zbane

I peeked under the rubber boots, and it was all clear, at least what I could see. The passenger side boot has a small hole in it, and was the more stubborn of the two to manipulate (push back in), and now it's the one that has started smoking, so who knows about that one... At the price of the kit, I see no reason to try the rebuild first, and should one (or both) be in less than perfect condition, I'll get the new caliper units, I just didn't know if they were worth their salt, so to speak.

Hello everyone. I've got a question regarding brake calipers, and the rebuilding of them. My FRONT brakes have been squeeking for a little bit, so I know it's time for new pads. I pulled the wheels off the other day, and found that the calipers are sticking/stuck. They relax after a while, but harden up after driving, to the point of smoking (the smoking started today). I've searched the threads and gleaned much useful information, namely that it is indeed time to replace the hoses (cracked originals), and to use the appropriate flared wrenches. Also to keep fingers away from calipers when expelling them with pressurized air, if doing a rebuild. My question (finally) is this-are caliper rebuild kits from BlackDragon (or MSA, etc.) worthwhile, do they work, and are they safe in the longrun? A shop I just went to, hoping for emergency service (parts need to be ordered, don't ya know), winced and advised against the kit. Of course they also quoted me ~$300 for the front end brake job (new hoses, calipers, pads, and labor). Anyway, any suggestions about kits and their overall effectiveness would be greatly appreciated, as well as a basic rundown of how to flush the brake lines, if possible. Thanks all, I really do appreciate it!

I remember seeing that somewhere as well, but to me that's just making it too difficult. If LensCrafters can do it for (plastic) eyeglasses, why not apply the process to other plastic peices? Obviously, this wouldn't work for windshield (or other glass) applications, but the aftermarket could have a feild day with it-black out kits for tailights, headlights, etc.

I agree that having tinted covers isn't the best idea, though they look great, IMO. Same goes for tinted windshields (which I've seen done, and it scared me). What I would love to see developed would be self tinting covers, the technology exists in the form of self tinting eyeglasses, so why not use it in automotive ways? As long as the headlights don't emit UV rays, the covers would become clear at night, when you need full lighting; dark during the day, when lighting isn't always needed. Best of both worlds, I would think.

A few thoughts on the fuel issue- 1. how old was the gas? 2. How were the spark plugs/wires? All connected and fresh, or a little tired? 3. The gas tanks on our cars have a propensity to rust. If enough rust accumulates in there, the fuel sending unit can get all crudded up, thus blocking fuel delivery. There are other possible causes, of course, but these seem to me to be the easiest (and more likely) causes to check, although I expect others to chime in with other suggestions, all with equal merit and worth your consideration.

Welcome, Spike! You may not be able to drive your Z for a while, but you can certainly learn all about it, and maybe do some repairs/upgrades before she becomes your daily driver. Post some phots, when you get the chance.

That is just too cool! Now, of course, I'll have to buy the 360 and the game, in the hopes that the sequel will support more Z related content (or at least that'll be my excuse).

Welcome to the site, and good luck with your potential purchase. If you don't get this one, I expect you'll find one sooner or later, since you seem to be terminally addicted to the Z line (not that that is badLOL ) Before you go, search this site for areas to check, areas that rust, and areas of general concern. That way you can go prepared with knowledge that might save you money.

Welcome to the site, you'll find all the information you'll ever need, and then some.In your search for a workable Z, you might want to check out the Nashville area papers, especially the auto saver/I Wanna variety. Then there are the JunkYards, and the odd car lot. If you are unsure about the quality of a find, take some pictures and post them, someone will chime in with suggestions/concerns, etc.

Headlights look better on the display model than current offering, I wonder if the hood bulge is purely cosmetic, or if there is a reason for it..., but that airdam would not survive one pass into or out of my driveway.

Ian, My condolensces regarding this temporary setback, one step forward, two steps back..., for now anyway. The important thing is that you were not hurt, and that no one else was. Also, the air dam is plastic, and is replacable, not steel and hard to repair/replace. Then there is the lesson to be learned by us all-30 year old spares should not be used, unless that use is as a prop at a car show. I guess I should invest in a new spare, and put my original colapsable one up somewhere. Anyways, you're okay, that's the important part.

In my search for parts, I came across the ZXman. He seems reasonable with his prices. I haven't ordered anything from him yet, so I can't vouch for anything, but he does have the part you are looking for. 340FIN Side Pillar Finisher 1979-83 $29.95 In Stock http://www.zxman.com/exterior.htm He also has some parts for the earlier Z cars as well. I have brushed aluminum peices on my zx, I think they look nicer than the black ones, but it may just be my color combination. Also, the only other set I've seen were painted aluminum, not plastic, though that may have changed with the year. =Enigma= had it spot on with his junkyard suggestion, there are still some around at the pick/pulls. Then again, there are others to be found behind sheds, forgotten about at used car dealerships, etc. Just keep your eyes peeled-now that you have a z car, you'll be amazed at how your eyes will seek out others, on the road, in yards, in TV shows/movies, etc. Post some photos, update your location (someone might live nearby with parts or a set of hands willing to help) and ask questions/offer suggestions here. The ZX is the minority here, but don't worry, you will find incredible tips and suggestions for most any problem you may encounter. Everyone here has something valid to add, and even if our (personal) opinions differ, our love for these cars tie us together in the quest to preserve and enjoy the Datsun legacy.

