zbane

Can't really help with shops in Asheville, but there's a place in Brevard that I'd take my car to. It's called Basically British, and while the guy works mainly on British cars (duh), he does know his way around Z's. I've not worked with him, but have dropped by his shop just to chat-seems a stand up guy. There are a few of us in the area, and even though I'm about 1.5 hours away (zip code 28717), I'd be happy to come by and lend a hand-though keep in mind two things: 1. I have a ZX, so I won't have all the answers for your Z 2. I'm self taught through trial and error (mainly error)

Being a ZX guy, I had to get them, and share them photographically. Had to resort to ebay-apparently these reissues where a short run only sort of deal, so if you want to find some for yourself, best start looking now.

Darrel, your logic is fair. It does seem true that the FSMs don't always cover everything, and something like this might have been overlooked (or not thought of) prior to printing. As my car is a 79, and therefore obviously not a turbo model, I'll concede that you're correct-especially if this is a zxt specific part.

Not trying to be argumentative, but there is no piece that draws air into the fan from under the car. The opening faces the rear of the engine bay, and has no tube attached-nor are there any holes or markings to imply that one was intended. As I've not got mine with me, I can't take specific photos of the unit, but here is the FSM page detailing the aux blower. Note that there is no representation of a downward pointing air intake. Perhaps it's different on a zxt... If so, I'll happily admit and accept my error.

Not so. Attached photos show the unit you've described.

...and where are the photos?!?!?!!?

Every now and then I search the internet for RC Z cars. This particular search included the term LEGO because I'd love to make a Z out of them, but that's a different matter... Anyway, I came across this site and figured I'd share (surprised it's not been mentioned before-or if it has, it didn't show up in the search) http://www.takaratomy.co.jp/products/qsteer/products/products.html If you poke around the site, there are a fair number of Nissan products, and they all look pretty darn cool if you ask me (but you didn't. Still, I'm telling you they look pretty cool). Just figured if you were looking for a neat little gift for someone, well you get the idea.

this keeps up, you might be one of the first to swap in an automatic tranny...

I'll offer up a fixing plate and mount from a S130 distributor. If I recall correctly, these are the bits needed (and often overlooked) for the upgrade from points to electric distribution (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) However, I seem to have misplaced the bolts that go with it... (edit: spoken for as of 6 pm est) I do have another set, but don't have the rubber gasket for it.

Perhaps I am mis-reading your question, but I don't need to press in the clutch to start my '79-found that out accidentally (good thing it was in neutral). More modern vehicles are set up to require the clutch to be depressed as a safety feature.

**bump** Any updates?

pics from post 1 converted to jpeg. Hope you don't mind...

Perhaps the list would be more relevant if we consider the phrase used by GRM to describe it: Not such a definitive "best of" list after all.

IMO this list is meant to represent the cars that have had the most impact on the readers of Grassroots Motorsports. This is, after all, the magazine that sponsors the $20XX competitions, has great write-ups of the 24 Hours de Lemons (for cars that cost less than $500), and features how-to articles for the average mechanic (with average tools and finances). Some of the cars mentioned in this thread (as should have been on the list) are way out of line for the average person to own, let alone race competitively. For that reason you see the Factory Five version of the Cobra instead of the real deal (same for the GT40). Whereas for just a few thousand dollars you can get yourself into a good condition Miata, early (mid 80-90s) BMW, Civic/CRX, etc., and go straight to the track-that's what GRM seems to be all about... Just my opinion.

I found the culprit regarding my broken speedo cable. In the attached photo I have circled a sensor that seems to creep into the cluster over time. It doesn't take much movement inward to block part of the mechanism inside. It seems that this blockage is what was causing my particular problem- I figured this out only after one had broken in there (good thing I had a spare). I found a couple small washers to fit, and this should fix the problem (I'll know once I order another new cable).

If I'm not mistaken, what was sold as a Nissan 200z in your area is better known in the USA as the 300zx (z31). If this I'm correct on this, then the similarities between your car and a 280 are few and far between. Could you post a photo of your car, or at least a year?

I'd go for it. The cost for a crack free dash should be enough of a reason (or the cost of having yours repaired). Even if that weren't the case, having a car to tear apart and learn from will help you immeasurably when the time comes to work on your own. Why risk effing something up on your main car when you can make those mistakes on a car you have no intention of using? (possible exception here being the dash-learn to remove one by removing the imperfect one) As for taking photos of the parts, that too can be a learning adventure and need not be a bore or trouble.

I came across this $5,000 71 on the Asheville NC craigslist http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/1448766615.html I've sent an email to the owner to arrange a viewing and will post photos once that happens, assuming it does. And no, I am not trying to hijack the original thread, I just didn't want to have another very similar one.

That's just cool. Or hot.

Wonder what the Salvage Title would be on that...

Turbo Welcome to the site, I'd love to see some more photos of that airdam-my lower valance is not as nice as it once was-and that looks fairly stock (for an airdam)

converted and changed the date. {edit} Admins: perhaps after this party is over the photo should be deleted, since it has phone numbers and directions...

Congratulations on possibly getting into your first Z car, for joining this site, and for posting photos in your first post! Rust areas... FRAME RAILS. In my opinion, that is the first place to look, and possibly your best negotiation point. Battery tray: Don't just look at it, take the battery out and get a good look in there. The way the tray is designed, all sorts of crud can get in there, but has no real place to go. Dirt, water, grime, battery acid, + time, you get the idea. Wheelwells, especially the rear ones, tend to collect water as well and rust out from the inside. Bottom edge of the doors-the rubber weatherstrip by the glass gets loose adn allows water down there, where it can collect. Not usually a serious matter, but worth looking. Floorpans-interior: If possible, lift the carpet and look underneath. Not the easiest thing to do in a ZX, but worth it. Spare tire area: For whatever reason, the wheelwell that holds the spare is a magnet for rust. That's all I can think of off the top of my head, I expect others will chime in. Good luck, and do post more photos of the car if you go look at it and have questions. There's nothing wrong with taking a day to really think about getting the car, so give yourself that time. If the seller pressures you to decide right now, you might just want to walk away.

I've got 15's on my zx, and like them quite a bit. Good to great traction in most circumstances (I drive mine in the rain... and the snow), with acceptable road noise. I have Sumitomos on my daily driver, and while they are good, I think the yokos are better overall.

Details? Where does it shake, what have you checked? Help us help you by giving relevant information.