zbane

a quick search and it appears to be there...and better yet, you can rent a Z! http://local.santacruz.com/Ez+Car+Rental+Z+Zone.327667.111702744.home.html

I would agree that it is some sort of splash guard, though being so small it's hard to see how helpful it would be. For comparison, attached is a photo of a similar unit on my s130. Same location mounted behind the differential, but much larger.

15 minutes outside Santa Cruz... Would that be in Salinas, Monterey, Carmel, Seaside, Gilroy, Pebble Beach... There are several yards in Salinas, but I don't recall just where (never needed when I lived out that way). Gilroy most likely has some, and I recall a couple members mentioning some in the Santa Cruz area itself. Possibly your best bet would be to get up to San Jose, I would think you'd be more likely to find a Z car or three to pull from. There is also a Z club in the area. Here is the link to their site, with a contact email addy. Perhaps you should contact the person while you are there. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/centralcoastzcarclub/

Another thought- Datsun B210. A friend of mine has one in Asheville and several years ago there was quite a snowfall My friend had just got a set of snow tires before the storm (because they were cheap, and he needed new tires). Time for work came around and he jumped in the B and drove off. The snow crews had yet to clear the roads, so he was rather concerned about getting through the mess. Much to his surprise, the little automatic plowed through the snow, passing several stuck 4x4's. Now whenever bad weather strikes, the B210 emerges in all it's rusted glory...

For some time my rear window has been leaking when it rains or I wash the car. Sometimes it would leak quite a bit, other times not so much. Either way, it needed to be stopped. Since the rubber gasket wasn't in terrible shape, I figured I would just try to seal it up with a fine bead of black silicone sealant, rather than order a new weatherstrip set. Overall, it seems to be doing fine, though I just did this yesterday. I applied silicon to one edge at a time, starting at the bottom edge, then the driver side, passenger side, and finally to top edge. It might have made more sense to start at the top edge, but to each their own. The first step was to thoroughly clean the rear window and weatherstrip. To do this, I used the "Invisible Glass" product and a liberal amount of paper towels. After going over the entire unit a couple times, I thought it was as clean as it would ever be. Second step silicon. I cut the plastic applicator at the smallest possible portion, with the intention of keeping the bead small. I started applying the silicon to the small gaps at the corners, and worked it in with the caulk applicator. Then I applied an even bead along the edge of rubber on the glass. Try to not squeeze too hard, as the crimped edge on the silicon will uncrimp and make a mess. Once I had the line of silicon going from corner to corner, I used the caulk finisher to smooth the bead. Apply moderate force on the tip of the spreader, and use a smooth even pressure and pace to form the silicon to the window. If the silicon develops a gap, stop-apply a small amount of silicon to the area ahead of the imperfection, and start again from the corner. Remember to use a smooth, even pressure as you do this. Some silicon was spread onto the glass, roughly 3/4 inch out, but it is a fairly uniform amount of excess and will clean up easily once cured. While I have not yet cut the excess away, I don't see any issues in doing this. If you have access to a garage, do it there. Just as I finished, a neighbor drove by and stirred up a small amount of dust from the gravel drive...of course it settled in the still tacky silicon... So, if your Z is leaking at the hatch window, but you don't think the rubber is shot (or don't have the $$ for a new weatherstrip set) I would suggest trying a refresh using silicon. For about $10 you can do this in about an hour (probably less, I tend to take my time with new things). FWIW.

Personally, I like both the 2 seater and 2+2 when it comes to the s30's. The one 2+2 that I really don't care for is the s130 2+2. The lines on the the 2 seater seem right, they are proportionate, crisp and sharp. It seems to me that when the designers decided to add the rear seat, they just stretched the roof and floorpan. The rear quarter windows seem an odd shape, and the car just looks a bit off. Of course that's just my opinion.

Found the 5 pack at Kmart, ended up buying 2 of them. The set is pretty nice, though I wish there were a 280zx in place of one of the 240sx models, and to me the 240z looks a little too big. Still, pretty nice detail on all of them. While I do enjoy the hunt, it would be great if JadaToys offered online purchasing from their website...

There is also www.zhome.com which is another great resource to look to when looking into buying a z car. FWIW

Finally found the "for sale" 510, the red 240, and a nice r32 gt-r, all JadaToys products. I must say that the detail is quite nice, even on the smaller scale models. If only they would release an s130 model...

I found this underneath the passenger seat of a parts car. It reads: Robin, Thank you for your explanation. I know how you feel. I love Lenny with all my heart. But sometimes I still think of you, sexually. I'm still attracted to you and I fell guilty for it, but not very guilty. So all we can do is love our mates and be faithful. But no one said we couldn't fantacize (spelled wrong). So when I'm alone and feeling horny, I'll think of you. And maybe you and Lenny and me in a threesome. Just kidding! So, stay faithful. Burn this then eat it. Pamela Obviously, Robin didn't burn this. She just left it under the seat for who knows how many years... See Will, I finally got around to posting this.

Italian peeler+orange Z= Orange Peel?

Both a garage and a nice friendly companion for said garage would be great, but my lovely will have to settle with a new set of brake pads, maybe a new differential mount, and a good vacuuming!