MINI Cooper S, no options, other than the engine upgrade-$21,450. Of course, if you want the John Cooper Works addtion, add $6,300-that gets you up to 207hp. About the 350- I actually prefer the look of the G35 to that of the 350, in fact, the preliminary photos I've seen for the midcycle refresh of the G look rather nice-lowered stance, longer, straiter nose-more go than show. I've sat in a friends 350, and while I found the interior to be well done (in terms of fit and finish) it left me feeling uninspired. Interior space was too small for my taste, and being 6'4", interior space is important to me. I had headroom and legroom, that wasn't the issue. What got me was the inability to recline the seat enough to give me a comfortable seating postition for long (or short) drives, while maintaining my legroom. Exterior-wise, the 350 is fairly attractive as an automobile, if not a little reserved. However, the taillights have got to go. I can deal with the barn-door handles, but those taillights are horrible. It's odd, I think, that Nissan had within it's grip, a group of designers who were willing to take a risk. The Renault Clio Sport V6-some find it to be ugly, I think it's beautiful, is a small enthusiat car. No frills, just design and perfomance. Another is the Puegeot 207. Both cars were designed and built up from pedestrian models, both are unique, and both cater to the enthusiast in ways that the 350 should. Unfortunatly for us, when the current version of the z car was pitched to the higher ups, someone managed to cut out the price to perfomance ratio, and presented an overpriced psuedoluxury sport-coupe, something they were already selling through the Infiniti division. I think that all we, as enthusiasts, can do is get into the design field, get jobs and Nissan, and promote change from within. Until then, we will all have to enjoy what we've got, and hope for change.

Yours will be the only one with class:rambo:

Assuming you get it off, how will you get it back on? If you have a spare one, and the stripping is not thread related, perhaps you could dab in some JB Weld, and attach whatever tool you wish to be rid of to it. Let it dry (cure), and detach. If you think that it just needs more tranny fluid, why not just pour some down the check tube until you can figure out where the leak is at?

Jumping in a little late here, but I think this will help you in the future. This is a link to atlanticz.ca They have a great reference area, well written, nice photos. I think that taking information and insight from our site and combining it with the visuals provided at the other site is a great benefit. I hope this will help http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm Welcome to the club

PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THAT I HAVE A -280ZX- I know that our cars are different, but our FI systesms are similar. That said, these are from my FSM. I hope they will be of some service.

You should be able to adjust your 1,000 RPM idle with the thumbscrew at this point, or maybe after the car fully warms up, she'll drop out of fast idle mode. Anyway, congrats for getting another small project done, now onto the next one...

Somebody started modification on this one, check out the rear window... sitting at 200 bucks, we'll see where it all ends up... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1978-Datsun-280Z_W0QQitemZ140046448510QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem There is a catch, however. It appears to be only for exporters, dealers, and dismantlers.

You've kept at it this long, and that's encouragement for the rest of us! That you've stuck at it this long, and still show enthusiasm, speaks volumes to your persistance and love of things Z. Keep at it, your getting there pal. Oh, and to answer your original question-I bought my zx on January 10, 2006-getting closer to one year, day by day.

Anyone got $60,000 to spare? I would try to post some smug assinine comment about this one, but I just can't. It has me befuddled, shocked and confused. A little scared. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-Datsun-260Z-1-Of-A-Kind-St-Legal-Sports-Car_W0QQitemZ300041439554QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6188QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If it were restored, don't you think he would have taken care of the rust on those quarterpanels? Maybe he meant to say "refreshed." At any rate, I hope that whoever ends up with the Zhawk is pleased, and will do nice things with her, I think that's more important.

It's bogging down all the time, moreso with the A/C. The A/C draws power from the engine, so it makes sense that bogging would be less without it in operation. I'm not so sure that this is ECU related, I think it's fuel system related. You've replaced the injectors, fuel pump, and AFM. What about the fuel filter? (could be all fouled up with crud). What is the condition of your gas tank? (your sending unit could be clogged with rust). FWIW.

If you want it done on the cheap, check out your local community colleges or trade schools. http://www.tafe.tas.edu.au/courses/automotive/shortcourses.htm My father had a Community college rechrome bumpers from an MG, as well as having an engine block dipped, for very, very little. It took some time, since the work was done on the student schedule, but the work was top notch. It's certainly worth a shot.

Matt, it has been chilly around here, hasn't it-no snow like Ed's gotten, I expect that soon, though. About the Cold Start thing-My 79 zx LOVES cold weather. She starts up every time on the first attempt. Warm/hot weather is her enemy. I know I have a couple FI/fuel system issues to contend with concerning that, and I am thinking that you and I may be on different ends of the same problem. How are your Thermotine switch, Air flow meter, and Cold Start Valve? Perhaps your Cold Start Valve is stuck in the off/closed position? Maybe it is disconnected? These are just a few musings-some things to check. I'm sure other, more knowledgeable voices will chime in on the matter with better suggestions, but these are things to at least check. Good Luck