zbane
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Everything posted by zbane
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A photo should explain it a bit better.
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photos for posterity sake.
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Since you have discovered an apparent blockage, I might suggest a complete drain (make sure the heater controls are set to hot so that the coolant in there can drain as well). How you do this is up to you, but I purchased a Prestone back flush kit and fit the "T" connector on the right hand side of the block behind the "J" tube between spark plugs 1 and 2. Fairly simple operation, cut out some of the old tubing, install, tighten, and follow directions. Others may have other ways to do it, but I like the kit since it allows you to top off the radiator from below the upper edge, helping force the air bubbles out.
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When my head gasket blew, none of the coolant made its way to the crankcase (or at least not enough to be visible). I had been overheating, and had replaced everything you have, including the radiator at 1 in the morning, in the rain. :mad: Have you checked your compression? That was the final indicator in my case, as well as the car simply refusing to start...
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Motsenbocker's Lift Off #4 worked well for me. On thick paint (I used it to strip my mirror housings) it takes a bit longer, but for what you are talking about it should work quite well, rather quickly. Safe and mild, though I would still suggest wearing some latex gloves (more to keep your hands clean than anything else). I found it at Lowe's, but I imagine any home repair place would have it or could order it. http://liftoffinc.com/
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www.zedfindings.com zeddfind"at"kos.net
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The Lucas Prayer (from my father who has had far too many dis-enlightening adventures with Lucas): "Let there be light!"
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I take it your move from NY went well, always a good thing... Brian (BRE-240Z) and I are both about 4 hours away-Brian in Asheville, myself a bit further west in Cashiers.
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Junkyard. Or, if none are around, I've got one that I could send you, or one that I could pull from a yard near me...
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What are you talking about? British Layland used only the best! After all, those fine British cars were equipped with top-of-the-line Lucas Electronics components!!! :stupid: (Any former or current British car owner of that period knows what I mean) Kidding of course, though it is interesting to see how the "sports car" design evolved differently from country to country.
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There are places that will (for a small fee) pack and ship everything for you. If you were to include or negotiate that additional cost into what you are asking for you parts, I imagine it would work very well for you and the buyer. FWIW
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There are two things you will need to do. Start by having new weatherstripping on hand, or if yours is still in good shape you will want to refresh it with some silicon oil or similar stuff because you don't want it to crack as you remove the trim or glass. If possible, wait to do all this until you have a nice warm day, or heat the rubber with hot water before starting to help keep it flexible. Starting at the corner, get a slim yet sturdy flat blade and gently maneuver it under the metal to metal seam along the bottom edge (if I recall correctly). Once it is under there a bit (doesn't need to be much, but a bit more is better), twist the lower edge of your flat edge upward. This should get the corner trim loose, though it might take a little convincing. The vertical connection slides off. Do this at all the corners (I'm not sure which edge "locks" the trim on along the top-some careful exploration will show the way). Once the corners are off, apply your flat edge between the trim and rubber and carefully work it loose. And for those that follow, please take photos as you go along to post and share, along with any observations, comments, suggestions, etc...
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I dropped by the local p&p to get a new to me rearview mirror and found this nice-ish set of floormats. They are designated 280zx driver/passenger mats, and I am looking forward to using them. However, the driver's side one is obviously looking rather worse for wear and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas as to how to repair the damage. I was thinking of carefully removing the carpet and sourcing some new loop from a carpet place, but don't know just how well that would work. Any suggestions would be great! Also, any information about these would be interesting to know (i.e. dealership addons, aftermarket, etc.).
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Some people are like Slinkies: Not really good for anything, but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs...
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What is a murder, but an extroverted suicide? -Monty Python
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It's been a long time coming, but I've finally gotten most of the interior done. Not all of it turned out as I had hoped, and when the can says "bonds permanently to plastic" you had best not believe it, not even for one second. I had some problems refinishing my dash as others have done (it kept cracking and cracking and cracking) so I ended up stripping everything off (it cracked for the last time right after I got the final layer of paint on :mad:). So I decided not to mess around anymore with trying to keep it as original looking as possible, so I cut out the cracks, applied 5 minute epoxy, sanded down, primed, sanded, reprimed, and shot with 3m rubberized undercoating (it flexes/stretches a bit). Followed with several light coats of black enamel. Word of caution for anyone who might try this: Reinstall all of your gauges before shooting the coating. Mark where everything fits, remove the gauges, and mask the areas where the gauges will go so that you may reinstall without having to trim down the excess-the stuff does build up enough to be a pain in the rear. The shift boot looked great until it was actually put into use. That special paint for rubber surfaces just doesn't cut it if those surfaces are actually meant to move. I had been thinking of getting my hands on a true leather boot, so if I can't solve this issue, I will simply end up doing that. Still have more to do (reassemble the steering wheel-the one in the photos is my spare, rear window surrounds, new rear deck pad, etc.), but that will happen as it happens.
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I know you can take off the fan that goes over the cylider head cover; I did this some time ago on my zx and have not discovered any difference in cooling. Odds are that you don't have the relays for it anyway, unless whoever swapped the motor did some splicing into your wiring harness.
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Very, very nice! I am not one of those that dislikes the lines of the 2+2 S30 models. However, a 2+2 S130 is ugly as sin (IMO, though I'm biased having an S130 coupe). The flares look great, as does the shaved end treatment (among other things).
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http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ Carfiche doesn't have a 75 listed, but does have a 76. It would be worth your while to download it (or get a Factory Service Manual elsewhere), as well as utilizing the search feature on this site.
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But did you notice that "they" left a perfect dash in place? Obviously the "thieves" didn't know the true value of that one part...:stupid:
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It's actually a fairly straightforward procedure. Just make sure you have all the items you'll need beforehand (tools, gaskets, etc.). Regarding the timing chain, there really is no "trick" to it. Once you pull the head cover off, dab a spot of paint on the chain and sprocket. Once that is done, wedge a piece of wood/wide handle screwdriver (handle down)/pair of pliers (handle down)/etc... Basically, you just want to keep tension on the timing chain guide. If that slip, then you have a big project on your hands...
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from a 79, but I don't think the radio wiring changed. Is the unit you mention the original or an aftermarket piece? Body_Electrical.pdf
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I have those holding up some vacuum lines as well as tidying up some electrical lines. Just where they were intended to go originally...no idea. I just have them bunching together several lines in an attempt to keep the bay just that much more organized.
