zbane

a quick search online found a place called windshieldstogo with replacements at $125. Before going the online route, I'd call around to the shops from Waynesville to Asheville... as well as checking the junkyards in the Asheville area.

sure, you could go that route...if you have about 5,000 bucks to spare... or you could source an L28et motor from a turbo ZX...

Removing the trim from the upper and lower edges of the windshield is fairly easy; the vertical portions are less so. To pop the upper SS trim, grab the trim near the center of the car, and pry it up-gently, but with some force. It's held on mainly by a few plastic clips, though there is certainly going to be a nice accumulation of crud in there acting as glue...and you may find some silicon (or other adhesive) as well. You will hear and feel it come loose, then it's just a matter of going from one side to the other. Once it's separated from the upper line of the car, you can wiggle it out from the vertical wings. Same procedure for the bottom trim, just watch out for the wipers. To remove the vertical trim, you'll need to open the doors, carefully remove the weatherstripping, and remove the screws on the A pillar. Once the screws are out, you'll be able to remove the vertical pieces. I pulled this link (lot's of pictures) from a similar thread. http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/280zx_windshield_area_rust_repair_part1_lots_pics_898903.msg2713861.html#msg2713861

The easiest thing to do would be to find a complete turbo engine, with all the control modules, and swap it in. Once it's in there, you could then start looking for turbo upgrades. If you were to source a turbo separately, you'd have to fabricate the pipes, modify the intake manifold, and source/install a new engine management system. Much easier and cost efficient to get one that's already done.

Did the exhaust system you bought from Advance come in on piece? That would be one heck of a shipping box... If it did, you should be able to snake it in with the car jacked, and the rear left wheel off, though I can only imagine it'd be a pain in the neck to do so. If it proves impossible, I would cut the new system in the area of the flange on the FSM picture, then have a muffler shop weld on connectors to the new ends.

The antenna unit is pretty easy to remove and disassemble. Odds are you need to re-grease the drive mechanism. If I recall correctly, you only have to remove three screws on the antenna assembly, once you've removed it, of course.

IMO, there is no reason to discount the 260. I think that due to it's limited production run, there's a level of uniqueness to an already unique line of car. If you search around, you'll find that many/most of the engine parts are available/compatible with the 240...

Take a piece of felt and a good magnet when you look at the cars. Check the frame rails, underside of the floopans (even if the undercoating looks good, there can still be rust). Run the magnet over the felt at the doglegs and underside of the hatch (both the lid and its mating area). While you have the hatch open, pull the spare tire out, and check for rust in there...

The noise suppressor is (or should be) mounted with the ignition coil, on the mounting bracket itself. It may well be disconnected, missing, or simply worn out...

Hopefully you won't find what I found under the rubber outer... I was able to find a rear bumper from an 82 model (same extended rubber edges as on your year) but due to the extended section, wasn't able to mount it as a whole. Additionally, the indent that runs the length of the bumper was in a different location as my original, so I wasn't able to swap it in, hence my need to install it as it is... But at least now you'll know what it looks like, should you reinstall without the rubber cover.

Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual? If not, PM me your email and I'll forward you a PDF copy. You'll be able to find all the routing for the vacuum lines, as well as electrical connections...

You could always get the full cap, and cut a hole for the sensor...after measuring and marking it's location a few times of course.

Roman, the pics you posted are for the s30 cars, not the later s130 (280zx) cars, though I'm sure you know this already. No, you don't have to remove the dash, just clean yours really well before installing. If possible, try to do the install on a warm/hot day, as the ambient heat will help you bend/mold the cover. Also, before installing with adhesive, be sure to do a couple test fittings. My zx came with one installed, and it was done well enough that I didn't even notice for a couple months, until it warped above the instrument cluster.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/2734814526.html Yes, it's in the Nashville, TN area, but for the money, you might do well to consider it... (though I wouldn't doubt if the car has 167,000 miles on it)

There *should* be a thin plastic piece with little hooks/barbs on it running the length of the glass, in the gap between the glass and the body. Yours may be there, but those little parts that clip wear out and break, or if the upper SS strip is full of stuff (dirt, pine needles, etc.) the clips may not have anything to grab hold of.

