zbane

Just the other day I was driving along and saw another red 280zx driving my way! It was a lovely day so the window was down, I waved and he waved back. I've had the zx for a couple years now, and this is just the 3rd one I've seen in town...and the first to acknowledge mine.

Another option for rust slowing would be to get some brush on (or rattle can) rust converter. I've used it in the past and it does certainly help. Just clean what you can, wait for a semi low humidity day, mask it off and go at it. While you are looking around, you might want to pull the cowl off and take a peek what's down there...

Additionally, you might as well go ahead and replace your radiator cap (assuming it's old) and thermostat.

Absolutely correct (of course) Stephen. I was just looking for some clarification on the poster's part as to help find the problem. From the FSM: Shutter is open during engine warm up, thereby increasing quantity of intake air causing engine speed to increase. Engine speed is decreased when passage is narrowed...After warm up, the shutter closes. Richard, how were the openings meant for the air regulator dealt with? If they have simply been plugged, try unplugging the manifold side and then try to start the engine up.

For these repairs, I would suggest that you use jack stands or ramps. Between the rear edge of the doors and in front of the rear tires you should finds some indentations in the sheetmetal's bottom edge. These indentations notch right into your stock scissor jack, and if you have the stock jack, it should show you where to put it. I have seen people use a hydraulic floor jack on the rear differential, but I've never been to keen on this method. Here's a poor quality photo that should at least help point you in the right direction.

By "air regulator," what do you mean? Have you any photographs of the engine that we could look at? The two items in the bay that I would associate with air regulation would be those circled in these photos. Regardless, you do need to have both of them. Do note that I do not have a turbo engine, so your bay will be more cluttered than mine. The base location for both items will be about the same though.

Matt, of those two, I would choose the Accord. Before you buy it though, check into the timing belt (as previously mentioned) as well as the CV joints. If you hear a clicking sound when turning, one of them is going out, and if one is going, the other is not far behind and will start clicking soon after you replace the first one (personal experience). Check the trunk out-sometimes a seal goes bad somewhere and water will mysteriously appear. Again, experience. Ditto on the comments about snow tires. I had installed "all season" radials which should be called "three seasons; all if no snow or ice." FWD can be a great thing, but if there is ice to contend with, there just isn't enough weight in front to push down enough to matter. 2nd gear starts help to alleviate this, but even then it is a pain in the rear. Also, the rear drums lock easily when on the slippery stuff-I slid through many stoplights in Santa Fe, even when I was only driving about 10 mph. During good weather, the Accord can be a very spirited driver as is, and generally returns good to great gas mileage. I drove mine from NC to Chicago and got @ 40 mpg with cruise control at posted limits (or close, anyway).

Have you checked that all of your relays are connected and active? Do you hear any sounds when you turn the key to the on position? When I replaced my pump, it took about 10 attempts to get the fuel flowing.

Definitely a resemblance with the gnose, at least from that angle. I tried to save some of the photos from the ebay page, but wasn't allowed to due to copyright stuff... However, here is a link to the Intermeccanica page: http://www.intermeccanica.org/vehicles/griffith/griffith.htm It is a beautiful car, though the roof seems a little odd to me.

Mechanical Fuel Pump? Carbie issues?

Welcome to the club! You are in luck, there is a very active group of Z owners in South Florida. Check out www.sfzcc.com for upcoming events and such.

my bad, I edited after you posted this. The part you are looking for (unless I am mistaken) is an elbow that goes from your therm housing to your vacuum actuator. At least that is what it does on my zx. Getting that little two inch bit of hosing on there is a real pain.

It is a connector that goes to your thermal vacuum coupling.

Thought this might be of interest. As is, the car is at $750 (no bids). Located in Albuquerque, NM. Nasty front end damage, but doesn't look insurmountable. Interior is fairly well shot, dash doesn't look bad. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/70-Datsun-240Z-Project-Car_W0QQitemZ190174886633QQihZ009QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Thought someone out there might like this one for parts.

I think you will find many people have had great success with POR-15 products. Run a search on the stuff and you will find all sorts of info, including some great write ups on how to use it. The process for use is detailed, but everyone who has used it seems to be very pleased. http://www.por15.com/

The good fortune is that you have a Z, and it is lovely. The difficulties put in your path (and your Z's) will only lead to more appreciation and enjoyment of your car once it is done. Some would say that good things come to those who wait, and as much a cliché as that is, there is some validity in it. Perhaps this would be a good time to look into learning how to do it yourself, as others on the board have.

Ditto on that, but if these were on my car I would rather have the rings light up as daytime running lights. Most likely would have to remove the blue element, but I think using them in such a way would be a smart use for a superfluous lighting element. JMO.

Rust spots? More like rust holes...still, for $36 not a bad deal.

Ditto on that- I used to work at a dealership in Santa Fe and the dent repair guy was great. He could repair little dents very quickly, and was able to do so without having to remove any panels (most of the time). No idea how much you would be charged for the repair, but there is absolutely nothing to be lost by asking about it.

Beggars can't be choosers. Here I thought I had the only (running) S130 in Jackson county, but I came across this little gem on campus! The vin is a little lower than mine, so I think it is from March 79. Left a note on the windshield inviting the owner to visit the site, who knows if he/she will... Though about a month ago I chased down a truck towing a somewhat sad white '71.

In addition to this, I would recommend using a product called "Damp Rid" or something similar. This product is nothing more than small round pellets that sit in a special container (provided) and absorbs moisture out of the air. You would want to check it every month or so to see if it needs draining/refreshing. Here in the moldy south, I have found it to be very helpful in preventing (or at least slowing) mold in my closets (and on my Dr. Martins).

Well, while the true OEM type pump would indeed be preferred, they are a bit pricey. I ended up getting a Wallbro type replacement from my local parts store. It was an easy install, especially since it was replacing a similar aftermarket cheapo of unknown age. My unit cost about $110 (tax included) and I had it the day after ordering. If you just want one to run for a while, one of these should do the trick. Of course, as you have mentioned, this may not even be the problem with the car. Just because it is not getting gas does not mean the the pump is bad. It could be a relay, a poor connection, a clogged filter (either in the tank or on the pump)... Get some more information about the vehicle, and search for "rust" first on this site, and on that car. Even though you are considering trading something with the owner, you should remember this little phrase: Just because it is free does not mean it is cheap. Attached is an old photo of the worn unit. It took about twenty minutes to replace, but I work slowly (especially when gasoline is involved).

These are nothing more than thoughts: The pulsing issue, where the car wants to die on you might be a. signs of a dying battery b. signs of a malfunctioning alternator or loose belt c. poorly functioning fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel damper, or clogged fuel filter The voltmeter issue shouldn't be related to your leaking antifreeze, but could well be related to a and b above. Find that leak, it could be an easy fix like tightening a connection or replacing a heater hose. Then again, it could be that your water pump is giving up the ghost. Since the pump is connected to the alternator, this could in turn be the cause of the wacky voltmeter, but these are just guesses

The community I live in is full of extremely rich (I mean stincking filthy rich-average home price $1.5 million) people who drive extremely nice cars. While I may glance at thier Porsche, Bentley, Jaguar, Masarati, or Rolls Royce, they are the ones staring at my car as I go around a corner or through the intersection. One guy pulled up next to me in his brand new Escalade at the grocery store just so he could say "That's a nice car." While the majority of "normal people" don't notice it (or care about it), it is nice to know that I have a car that even the richest of the rich envy or reminist about. BTW, I am not one of the wealthy people. I happened to find one of the few affordable apartments around.

Jason, you are so bad...:laugh: Darbji, have you decided about getting the smoked lenses or the clear ones?