zbane

One would think that for that amount of money everything would work. As to the "custom bumpers," they appear to be nothing more than painted steel bars. Ask the seller for photos of the frame rails, battery tray area, inner fenders, spare tire area, under the carpets, etc.

Will, if the owner of the car took equal care with the land, I would expect it to be a toxic waste dump! I wonder how many eyes the fish in the lake have (assuming they have eyes)

Poor thing:cry: But, hey, look on the bright side-that dash cap looks to be in good shape! However, this bugs the tar out of me I see the front bumper, so it should be included with the car, no? If it is not included, the seller should have pulled the darn thing off before snapping all of those shots.

My guess would be your starter switch-not the starter, nor the bit where you insert the key; but the bit behind the key cylinder that makes contact with the ignition circuit and other things. I had a similar experience with an old honda-it progressed quickly to the point where I had to hold the key in the ignition in the sweet spot in order to drive. Pull out your ignition cylinder and check all your contact points, repair/replace as neccessary.

It snowed a whopping 1/4" last night. The NCDOT decided to go ahead and salt the roads as they normally would, and here are some photos of the residue I accrued after driving 3.5 miles home. A heavy washing is in order as soon as we top freezing.

These poor quality photos of my FSM just wouldn't upload with the previous post, but here they are for reference.

As it turns out, you can remove the headlamp before the case, but it's a bit difficult, due to the cramped area involved, and the job would be much easier if one could access the retaining ring from the front. I suspect that that was indeed the intention of the designers, but for some reason I wasn't able to to manipulate the plate. At least now I know (and knowing is half the battle...) What you cannot remove as stated in the FSM is the headlamp case; the fender must come of in order to reach all three of the connecting nuts.

You are correct, Enigma. That is what and where you think it is, and it isn't the prettiest. The rails are an issue with this car, and will be dealt with soon, if all goes well. Here's a better picture, and this is the good rail :dead:

Try Harder. The metal plate that holds the lamp in the bay is difficult to move about, what with the AC line, inner fender, and the light itself getting in the way. But it can be done, if you are willing to risk bending something. Once you have the thought that something might be bent, and accept that possibility, with a bit of squeezing and a touch of extra force, the whole thing moves about-not out, mind you-but becomes workable. Since I already had so much of the front end off, I went ahead and pulled both fenders, so I could take off the sugar scoops. In doing so, I found an error in the FSM. According to the FSM, there are only two bolts attaching the bucket to the fender. This is incorrect. There are THREE, and the third one REQUIRES that the fender be removed in order to access it 'cause it's way up there. I found a few baby rust gremlins while I was in there, and have kept the fenders off until I can clean, prep and paint the inner fenders and wheel wells. The bumper went back on because not having turn signals irritates me, though I must say that the car is looking a little odd, being only half dressed, so to speak. Also, I think I may have found the cause of my wet floorboards, but I need to check the matter more. Anyway, thanks to all for jumping in. This has indeed been a learning experience, and quite a bit of fun, too. Oh, and yes I did change the bulb.

The back of the lamps can indeed be accessed from the bay, and yes, there is a metal shield that can be removed (note the "L"&"R" markings). The chrome retaining ring is attached to this plate. I can access two of the three retainer screws by unscrewing the metal shield, but cannot fanagle the plate to access the last little screw. I've not tried the right side, but it is behind the Carbon Canister and Coolant Resevoir-both of which appear to need removing in order to even reach the screws that hold the plate on. I'll be pulling at least one fender this afternoon, will post photos in the evening of the progress.

Thanks for the link, Arne! I had been looking around for those, but had no luck finding them. At @$50 a pair, this looks like a good deal, especially considering the sylvania halogen was about $15 per unit. The top portion is the "running light" area, I think that could be easily converted to handle turn signal duty, and there is some valuable real estate to be had in the fender for whatever "modifications" are needed.

Arne, my thoughts exactly! Now I am thinking about finding a combo lighting unit, not unlike what certain Mercedes Benz's have-the all in one headlight/turn signal combo lights, then I could do something different with the front bumper, though that is nothing more than a thought right now.

I've had my zx for just over a year now, and the driver side headlamp has just burned out. I've searched both this site and hybridz for the answer to this little question-How do you change the lighting unit? I went through the FSM, and it appears that I need to to take off the bumper, grille, valances (valenci?), inner wheelwell protectors, and finally the headlamp buckets (sugar scoops). I have done some of this, as you can see in the photos, but am being held up by the three screws that hold the center valance to the frame (rusted in for now). Without removing the entire valance unit, I cannot get to the last two screws that connect the scoops to the fender, and without getting the scoops off, I cannot remove the chrome headlight retaining ring that holds the lamp in. For the record, I tried getting to the light from the engine bay, but the light holder is trapped in the bay by other bits. From searching the threads, I have decided to go ahead and pull the entire fender off, and I'm OK with that, but I just wonder is there an easier way to change the headlights without taking off half of the car's body? I must say that I like how the car looks without the front bumper, however I don't like not having turn signals. And Yes, I'm going to change out both at once. It's the smart and safe thing to do.

