zbane

did you drain/siphon all the old out? You might want to check the condition of the tank itself, clear out any crud/rust, change the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator. Running a can of seafoam (or other quality fuel cleaning solution) through the system wouldn't hurt either.

Brake lights staying on is a simple little thing.... Mid way up the brake pedal bar is a whole. There was a plastic piece that fit in this hole which made contact with the brake light activation switch. Find yourself a bolt, and put it in there. As to the fusible links, they may be all fine and good, but if the spade connectors from the positive battery lead have been disconnected (or are corroded sufficiently) you will get nothing to start. You might as well go ahead and inspect the gas tank: open the hatch, pull the carpet and pad, unscrew the two screws near the center of the hatch floor, remove the fuel lines that will now be visible, and carefully remove all those little hex screws. (you might want to spray some pb blaster on them first-they like to break).

Considering where you're at, I'd say go for it (if you can get it for about 500) and consider it a parts car. Salvage everything you can, scrap or practice on the rest. But really, it all comes down to you, the price, and your ability to store it.

Another 510... #9 of 10, Nightburnerz.

I know of a wonderful pub/restaurant in Lebanon that I recommend you stop by if you're going to/from the Superspeedway. http://www.bullwhistle.com/ There are probably other good places to go in town, but I can't recommend any from personal experience-the Bull and Whistle is the only place I go when I'm in the area. If you go, do tip nicely especially if Michelle is your server (she's an old friend from NC) OK, OK, I know that was a shameless plug to get a few bucks for a friend, but seriously, it's a nice place with good parking and a great atmosphere.

I'll start by saying that I have never driven an S30, and have sat in only one that is in operational condition. As such, I cannot, nor will I attempt to compare the two for driving dynamics or performance. However, from going from car to car, sitting in the parking lot, I did notice a few little differences. I felt the S130 had a smaller blind spot and a bit more cargo area. The seats, while different, were comfortable in both cars, though I was able to recline a few degrees more in my ZX than in the 240. I didn't feel as confined/claustrophobic in the ZX, though that may have had more to do with the interior colors than actual interior space. Different characteristics for different cars, different requirements for different times, though my perception is that Nissan was targeting the same market segment. Most S130s are 2 seaters after all (FYI: My speedo goes to 120), and as far as the US market was concerned, the Z/ZX was the only sports car being sold by Nissan. Nissan used modern technology and added value to compete with their contemporaries/competitors... (Imagine if MG had done this? That storied marque may have kept its market share from being eroded by Nissan and others... ) Now, aside from the mandated federal changes, the S130 had disc brakes all around, power windows and mirrors, cruise control, and air conditioning as standard equipment. These same items were optional for the 1979 Chevrolet Corvette ( http://auto.howstuffworks.com/1979-corvette1.htm ) and the ZX still had a lower base price... (Bold for emphasis was my doing) Yes, the S130 is larger all around. It's a bit longer, a bit wider. Yes, it's a bit heavier than the 280Z. It had to be, as emission and safety regulations kept getting tighter (but that's been covered before, as it happened within the S30 model line as well). I wonder what the weight difference between the two models would be if you were to take my reinforced doors and heavy steel bumpers and (theoretically) put them on an S30... Personally, I find my S130 to be both comfortable and nimble. I wouldn't balk at driving cross country (assuming all was in proper running order), nor have I ever had any problems with agility... As to being small, the ZX is pretty close to the size of a BMW z3, and they're not big cars... I am curious: Are you basing this opinion on personal driving/ownership experience or is this simply your opinion? Not trying to impune you, just looking for clarification. I ask because I know exactly what my S130 is doing, and how it's reacting to the road. Steering is tight, precise, and smooth. Braking is even and strong throughout the pedal's travel, be it a slow stop or an emergency one. The ride feels planted, solid, and surefooted (and not because of the weight). The only time I drove in a pack of Z cars (Tail of the Dragon) I had no problems keeping up with the S30s on the road. I know my car, I know how it will react. I feel more confident driving the ZX in snow and ice than I do my Infiniti I30 with its ABS and traction control. Granted, that's an apples to oranges comparison. I would be interested to know exactly what the S30 tells it's driver that the S130 is neglecting to mention... Another thing they are apparently very good for is providing retrofit parts to S30 owners. Engines, transmissions, R200 differentials, distributors and mounting plates, internally regulated alternators, etc. If you feel the S130 is so horrible and is only worthy of being physically abused, please apply your disdain of the model to all its parts and leave them for those that need and/or appreciate them. Thanks. (Side note: I wonder if an automatic S30 would behave in the same way. Anyone care to subject their car to this treatment? Solely for comparison's sake, of course!!) For those of you who have never driven an S130, find one and take it for a drive-just try to do so with an open mind. I promise that if I ever have a chance to drive an S30, I will not berate it for what it isn't, I will enjoy it for what it is.

Link opened up for me, so here it is...