The ECU is in the passenger compartment, driver side, just in front of the leading edge of the door. However, if you are thinking that it is the cause of your recent issues of car not wanting to run, I would start looking elsewhere first. The ECU in our era of vehicle was really nothing more that a routing system for electrical impulses. It is not like the current generation of ECUs that rely on chips to do the thinking. If you want a simple simily, think of it like this: Our ECUs are like a hand held calculator, while the current generation ECUs are laptop computers.

I've got family outside Mexico City and I've never had any problem sending letters and the occasional package of small gifts (cd's, dvd's, packs of photos) through the USPS. I know that DHL and UPS operate throughout the country, and those certainly would offer tracking numbers, so if you are concerned about delivery, perhaps you should check into using one of them.

So, since my zx is a 79...would that mean that it once had disco going in all its quadraphonic splendor? I would much rather think of Rush being pumped through the ol' system, perhaps Spirit of Radio, Yyz, or Red Barchetta...

Finally came across another 240 at my localish walmart. Have yet to come across a "for sale" z car though :mad:

Sourcing all the appropriate pieces might be a bit tough. You would need to get the "computer," wiring harness (and modify it to work), all the relays, new fuel pump, throttle linkages... or I suppose you could look into aftermarket efi systems, but I don't know what that would entail.

There are a few very comprehensive lists within this thread...get a pen and paper! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22909 Are you flying out there or driving? Remember that if you fly, you won't be able to take certain items.

Pulled up behind another red 280 zx the other day at walmart. The car was sitting right in front of the entrance, and both our cars got quite a few comments (mostly like "you don't see those everyday," and "I bet you feel like your seeing your car in a mirror"). The coolest thing about the other ZX was the build date of 9/78... The owners daughter came out of the store and said "Cool!" and her mother commented that she saw me drive in (as I saw her as I drove in). It's nice to know that there is another local driver around. Alas, no camera so no photos. Perhaps next time.

Welcome to the site! If you haven't checked your local junkyards, that would be a good place to start. If you have, you could check with your local Nissan dealer (you never know), or you could contact Blackdragonauto. I've attached a page from their online catalog for you with their contact info & such. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/

That is looking sharp, Dave! Glad to see that you are picking up the pieces and getting the Z back in top shape!

Welcome, Alex. I'm just going to rattle off a couple quick ideas for you to check. Our ZXs differ in some ways, especially when it comes to the "brain," but we share enough components that some of these might help: Check all of your vacuum hoses, they tend to dry rot and become brittle. You won't really be able to tell just by looking at them, but if you pull them off the bad ones should be pretty obvious. Check the rubber boot between the Air Flow Meter and the throttle body, as well as the hose that goes to the auxiliary air regulator. You might also want to check the PCV bit located on the driver's side of the block, about in the middle. The rubber hose that is attached to it may be leaking in air, and is a pain to remove if bad. Be careful with this piece, you really don't want to have to replace it. There is also a thumb screw on top of your throttle body that you could adjust, but since the car idles down after a bit, I doubt that this is the problem. You might also want to check all the electrical connectors on your thermostat housing. If the thermotine switch isn't sending accurate info to the brain, your car may try to compensate for what it feels is a cold start situation. Even if this is not the culprit, it's still a good idea to clean these pieces of corrosion. I'm sure I've missed some things, but these points should help narrow down the problem. Let us know your results.

The R/C 510 looks great, can't wait to for it to be released! http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=abc510model46&Category_Code=models Though I would also like to see the Skyline and Sunny from abc: http://www.abchobby.com/

Owns a 240 with a wide body kit...perhaps over at Hybridz or zcar?

It seems to me that you've got a couple different issues going on at the same time. Firstly, the bucking and kicking: This one seems a fuel delivery issue. Have you taken Beandip's advice from post #7? From the tank- there is crud in your tank. Admit it, we all have crud in our tanks, at least to some extent. As the pump pulls gas out of the tank, it pulls the crud/sediment/rust along with it. Eventually, so much stuff gets pulled into the screen (either in tank or in pump) that the fuel is no longer getting through. So, how are those screens, and how clean is your tank? If you have checked all this out and everything is good, then we proceed to the filter- filters are fairly inexpensive. They do a great job at catching the small stuff, but in doing so, they get clogged themselves. If your tank is a mess, your filter is a mess, and the lines going to the filter have a bit of mess in them as well. You are running carbs on your engine, and I know very little about carbs. Run a search on tuning carbs or wait for someone knowledgeable to chime in. The not starting and clicking sound- Bad battery, bad starter, or bad alternator. All of these can be checked at an auto parts store. Regarding the alternator: I disagree with Austen (76Datsun280z) on the alternator. A vehicle needs the battery to start, but needs the alternator to continue running. If your alternator is shot, you car will just draw the juice it needs to fire the plugs/lights/radio from the battery... until it drains the battery completely. If the clicking you are hearing is coming from the engine bay-and it clicks a lot in rapid order, it is most likely the starter solenoid actively trying to engage the starter...and failing miserably. Of course, I could be completely wrong on all counts, wouldn't be the first time. But these are some places that you should really look at. These items wear out after all. FWIW, give or take a little. EDIT/addendum: Re the radiator. This just happened to me the other day. Clogged radiator. How does the inside look from the filler neck?