zbane

Sounds as though you found the base cause of your problem... while the tank is out, you might as well pull the fuel pump (mark the cable and pump posts for Pos and Neg, they are easy to switch....I know from experience). Remove all the rubber lines that run between the pump and filter and replace them. Go ahead and replace the fuel filter (it's most likely rather contaminated) and inspect the fuel lines from the filter to the engine to see if they are cruddy as well... Be sure to get EFI rated fuel line hose... don't assume the parts people will get the right rating for you (again, experience). While all the hoses are off, backflush or use compressed air to clear/clean the hard fuel lines...

Silver sharpies work pretty well, but don't have the same glossy luster of the chrome plate... I recently came across a rustoleum rattle can silver/chrome that looks quite good when dry-I wouldn't be surprised if you could find similar in a store near you. As to it being rattle can, and the issues of masking everything? Spray a good amount onto a piece of cardboard and use a small paintbrush to apply...or look for a chrome paint from a model making supplier (Testor's Paint would be good, if it's available in Finland) (edit) EScanlon found a suitable silver nail polish some time back. The polish dries uniformly without brush marks, and the unit can easily be touched up (if needed) without any prep, other than cleaning. Perhaps a trip to the cosmetic counter is in order?

ok... here are a few thoughts for you to investigate... Have you checked out the inside of the gas tank? At the end of the fuel sending unit is a fine mesh screen. Depending on the interior of the tank, you may have rust/sludge/crud being sucked into the mesh thus reducing gas flow. It may not be enough to cause a bother at in town speeds, but when you up the RPM and draw more gas...you get the idea. The same idea can be applied to the fuel filter in the engine bay, as well as the fine cone filter in the fuel pump... Another problem might be your fuel pressure regulator (located on the fuel rail). If it's failing, the pump won't be able to maintain adequate pressure to feed the car, and might cause stumbling... The injector connectors have no particular order. So long as they are firmly connected, they're good to go. Spark plug wires are obviously a different matter. When you push the "check" light, it should give you the error causing the red... Mine has, since the day I bought it, shown red, the fault being battery related, though it has shown me low radiator fluid, brake fluid levels, lights, etc... when appropriate. The battery one just shows, no matter what I do...so I ignore it. Now, there are other possibilities for your poor at speed performance, such as timing being off, or the distributor being a few degrees off...but let's look at the easier to rule out, more common problems first. How long have you had the car, what was it's condition when you bought it (been sitting for years, or a daily driver), what have you checked and/or replaced, etc... And perhaps most importantly: Do you have the Factory Service Manual for your s130... the actual FSM, not the Haynes or Chilton book (nothing against those, as they have their time and place, but the factory manual has all the diagnostic references..)

Holiday version of the 240z, with holiday pricing to boot (beware the sticker shock of this limited edition Z car, about twice the going rate of the regular versions) and another color for the 510. I think it's great seeing our Dattos making repeat appearances, though it would be nice if the boffins at mattel would add in the other Z cars, and a few of the other better known Datsun/Nissan line...

@ craiglew- No, the two are different sizes.

So far as collectability goes, much would depend on the number-at least for those that care about that. Other than the brown/black two tone paint job, and the commemorative number plate, the car is the same as all others made that year. I would suggest looking at the pricing of other S130 cars of similar overall condition, and add a bit for the collector specific markings.

I would think it easier to simply make a cutaway that would show everything in motion-though not under its own power; think of having the machine operate via electric pulley turning the crank. You wouldn't have to worry about fuel delivery, slinging oil, or cooling and the speed could be lowered to show the intricacies and connectedness of all components from crank to pistons, cam to valves... Setup and breakdown (no pun intended) would be much easier, and you'd not be limited by being indoors (exhaust, fire hazard from gas, etc.) Whatever you decide to do, it'll be interesting to see (so take pictures and video!)

Hope the photos help, as I'm at work and can't dash out and take specific photos, they'll have to do... I suggest you find a copy of the Factory Service Manual; by far surpasses the chilton/haynes books.

I'd never seen one of these, figured I'd share.... The description is erroneous, but this might be a good way to get your kids into a Z car... http://nashville.craigslist.org/rvs/2339722096.html

Agreed with the above opinions. If you've never done it before, or at least helped someone pull the head it can seem like a daunting task. Really, though, it's not that bad-assuming you take your time and have everything on hand before you start. Sure, there may be issues if your head is cracked or warped, but that might not be the case if this is a fairly new occurrence, or you've not driven it dry and hot... Of course another option for you is to pull the engine and replace it with a known to be good unit-surely you can find one somewhere.

