back up to the 170 range. Regarding your injectors and AFM: Why not have your injectors sent out for a proper cleaning and general check up. Several members here have used Dr.Injector for this and seem to be pleased with price and performance. Injectors can go bad, but why pony up all that cash to replace something that may not be bad? Same thought for the AFM. Check it per the FSM and see if it is working within acceptable parameters. If not, repair or replace. One thing you might want to check would be the rubber unit that connects your AFM to the throttle body. Remove it, clean it, and check for cracks or tears. This part does wear out, and shouldn't break the bank to replace. There have been several threads about replacing your FI connectors (Stephen wrote a detailed thread about using BMW connectors, if I'm not mistaken), and that may be the cause of #4 not working correctly. Have you considered an aftermarket fuel rail? Bo (ktm) has a beautiful setup in his car that really cleans up the engine bay. Attached to his rail is a fuel pressure gauge/return valve. See post 11: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27784 These are just a few things to think about. No need to replace things that aren't broken-might as well apply that money to other improvements. Or at least that's my take on it.

The pictures are!