After some searching, I finally found a few of the Nissan Skyline 2000gt-r Gotta give kudos to the folks at Mattel for choosing such a cool car, and for the detailing.

Actually, the S130 fuel tanks do not have a drain plug but loosening/removing the fuel filler hose (at the tank, obviously) will do the trick, though this method doesn't completely remove all the gas. Still, it's pretty easy to remove the tank itself, even with some gas in there. I would suggest throwing some money at the car through a few new parts. They may not be needed, but since you don't know the last time these were installed, it wouldn't hurt. New NGK spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator (on fuel rail), air filter, and distributor cap/rotor.

Welcome to the forum. I have a couple thoughts on your particular issue... it sounds to me as though you are having a fuel starvation issue; that it occurs once the engine is warmed up may be a coincidence. A common problem for our Z cars is rust in the gas tank, our s130s have a fine mesh filter on the end of the fuel sending unit. If you've a significant amount of rust/crud in your tank, it will get sucked into the mesh and restrict flow. When you shut the car off, and the pump is no longer pulling fuel from the tank, the rust/crud is released as it's no longer being pulled to the mesh, and it resettles/disperses. If you've never taken a peek into the tank, you might want to do so. The access panel is located in the hatch area, under the foam mat. Two screws to remove, then multiple little bolts on the tank (that like to break if you're not careful). You'll have to remove the fuel lines in order to pull the sending unit out. If you've already done this, and the tank condition isn't an issue, then I'd be inclined to suspect the air flow meter. Fender side of the unit, you'll see a small black plastic cover. Carefully remove it and check the contacts for wear or corrosion. And of course, while you're in the engine bay, doublecheck all your connectors to ensure everything is seated well.

Sounds like nothing more than a parts car to me, so I'd offer $500. I'm sure if you look around, you'll find running examples for a far better price than what you'd have in this one, should you decide to get it, source and install a new engine, and fix everything else...

Sorry Al, didn't see your reply and question... but for all others... I found them in a special display endcap near (but not hanging with) the Hot Wheels section, though I didn't realize they were special to Walmart. I posted about the Holiday Z on the facebook page as well, and a member there (perhaps here as well) posted a photo of a recently released Hakosuka Skyline (I've yet to find it myself, and the photo he posted was blurry, so here's one I nabbed from Japanese Nostalgic Car. Yeah, yeah... not a Z, I know.. but it is a Hot Wheels car, and as we've mentioned the 510 variants, and as this is one cool car... I know you understand.

can you describe the noise, and detail when it occurs? Several years ago I drove from NC to Florida, and a squeal that had been intermittent became a full time ear splitting scream about 100 miles into the trip... After making to my destination, I found a Nissan dealership. Luckily there was a Z guy there, and he (using the aforementioned screwdriver technique) found my issue to be the bearings in an Idler Pulley about to give up the ghost...

By "adhesive strip" are you referring to the little plastic strip with clips on it? If so, all you have to do is insert the ends of the upper and lower SS into the vertical side trim, then wiggle/gently push them in and snug to the body (to ensure fitment) and from the center of the window, encourage the SS to clip on. It'll most likely take a good quick push, rather than an extended nudge, but it should just snap into place. Once one is done, you can proceed with the others.

Did you by any chance take photos of the car? I'm curious about the whale tale...crappy or not.

Welcome to the site, and to the world of the Z car.... Before you start anything with your shell, you need to be very serious with yourself. What are you wanting to do with the car? A full on restoration, a resto-mod (engine swaps, body kits, updated bits, etc.), total modification (non Nissan powertrain, non Z dash/interior, etc.) How much are you willing to spend? Think about these things, then start making a list of what you'll need to get there... Once you've done that, post your thoughts; you'll get more responses and assistance to your queries (even if the response is to send you to hybridz)... and by all means find and use the search function. Even if you decide to go total modification, there is much to learn here about non-modded subjects (body work, electrical gremblins, maintenance of stock internals-fuel line issues, exhaust fumes, etc.) And be sure to post pics.

Looks like a great mag to read while I'm having my supper. Super!! (just messing with you on the typo) How are the articles? Aimed more at classics (i.e. purists), or modifiers?