Now, now, now.... It's not really that bad. While I don't care for the stripes, and I wonder how useful the rear diffusers are (never mind that they look like a little step ladder), I do see where the builder was coming from. You gotta admire the person's intent-clearly he/she was going for an IMSA car. It would be interesting to know the history behind this build-were the panels hand made, or sourced from a retired/wrecked racer? I do wonder why there are no photos of the engine or undercarriage? . Perhaps they're not as "showy" as the rest of the car, but it'd be nice to see them (as well as seeing if they'd been beefed up). (disclaimer towards the two photos after #33; I've no idea if that is an actual race car. Heck, it could be the beginnings of the car this thread is about... ) And as an added bonus, I've included what I think is the wildest Z out there...

to really be able to help, we kinda need a few more details. How long has your friend had this car? What's the condition of the fuel tank and pump? Had the car sat with old gas for some time... How old is the fuel filter... While it seems logical that the drop in pressure is directly related to varying vacuum, it's more likely the vacuum is related to the fuel pressure... Yes, the fuel pressure regulator is likely part of the issue (might as well swap it out, they're cheap enough), but I'd be leaning to an accumulation of sediment in the tank, clogging the sending unit mesh screen (at best), blocking the pump's intake mesh screen (at medium), or a failing fuel pump (at worst). Additionally, the fuel filter may be a part of all this, especially if some grime has gotten in there...

I'd have to say you sorted it out right there-you're stalling the engine every time... Have you any thoughts as to why the rear drums are stuck?

I've been licensed since 1990. 1978 Buick LeSabre (4 door, hand-me-down to my sister and me, then solely to my sister once I got... ) 1988 Honda CRX HF (40 mpg before it was cool. Didn't last long-got hit by a train.) 1975 Fiat Spider 124 (not that fast-topped out at 98, but it was quick-given away when I needed a larger car to move cross country) 1983 Buick LeSabre (2 door. Knowing the beating we gave the other one, I knew this one would last a long time... and it did...until the transmission gave up. Gave it away when I got...) *got married, the asterisk denotes shared vehicles* * 1988 Jeep Cherokee (Sold cheap to make room for the next asterisk) 1992 Honda Accord (4 door, five speed. Even though I knew Hondas to be safe, I kept this one away from trains.) * 1998 BMW M Roadster (Now totaled. Thanks ex-wife) 2002 Mitsubishi Montero Limited (not the effin Sport. Traded even up for the one after next) 1979 Datsun 280zx (traded the beloved Accord on it... still sad about it, but they wouldn't take the Montero and give me money back... ) 2001 Infiniti i30 (daily driver, much to the chagrin of the Z... )

That's some automotive pornography right there... (drool)

Just open up the driver's door and look at the data plate on the door jamb. If, by some chance, it's not there post the vin/serial number located on the dash or stamped into the firewall (center of the firewall behind the valve cover) The plate on the jamb will tell you the month and year your car was produced...

Actually, that's normal (so far as I know). Since the upper hose is the outlet from the hot engine, it should be quite a bit warmer than the lower-having such a noticeable difference between the two hoses shows that your radiator is doing what it's meant to do-cool the water. If both hoses were roughly the same temp, well that's a different matter...

"Yuns" was pronounced "yuuuns" (one syllable), for those that may be curious...

Very lovely indeed! It also doesn't have the secondary fuel meter, something I really enjoy on my 79. If you'd like to convert your gauge cluster to an MPH unit, I have a couple spares you might be able to poach parts from (though I'm not sure how it would work with your speedo cable, or if the speed would be correct) Then again, keeping it all original (and remembering the kph/mph equivalencies) could be great bit of fun. My dad's first car was a VW beetle, it didn't have the MPH speeds on it-he used to have loads of fun showing people that his bug could go 100!

Did the shop accept wrongdoing? If so, I wouldn't be worried about the price, and just find one that matches the other in finish and overall condition; give the shop the bill... Failing that, have you photos of the damage? It may be repairable...

And since I didn't want to clutter the board with this bit of craigslist inanity, I figured it best just to tag it on here. I am happy to say I have absolutely no affiliation to the seller! http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/1631096997.html Original text as follows (though I did x out the phone numbers) I must admit that I am tempted to dish out $22,000 just so I can brag about having an inline V-6... And Mally, yes-it's in Tennessee...

That's a hard question to answer without some other info (though I wouldn't be able to answer your question regardless of the following) General condition? Photos of castings/serial numbers? Internal condition (does it shift smoothly or does it need rebuilt)? Et cetera

2000 Datsun Nubira being offered for sale at an actual car dealership! http://nashville.craigslist.org/ctd/1623253308.html

Welcome! We'd love to see some photos!!! (someone had to say it) Lawrence Auto (junkyard) had a 280 a couple years back, might still be there... seemed a solid parts car, so if you need anything-I'd go there first (let me know when, maybe I'll be able to come down and help tear into it!)

I've never been a fan of the black rubber antennas-on any car. They just don't look right to my eyes- however, if it works for you (as a temporary or permanent addition) then go for it. In terms of economics, I fully agree that prioritizing your spending is important, and as long as the antenna (whatever kind you choose) works, then it works-and that's enough.

Check http://www.zbarn.com/ over in Maryville...

89% Not bad.