zbane

The model goes together very quickly since it only has six screws. Overall quality seems good, but as you can see in the photos the paint lines don't exactly meet up, especially around the headlamp covers. Additionally, the covers are a little loose but nothing to worry about. Not a bad deal at $11 and change.

Well, whoever gets that little gem will be a winner in my book-The Special Olympics is a great group, one of the best out there, and I'm happy to see that they will be getting some much needed assistance.

Well, if it is Z cars you want to see, you will want to plan a trip up to Daytona for the big Z convention. http://flza.com/convention_info.htm

It would be a good idea to cover the openings. You don't want any bugs or anything getting in there. I would probably use some electrical tape or gaffer tape. Since the car will be without injectors, and therefore not drivable, you should probably do ALL of your fuel line stuff at one time. Replace all of your rubber fuel lines with tubing rated for FI engines. Double check what the parts store tries to sell you-sometimes they get it wrong and will cut the other stuff. Drop and clean the gas tank-they get nasty over time. Pull off the fuel pump and clean the filter on the pump inlet side (if you have the original pump). Be sure to use NEW FUEL LINE CLAMPS! Don't be cheap and use normal old clamps-when you tighten the cheapos they cut into the line.

Congratulations! Now the fun begins...

One more thing (for now, anyway)- There are little rubber O-rings on the ends of the injectors. Make sure they all come out to prevent future frustration! Also, while you have the fuel pressure released, you might as well go ahead and change your fuel filter (two birds, one stone)

Darbji, there are a few of us in the general area (Brian and I are both about 1 hour away), and there are several others a bit farther away than that (but still within driving distance). A little convoy could be fun!

Was that the one I saw on Craigslist? Those are some great shots-I'm sure you and Amber will have some great times with that one! Congratulations!

First of all, this photo of the FSM is for a 79 280zx, but the system and manner of relieving fuel pressure is the same (so far as I know, anyway). The photo may be a little to fuzzy, so here is the jist of it. And yes, I know I should just get a scanner :stupid: 1. disconnect ground cable from battery. 2. disconnect cold start valve harness. 3. using 2 jumper cables, attach each terminal to cold start valve connector 4. attach other end of cables to positive and negative battery terminals for a few seconds 5. disconnect jumper cables from cold start valve and begin disassembly Just a heads up-there will still be fuel in the system when you disassemble. Have some rags around and set them down on the intake manifold. This will soak up the spilled fuel and will also catch any connectors that you may inadvertently drop. Before you start disassembly, hit all the bolts that hold on the rail with PB Blaster (or other penetrating lubricant) to help ease the process. Take your time-the job is not too hard, but care should be taken so that you don't break anything or bend the rail.

While that does indeed blow something terrible, at least the damage was minimal. If I were you, I would look into a head unit that is HD capable. You will be able to get much better sound from it, assuming you have any radio stations broadcasting in your area. I might also suggest getting a block off plate for your stereo slot and finding another place to mount the stereo (glove box comes to mind). If you are going to use your mp3 player most of the time, changing stations would not be an issue. Of course, if you were to get a head unit that has a remote control, you might be able to leave the glove box open and use it that way. Just an idea.

I went by Wallyworld again hoping to find either the "for sale" model or the new hot wheels car (which I did find, but only a variety 10 pack) but ended up finding this gem. It's odd, though. The model has a turbo four cylinder, and the speedometer is maxed out.

I love that car cover! Check wallyworld yesterday; no luck on the 240. I'll just have to keep checking, I suppose.

Don't forget to search through our own Scarab section: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=100 And definitely get photos of all the usual trouble spots. The phrase "I"ve used rust stop and it is in really good shape" worries me. To what extent is the rust damage? Was it just "stopped LOL" or was it then repaired (new panels, etc.) Still, it does sound interesting.

Here's a link to the zdayz website. It has not been updated yet for next year, but it still has loads of information that will be beneficial to you. http://www.zdayz.com/ TBK1 is absolutely correct about the motorcycles-they will swarm around you like mosquitoes hunting for blood. Very annoying and inconsiderate! As to driving the dragon itself, I hope you like shifting..........constantly. Also, if you are to have a passenger with you, make sure that they take some sort of motion sickness medicine, even if they say "I don't get carsick." They will on this ride.

Looks like the car has many good parts to pull (like the rear window louvre). Odd though, that the car would still have the battery in it after all this time...

