zbane

converted and changed the date. {edit} Admins: perhaps after this party is over the photo should be deleted, since it has phone numbers and directions...

Congratulations on possibly getting into your first Z car, for joining this site, and for posting photos in your first post! Rust areas... FRAME RAILS. In my opinion, that is the first place to look, and possibly your best negotiation point. Battery tray: Don't just look at it, take the battery out and get a good look in there. The way the tray is designed, all sorts of crud can get in there, but has no real place to go. Dirt, water, grime, battery acid, + time, you get the idea. Wheelwells, especially the rear ones, tend to collect water as well and rust out from the inside. Bottom edge of the doors-the rubber weatherstrip by the glass gets loose adn allows water down there, where it can collect. Not usually a serious matter, but worth looking. Floorpans-interior: If possible, lift the carpet and look underneath. Not the easiest thing to do in a ZX, but worth it. Spare tire area: For whatever reason, the wheelwell that holds the spare is a magnet for rust. That's all I can think of off the top of my head, I expect others will chime in. Good luck, and do post more photos of the car if you go look at it and have questions. There's nothing wrong with taking a day to really think about getting the car, so give yourself that time. If the seller pressures you to decide right now, you might just want to walk away.

I've got 15's on my zx, and like them quite a bit. Good to great traction in most circumstances (I drive mine in the rain... and the snow), with acceptable road noise. I have Sumitomos on my daily driver, and while they are good, I think the yokos are better overall.

Details? Where does it shake, what have you checked? Help us help you by giving relevant information.

The dam, it looks to me, is this one- just modified. Edit: just dropped the photo into paint.net and simulated cutting out the center section of the lower valance, as I suspect the owner of dam in question did. Fiberglass Air Dam, With Driving Light Pockets, 70-8/74 Z http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7AD1/50-1414

Depending on the extent of the damage, you might be able to source replacement parts. There are several vendors that sell frame rails and floorpans (Charlie Osborne comes to mind, but there are others). Post photos of the damage areas so that we might be able to help you better.

Well, welcome to the site. We want pictures, the good, bad, and downright ugly...

welcome to the group, hope that this time you'll keep the Z... Mighty cool that you found your old car... Now all you gotta do is post some photos-before and after pics would be interesting.

http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/1400214611.html I don't know the seller, and I "x" 'ed out the numbers here since this post will last forever...

ditto. Where you go with the car is entirely up to you, though I would keep the red interior (I think it's stunning, and you don't see it very often).

When I cleaned mine (about as bad as yours) I used Simple Green (not diluted) and Dawn dish soap with a small stiff plastic brush.

A locksmith will be able to reset the actual lock/tumbler mechanism to work with one key, unless the groove/guide line on the keys are different.

I would be willing to bet that the problem is not the relay. I had this problem myself, and found the cause to be a broken plastic plug on the brake pedal itself. Start at the pedal and go up. You will find a hole, perhaps with part of the plug still in it. This plug makes contact with the brake light switch. If it's missing, the switch remains in the out/open position.

White vinegar and water solution, applied with good paper towels. Once you've finished, use your windex with newspaper. Yes, newspaper.

The first thing you should do is drain out all the old gas, clear the system, install a new filter, check the tank for crud (it's there, trust me), pull the fuel pump and check the little screen on the intake side (assuming it's a stock pump), check and clean all the electrical connections you can find. All of them. And once everything is clean, put in new gas. Check your vacuum lines, replace as needed, or just replace them all-doesn't cost much.

Not being terribly familiar with the S30 line, would it be possible to tastefully weld on either a slanted plate or drain holes?

First guess: Rust or crud in the gas tank getting stirred up and pulled into the fuel line, most likely clogging the fuel pump's inline filter. After setting for a bit, the crud "relaxes" and allows semi normal fuel passage and delivery, but then the cycle repeats... Look into the tank, and let us know how it looks.

In what ways did your zx fail the roadworthy test? Let us know so we can help get you on the roads! Welcome to the site, and congratulations on you first (awesome) car

Gotcha and welcome to the site (you better introduce yourself, and we like pictures) !

I would, if for nothing else, peace of mind. Since one has failed, it's more than likely that the other will as well once the weaker of the two is replaced. Besides, you'll need to bleed the brakes anyway, so you might as well do both at the same time...

gotcha taken care of.

Assuming everything is connected as it should be, the next thing I would check is the new starter/solenoid. Wouldn't be the first time that a "new" part was faulty.

Saw this on the Nashville TN craigslist, thought someone would be interested. http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/1253622342.html

Looks like the Silver Surfer to me.

Talk about a "Clear" coat finish...