zbane

Here's another great resource for you to peruse: Dogma's great write up with photos... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19034&highlight=por+15

When i posted this two hours ago, it was at $701. Now we are up to $967..., and when I checked it about 20 minutes ago it was still at 701 I hope members aren't bidding against each other on this one.

Thought this might be of interest. The car looks pretty rough (especially the roof), but it does have a couple redeeming qualities... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z_W0QQitemZ270166473645QQihZ017QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem The car is located in WV THREE HOURS LEFT

Dave, was the one you saw like this one? From Zulaytr's gallery: Check out the Scarab rear quarters... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=25891&cat=500&ppuser=2127

Here is a nicely done one from zdayz- I love the license plate "zznotop." Note the relocation of the mirrors...

That's the eXtReMe sunroof... Personally, I like a well done convertible conversion though I know it isn't to everyone's liking. To digress a little: Some cars are perfect as hardtops, and loose that special something when the top is chopped off; be it by the company or private individual. Two cars that I think loose in the conversion are the newer models (2002 forward) of the Jaguar xk and the Audi TT. The hardtops are gorgeous, the soft tops decidedly less so... Others, like our beloved Z cars, look great both ways, so long as the conversion is done right. This one seems to have been done quite well. Just my opinion.

I would imagine that you should just go ahead and bleed the brakes. Before you do so, check all the lines (replace/tighten as needed) and go from there. Recently I had a problem with one of my reservoirs losing fluid. It was just a matter of tightening up the connection at the caliper.

Regarding the amount of oil for your motor, I really don't know-but it should be about 4.75 quarts. I do most wholeheartedly suggest that you do not go to a quickie lube type place. Nothing against them personally, but I have heard too many horror stories about not 1. replacing the filter with a new one (you are in the car and can not see it) and 2. not torquing on the drain plug enough or too much. If you do not want to do it yourself, go to a mechanic shop or dealership. For those folks, car maintenance is a full time gig, not a part time job. Now I know that not all quick lube places are bad, and if you know people there, or have had consistently good service, then good for you. I, however, am not willing to risk it.

You can indeed swap in a vg30dett into an NA car. There was a great write up of this procedure in a recent edition of Nissan Sport magazine. My suggestions are this: Find the Nissan Sport website and get a subscription (and back issues), and head over to twinturbo.net or z32.com Both websites cater to your model of Z car, and will be a wealth of information for you.

My guess (and that's all it is) would be that it is for an S130 or Z31. Why? Because my S130 has the same needle as that one. The seller claims that his friend was into the later Z's, but who knows....

I have had some luck in the past with similar problems by spraying on some PB Blaster. It won't harm the rubber, and is able to sneak between the hard and soft lines. It's worth a try, and if you haven't gotten any PB Blaster, you might as well get some-the stuff is great.

I don't think that there would be any problem with that, though I am concerned with something you said: "they are really stretchy." FI lines are interwoven with mesh and wire. They do not stretch. At all. Do the hoses say on them "For Fuel Injected Engines"? If they don't, they have fuel line for the carbie engines.

Razor blade. If you are going to replace them, you might as well cut them off. Loosen the clamps and slide them out of the way. Starting at the metal end, start cutting the old hose, but don't cut too hard, lest ye mar the metal.

Re the damper near the pump: My '79 zx has one as well, as Stephen stated, they were stock up through the end of the S130 line, as well as the 810/Maxima. What it sounds like to me is this: Your pickup screen may be collecting tank sediment (rust). As you drive, the fuel pump sucks up the gas, and with it the assorted crud that is in your tank. As you continue driving, more crud gets sucked up and eventually cuts down on the amount of gas that can get through. Have you inspected the interior of the gas tank? If not, I would suggest doing so. Since the previous owner didn't do much driving over the past umpteen years, there has been plenty of time for rust to develop.

It just so happens that there is an active thread going about this right now. There are a couple companies mentioned that work on injectors, and Stephen has posted a photo of his injector checker... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=27956

I wouldn't. It appears to be sound deadener (but what is under that?) Also, INTERIOR The original interior panels were red, have been repainted in black by previous owner, a well done job. The red interior is lovely! Why change it?

How about getting one of these for the S130. Personally, I think it looks better than the arita model. http://www.mjpshop.co.uk/product_info.php?id=96&pid=372 This kit was discussed here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21418 If your shop were to get one...and copy it...:devious:

If that was restored 6 years ago then my name is Lucy and I live on the moon! Look at all that rust!!!

John's got it right-just watch what you are doing and all should be well. It is my impression that the whole color/ticket thing started before technologies such as radar and laser speed detectors were in use. Red is a very noticeable color, some say it is one of the most popular colors for cars, especially for sports cars. As such, those involved with writing tickets would look for the red cars (since they did stick out, and were generally sports cars) and clock them. Now that electronic measures are in use, the patrol car can sit by the road and hit every car, regardless of color. Go with the color that you wish, and enjoy the ride.

Anchorman: The Legend of Ron Burgundy There are a couple Z cars in this on, but you've got to be quick to see them The first is visible as the helicopter (opening sequence) is setting down. The second is seen later on, but I don't recall just where.

Cheap with a Z? Say it isn't so...................................'cause it isn't And Congrats on the historic 1000th post, Nate. Cheers (gulp, gulp)

Because JimmyZ picture, while super clear and detailed (beautifully clean, even) is also super sized:p

The idler pulley is what adjusts the tension on your belts. The pulleys are the blue units on the left and right of the top photo. In the second photo, the pulleys are on the left side and between the water pump area and the AC compressor (far right) These were taken when I changed my water pump, so I know what you are about to get into. When I did this, I removed the radiator to give myself the needed room for work. When the time comes, I would be happy to provide you with radiator removal advice, as would anyone else on the site.

James, just look at it this way-now you can continue saving up while learning more about these cars, and you will be better prepared when "your" car appears on the scene. Timing is everything, and if you were to rush into a buy, you may find yourself on the losing end. Keep looking.

I agree with Stephen on this one, replace the unit asap, and don't drive until then. The job itself is not that difficult. But are you sure that it is the water pump? When my idler pulleys started to fail, I couldn't figure out where the noise was coming from. The sounds from the front end (which varied with speed) were droning squeaks and intermittent (and alarmingly frequent) wails. The only reason I mention this is because I do not want you to spend the time and money on parts you do not need.