Assuming you have the original stock fuel pump, there may be another possibility. There is a small metal mesh cone filter at the intake side of the pump. I wouldn't be surprised if that has built up a layer of tank sediment in it. If that were the case, your pump is not putting out the required amount of fuel with the required amount of pressure. When you block the return line, you increase the pressure but not the amount of gas being pumped and that might be another reason why the car is running rough. Just an idea.

I just thought it was amazing how one minute you had moose(s) (meese?), the next a Z.............................must be magic... Just be thankful that you are seeing them in your yard, not running along the road next to you as you drive (I speak from experience here). Nature in your yard is nice, nature in your face is not.

Pressure at the rail should be 36.3 (I think-search the site to be sure). As far as cleaning the injectors yourself, I have no idea. I would send them off to the Dr. Injector guy, he seems to have a good reputation, and a couple members have used his services. Otherwise, there are injector services to be found online, but I wouldn't know of quality of service/value, etc. http://www.docinjector.com/ on ebay http://myworld.ebay.com/dr.injector/

Curtis and Mark, welcome to you both! As I'm sure you have discovered, there is so much information here that you will wonder how you managed before! Please do post photos, and don't forget the "search" feature for those late nights in the garage when you just can't figure that one little thing out (that becomes two little things that becomes three little things that...)

Sure, it's possible, and yes, it would matter. Are you using the original fuel pump (or OEM replacement), or an aftermarket unit (like Wallbro, Beck/Arnley, Masters, etc.)? However, I don't think that is the case. If you had reversed the wires, you wouldn't be getting any pressure in your lines. These pumps are great at pushing fuel, not so good on the suction part. Another thought... Fuel Injectors. You state that it will run, albeit poorly, when extra pressure is applied to the system. I am thinking that perhaps your injectors are all crudded up inside, and the only way you can get fuel through them is to force it through. The car had been sitting for a couple years, so methinks you may have some varnish/rust particle/assorted ick clogging those little buggers. Run a search for Dr. Injector, both on this site and your favorite search engine.

Maybe this should be over in the funnybone section, but it seems rather apropos that it be here, now. This was just sent to me via text message, and I am using my cell phone internet connection to post it here as I drive the interstate 240 bypass around Asheville at 72 mph (not sure, no speedo)... Just kidding. This morning on the Interstate, I looked over to my left and there was a woman in a brand new Cadillac doing 65 mph with her face up next to her rear view mirror putting on her eyeliner. I looked away for a couple seconds and when I looked back she was halfway over in my lane, still working on that makeup. As a man, I don't scare easily. But she scared me so much; I dropped my electric shaver, which knocked the donut out of my other hand. In all the confusion of trying to straighten out the car, using my knees against the steering wheel, it knocked my cell phone away from my ear which fell into the coffee between my legs, splashed, and burned Big Jim and the Twins, ruined the darn phone, soaked my trousers, and disconnected an important call........... Darn women drivers!!

In addition to Stephen's suggestion, check your FPR. I know you have a new one, but if it is not working correctly it would allow fuel into the return line before the proper pressure was reached. Additionally, pull off the vacuum line from the FPR to make sure that it has not been breached and flooded with gas. Check to make sure that all of your fittings/clamps are indeed tight. You may be losing fuel from a bad line/connection. VERIFY that you have ONLY fuel lines that are rated for FUEL INJECTION ! I very recently had to correct the counterperson at a local parts store when I was presented with non FI lines for purchase. If you are using the wrong line type, it will bulge (creating a loss of deliverable pressure) and eventually rupture. You may be countering this by building more pressure in the line when you clamp down on the return system...If this is the case, you are heading to a very dangerous situation-burst line while running/driving...

Well, I am no electrical genius, but my first guess would be that perhaps you have the wrong amp fuse in there. The second guess would be that your combination switch (on the stalk) is discombobulated. A third guess would be that there are some crossed wires or bad connections somewhere in the line, but this last one would be a longshot, unless the previous owner really messed things up. I am sure that someone with more knowledge will chime in later, but you may wish to search "combination switch" and see what pops up. If it is the combo switch, a member here (Dave aka Zs-ondabrain) will be a great resource to you; he rebuilds the little buggers very well. edit: you may wish to state which vehicle is giving you problems.

In addition to what Stephen said, make sure that the car is up to normal operating temperatures and has been for a while before running the test. I seem to recall that some vehicles will fail if the test if the cat hasn't gotten to its optimal temperature. When I lived in Cali (years ago) I recall the smog tech asking me if I had done this, so there must be something to it.