You'll need to fix that. Zedd Findings has just the thing http://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm Drain holes appear to be included.

Yes, the drain plugs are there for you to manually remove any offensive liquid. It may be a ZX thing, but I think it a little odd that the drain plugs are not at the lowest part of the floor, but at least there are plugs, and they are easy enough to remove. Hope the photo clears things up for you.

needs work, but the price is right! currently at $450., with one day left. Located in Clearwater, FL http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/76011822_W0QQitemZ330104179650QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem No photos of the underside, nor of any ID plates.

Well, I've driven the recommended amount of time with the Prestone super flush, and decided to drain and flush today. Here's the result. It's the same!:mad: My suggestion to anyone cosidering this stuff is to not bother, it seems a waste of money. The only benefit of this little experiment was that I changed out another heater hose, one that could only be done with an empty system. I could tell that the rubber was breaking down, it was all cracked at the edges and had to go. I'm pleased to have gotten that piece changed, so at least it wasn't a complete waste of time.

Nice car, straightforward ad. I would like to see the seller post some shots of the undercarriage/floorpans, but other than that, I think the car is fairly well represented in the photos. Here are some for posterity.

I had clicked on the ebay link, and that one wasn't listed, didn't think about going directly to the homepage :stupid: Oops. , and now that I've got the comparison photo, I can make out the vinyl top of the 710. That 710 looks pretty good, couple trim issues (crooked badging) but cool none-the-less. Also much more reasonable at $7,400 for the sedan, vs. $19,800 for the Z.

Here ya go, Stickerman-and I agree, I think the car looks nice too, but the description does not fit the bill. Check out the other cars at that shop-some of them are certainly frame off resto jobs... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25295 Speaking for myself (though I believe others on this site would do the same), if I were to sell my car (ZX or other) on e-bay, or some similar service, I would list it as honestly as possible, even if my blatant honesty would cost me higher bids. Never would I list the car as "Restored" unless I had the documentation (pictures, reciepts, etc.) to back it up. http://www.autorestorer.com/articles/art115.html Regarding the seller of the Z in post 1, they should know what a Frame Up restoration means, considering the type of vehicles they specialize in selling (Classic, as in "Napoli Classics") Here's a beautifully done resto of an MG, check the difference in finish http://www.classicsandcustoms.com/search/MG_TF_16927.asp But, to get back on the original post, I'd like to know more about the blue Z in the distance.

I have been loosing coolant for a little while, first noticed coolant on several hoses, and sprayed up on the hood. It looked to me that there was a leak in the radiator, and that coolant was hitting the fan-then being sprayed. I was concerned that the water pump was the problem, but it has stayed dry as a bone, with no discernable green coolant marks, unlike the upper radiator hose. My original plan was to drain and clean the system, and try to find the leak. As a stop gap measure, I will be using bar's anti-leak stuff; however I didn't want to pour it into a filthy system. I check the oil fairly regularly, and haven't noticed it becoming creamy (water in oil), nor has it been dropping in level at a troubling rate (though it does burn some oil). I'll be draining the cleaning agent in a couple days, and will post photos of the results. I'll also try compression testing the cylinders, just in case the gasket is blown.

Today I decided to remove my rear bumper, just to do it-no other reason. I knew that there was some rust in there, and I figured I could clean it out real quick and spray it with rattlecan preventer, just to hold it over until I decide a couple things (bodykit or original...), but low and behold, it was worse than I imagined. The thing with bumpers is that you can't really see what is going on in the depths of the thing; so if you haven't pulled off your bumpers in a while, I would suggest doing so-perhaps you can stop the rustmonster before it gets like this. But it is more than a matter of rust, folks. You hope to never be in an accident, but should it happen, you expect your bumpers to protect the car (and you) to some extent. Seeing my bumpers for what they are (rust), I know they would not have been much protection. So Please get under there and check, before it's too late.

the Hemi was removed because the current owner wants a more "original" car, and he intends on street driving. The hemi is sitting in the shop's office, collecting dust as well.

Before and after engine bay shots Carl, I found the Hemi shot over at zhome, hope you don't mind-but I figured they should be together.