How's the car start after you've driven it for a while? Have you any way to check the fuel pressure at the rail? Have you changed out the fuel filter (not a bad idea anyway)? Have you checked the little cone type filter in the fuel pump? Might be clogged. I am a fan of running seafoam through the fuel system every few months; it may not help, but it certainly won't harm anything.

Are there any casting marks on the lip or inner surfaces of the rims?

No headlights issue is most likely a fusible link. You may find that your links are good, in which case, the connections may not be. Corrosion is a sneaky bugger... Regarding the no spark issues... Follow the power. You get juice to the coil, but not past it... what's directly after the coil? Coil Cable. Dizzy cap and rotor. Spark plug cables. Check out the wearable bits, they may have just given up the ghost...

Yes, checking the fuses would be a very bright thing to do. I had this issue several months ago, and assumed the headlight was on it's way out, as a cursory check of the fuses and fusibles showed no issue. I went to the store and bought two new headlights (I'm in the 'if one is going, the other is soon to follow' camp) and swapped them out. Turn on lights, one still dim.... Rechecked the fuses, there's the problem....

I recall the same thing happening (though in a far less dramatic way) whilst I lived in New Mexico. There was quite the story in the papers about "new" VW bugs (not the modern front engine variety) being sold at a dealership in Arizona and the problems people were having in NM (and presumably other states as well) when they tried to title and tag them. Who wouldn't want a (rear engine) 2003 VW Bug? Some people found dubious legality by dropping new everything on top of original frames, using the original serial/vin data with the new parts while others simply claimed the car was from whatever year. By and large, these actions were done by the dealer/importer, not the individual buyer who ultimately lost the car and their money. That it's happening to such a rare (in the US) car is a shame, but the ultimate shame belongs on those who skipped the steps involved to get the car in legally. Should it be so difficult to import specialty cars in the first place? I don't think so, but I don't make the rules...

This happens to me in both my cars, and on both I try to aim the external mirrors back at them. There are times though, due to their driving, that I simply pull over and let them pass. Being tailgated on twisties at night in the rain is no fun; less so when it's a higher riding vehicle (or Sheriff Deputy). The infiniti has a retractable privacy screen that helps with the rear window, but that's all it does.

There should be a sticker with your paint code number by the radiator. If that's not the case, due to a respray or otherwise, I would imagine you can find a spot or two where the car is still the original color. Probably the easiest location to check would be around the spare tire and/or under the "floor" of the hatch area.

I like how t-bars look, but a couple things come to mind: 1. Is it legal in your state to run like that? Florida would be (to my knowledge) no, but NC would be ok... Not sure about California. 2. If you get rear ended... I know the original bumper wouldn't protect much, but it would protect. Also, if you were simply running w/o original equipment it might be easier for the insurance adjusters to deny your total claim by stating "if you had a bumper, the damage would be less. This damage is YOUR fault..."

Why? Regarding the original question: When I bought my ZX, it wasn't with the intention of using it as my daily driver. Alas, life decided otherwise, and she was my dd for several years. Every day, no matter the weather. I am not a mechanic, nor am I wealthy. Luckily for me, my car did very well for all those years with basic maintenance... until the head gasket went. Yes, I've got some rust issues on my car, and I tend to run a bit on the rich side, but for the most part, this car has been a tried and true friend. Keep looking around this site for tips on problem areas (that apply to all the L6 powered Z cars), and look at whatever cars you find with a logical, wallet based eye.

Would you mind posting a pic of the centercap?

It'll need to be cut off and fabricated, as I've yet to see any for sale as a patch panel.

If none of the lights come on in all positions, my guess is that the switch within the stalk is bad/corroded/gummed up. Either that or the contacts from the stalk to the main wiring harness is having a problem. What sort of troubleshooting have you already gone through?

There are several different spoilers available for the s130, though to my knowledge the only spoiler that ever came stock with the car was a whale tail style (the rarely seen ZXR had this for homologation purposes). http://zhome.com/History/ZXR.htm Photos might help (most likely not, but we all like pictures)...

What E is saying is that just because it looks rust free, it may not be. In the photos he provided, you can see "rust free" ... er, well... not so rust free once the paint was removed... Do you happen to know any Z owners in the Atlanta area? Might be worth it to take one with you for a walkaround before money is exchanged.

Have you tried spraying starting fluid into the intake? Wondering if your injectors are clogged, or not receiving signal. Regarding spark, are you sure your plug wires are connected in proper order?