zbane

No issues whatsoever, though the velcro is mainly attached at the upper edge of the carpet, and goes across the tunnel to attach to the other side. Works well, and should it ever need to be replace, shouldn't be a difficult task to tend to. I do like the idea of the spray adhesive, but would be afraid of cooking it-thus making it a more permanent thing.

Getting into the door isn't that difficult. All that's needed is a phillps head screwdriver, and a thin flat/wide blade (or strong fingers) to pry/poop the door panel off. Remove the door pull and the armrest. Grab hold of the power window switch enclosure by the sides, and pry back and forth on the horizontal plane. It's held on by sprung metal, and will take a bit of work to get loose. Start at the lower edge, door jamb end of the door-insert your pry tool (putty scraper works well), and pop the panel free of the door. Work your way along the bottom edge, and up the front. Once it's free of those tabs (expect a few to break-it happens) you can pull the panel out from the door a bit and move it upwards off the upper edge.

I don't know if this was original to my 79 or an add-on improvisation by the PO, but I found a few strips of heavy duty velcro going up and over the trans tunnel, connecting the driver and passenger side.

I agree with Zed on the starter-it's the lock cylinder that's mucked up-should be easy enough to replace. As to the window not operating, the scissor mechanism may have seized up, tracks fouled, or the motor has become disconnected from one of the switches/power supply. A slight hassle to deal with, but nothing major. (text from cl posting, number x'ed out by me)

I guess I'm just on the unfashionable side of the curve... I've had 2 in the line, but not the years/models listed. 1975 Fiat 124, and 1979 280zx...

Here are the pics for when the posting is gone. (my question besides "Why?" is "what the heck is that thing in the first photo, and why is it even there?")

There are several things you should look into, starting with the simplest: Is there gas in the tank? (seriously. I helped troubleshoot a friends Honda, only to find the tank was dry-and the low fuel light/sender was bad). If there is gas, how old is it? Have you looked inside the tank to check for crud? (If not, you should...) When you replaced the fuel pump, did you reverse the leads? (I ask because I've done this-it's easier to do than you think...yes, the pump will activate, but spin the wrong direction)...

Have you contacted FIMZ? He might be able to get you in touch with the folks that bought the car so that you could make a deal with them... just a thought.

What interior parts are you looking for? I have a few odds and ends sitting about. If you were to list (or preferably post photos of) what you're looking for, you'll most likely get better results.

Car looks complete, could be resuscitated... or used for parts... Here's the link: http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/2905659325.html Body of text (minus phone): (standard disclaimer: No relation to seller, etc.)

Rockauto has one for $65...

Oh, I wasn't planning on selling them, just showing it can be done easily and cheaply for oneself. However, if you'd like I'll sell you the one in the pics (minus the drive) for $99.99...but I can't do this all day long, so if you call within the next 10 minutes, I'll throw in a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. All you'll have to pay is additional processing... *some conditions apply (I might take a bite of the sandwich to ensure quality control)

@ SBlake, thanks! The thought of being able to swap out the car for others was the whole idea. I like that the drive will be out of the way, hidden (less clutter) and provide a nice place to display ones diecast, without hacking into it. Only took a little while to make with nothing more than a few hand tools, and required a couple dollars worth of materials.

Here's my take on a Z based external hard drive enclosure... Just a few pieces of wood, some glue and nails, stain, lacquer, and (although it's hard to see in the photos) rubberized undercoating. Why use the undercoating? I didn't want the base to rust, of course! Actually, I thought it'd be a nice touch to have what appeared (in color and texture) to be blacktop that the car was setting on. I was going to go for a concrete appearance by topcoating with a grey primer, then add a few drops of oil underneath, but thought that might be going to far... As I didn't have the micro usb cable with me at home, the hole I drilled for it is too small, but that's easily remedied. (and the additional holes were drilled not for looks, but to assuage any fears of overheating of the drive)

It's a starting point for ideas... perhaps a hollow base to enclose the drive, with the car on top. That way you'd be concealing the drive while displaying the Z on the desk or shelf. Hide the clutter with something cool.

That's the reason I enjoy watching British Touring Car races... The cars seem to have been bought from a dealership, modified, then raced...just like in the old days of racing in the US. Here's a link to some of Nissan's entries; you can actually tell what the car was before being converted to racecar form, not what it's supposed to resemble. http://www.flickriver.com/groups/nissantouringcars/pool/interesting/

You're certainly not going to hurt anything by cleaning the contacts and connectors, so you might as well try it. Also check the fuses, but don't just peek in there and look at them...pull them out, clean those contacts, and verify (or just change) the fuses.

While it may well be an issue with wiring, have you checked the simple things first? You state you put in new bulbs...but did you put in the correct bulbs? I've seen similar oddities occur when the wrong amp bulb has been installed... If that's not the case, you most likely have grounding issues somewhere.

Stephan, I don't know why the original poster would need to do this either (unless there are track days in the car's future), but I wanted to at least try to answer the question with something not related to using a cell phone...

Back on track with the subject at hand... The speedometer is certainly reading the correct speed, but a circuit in the cluster isn't allowing the display to show it. It's been set up to display anything over 85 to be 85... 85 mph=85 mph 85+x=85 85+(x+1,2,3,...)=85 Find yourself an true electronics repair shop-one where they do the work on site, not shipped out for replacement. Download the schematics for the cluster, and take everything to the shop. They should be able to isolate the redundancy circuit and disable/remove it.

I had similar problems with mine, though it was the trip that wasn't resetting easily. I pulled cluster out of the dash (easier with an s130), opened it up, and found that all it needed was a good cleaning and application of lubricant. Graphite powder worked well-though it can be messy.

As these are a bit of a novelty/rarity I thought I'd post the link. (no relation to seller, yada yada) http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/2851081227.html (here's the text of the page-minus phone numbers-for when the ad is gone) Datsun 240z cowl hood - $100 (Bellevue) I have a cowl hood off a Datsun 240z for sale. Could use a good cleaning and some paint but a good hood. For questions call or text Joel (615)423-xxxx or Ronnie (615)636-xxxx Thanks for looking.

I've not been in several years, but the time I went there was a very nice assortment of Z cars from all the years. There are several places to stay, from campgrounds to hotels, but not many. Lot security isn't an issue as the main gathering point pretty much sells out for the weekend to all the Z people, and there are always people around.

To handle the squat and roll, I got myself a set of Tokico Blue struts... In my opinion, they provide a good balance of improved handling dynamics and ride comfort. As to the roll (if the struts don't fix it) you can upgrade the sway bar...but start with the struts, otherwise you'll not notice any real difference...

the compression levels look to me like a classic example of head gasket failure... I know from experience; your description of how the car ran before failure also sounds familiar.