zbane

I worked third shift last night, and kept hitting refresh, closing and re-opening the browsers, saddled with heavy heart. Hope everyone survived the outage with minimal harm.

"From a 79, this unit is in great shape and is being sold as a set! " This guy sells alot of shirts, not much else, according to his store Datsunofthebeach

You're welcome to join us ANYTIME! Until then, quit yer bitchenLOL

Ian, there has got to be another way! You spent so much time and love on your current dear, don't give up on her-She needs you!

What I've noticed about resale value and location is this- if you want it, it's too expensive; if you're trying to sell it, it's too cheap. For you in MI, something rust-free is going to get the best price, while someone in an arid state (like Arizona) will pay more for a car with an immaculate interior. It has been mentioned before that if someone were to transport a car from the west and sell it in the east, then a profit could be made. Likewise, from southwest to north. The problems about shipping costs and sightless purchasing pretty much nix the whole idea, unless you owned your own transport company or had a good network of buyers in whatever area that knew what they were doing. That's all just my opinion, of course.

Thanks for that suggestion Mat (and by inferrence, JMortensen)! I'll give it a shot when I get a chance.

And while you are checking into this issue, why not take tha Alfa to work? I would suggest the Z, but I wouldn't want you to associate the Z with work, the Z is for enjoyment after all. Just a quick question-is your PS supposed to be at 100% all the time, or does it assist more at lower speed, less at higher? I had an 88 Honda CRX with this feature-city driving=full power. Highway driving=no PS assistance. If your Miata has the same feature, and the issue is not solved by the aforementioned ideas, perhaps it is a sensor failure, or some other fault in the electronics that "speak" to the PS system. FWIW (probably not much)

"it's stongest were the lil fuel damper diaphram is linked to the pump..can these actually go bad cuz i thought it was just a simple diaphram that smoothed out the fuel flow.. " Methinks you've answered your own question... Like anything, I imagine that this can and does go bad. I think it equally possible for them to get all gunked up. I agree with everyone who has posted that the culprit lies in the tank, but now that you've got the filter between tank and pump, that should stop the problem from re-occurring, or at least make it more definable. Since the problem hasn't stopped, and you noticed agitation in the damper, I'd go ahead and pull the damper and clean it out. Who know's what you'll find in there. If you were to pull that off for inspection/cleaning, it might be wise to use this opportunity to back wash the fuel line to get out any other accumulated crud. That's just a thought off the top of my head, but I figure if you're there already, you might as well.

My 79 is my daily driver, and currently my daily commute to school is @30 miles one way. Five days a week. So that's about 300 miles a week, all of it on twisty two lane mountian roads:classic: With any luck, I'll be able to move closer to university in January, then I'll be able to give the car a break, and hopefully start some bodywork to correct some rust issues before they get too large.

Here's a calculator that may help http://www.csgnetwork.com/ohmslaw.html

We're talking about the beauracracy, here my freinds. If it doesn't fit into a neat box, it won't happen.

My guess (and that's all it is) is that without OBD compatibility, emission testing would be impossible for those states that have it.

Don't discount the major metropolitan areas near you-Atlanta is about 3 hours away, and there are some listed at ajc.com that might be worth checking out, though the prices seem high... http://cars.ajccars.com/Autos?property=AJC_V1&tp=AJC_V2&classification=autos%2Ctransportation&temp_type=detail&make=DATSUN&min_year=1920&max_year=1981&zip=30303 although here's a white one for 2grand 1971 DATSUN Price: $2,000 Mileage: 140,000 Features: Exterior: White Transmission: Manual Comments: Contact Chris 678-249-5629 That's all for the listing, I guess you'll have to call for more info. good luck on your search.

Kcorb, you've come to the right spot. This site is chock full of useful information, from mundane information, that while important, is oftentimes overlooked; to some of the most complete teardown and rebuild instructions. You will need to familiarize yourself with the "search" function for the site, posting some pictures of your vehicle, along with vin number and production date from the driver door jamb. By providing us with these numbers, we will be able to help whittle down possible problems/solutions. While you've got a 280z, not all 280's are the same. Like all cars, the 280z underwent subtle changes from model year to model year, so providing this info will prove instrumental. As an added bonus, someone here might have a direct sibling to yours. I think it'd be cool to find my zx's direct siblings, so there is that reason to supply that info as well. Anyway, sorry for the longwinded post, and welcome to the Z community!

Nice write-up, Dave. What did you end up doing with your old 510? I had a buddy with a 210, that thing ran forever, until it t-boned a power pole in a snowstorm. Anyways, I hope the swap with the rb goes well, though you don't have to go strait to Japan for that engine. This place is located in Virginia, and always has a nice selection of engines. http://www.japaneseengineimport.com/eng/products/nissan/page1.htm

Daniel, you're absolutely right about the jack stands, it's on the list with a nice floor jack. The passenger side disk had some surface rust on it, I think that's the one you are commenting on, and the color doesn't look right because I was using my cell phone camera, not the best quality.

Well, I have brakes that work correctly, once again. I had intended to rebuild my calipers, but the weather was working against me. After raining all night long, I took advantage of a semi clearing day, minimal drizzle, and just a touch of snow. Luckily, the snow didn't start until I was on the 2nd wheel (passenger), and even then it didn't snow much. Replacing the brake lines wasn't too hard, especially since I had heeded the advice about getting flare wrenches and PB spray lube. I had never bled brakes before, for that matter, I'd never messed with any brake component to any real extent before last week, so I took everything slow, and reread the FSM several times. My drive is gravel, and it's tilted. I was worried about jacking up, so I improvised. I took the hydrolic jack from my Montero and used it in conjunction with the Nissan jack. I have a "dead" computer, and I used a side panel as a solid foundation. I would jack one up, then the other. I blocked both rear wheels with some rather large rocks, and went to work. After installing the new lines, and bleeding them, I hopped in the car, only to find that I had no brakes whatsoever. I called the mechanic shop that I use for major work and they told me that I had to bleed all four brakes. :stupid: Live and learn, I guess. Anyway, I still have a little bleeding left to do, though I'm going to get some help for this round of bleeding. My skateboard assistant did a great job at first, but as the pressure built up, it wasn't able to stay locked on my seat. The brake lines were original equipment, marked 3/79 on the hose, with a copper ring marked 4/79. If anyone wants them for any reason, pm me. I wouldn't reinstall them, since they are no good, but perhaps a collecter of all things Z might want them for reference or some such. The last photo is rather irritating. It's a hole on the drivers floorpan, just another thing to fix when it get to those frame rails...