zbane

I'll have to wait to truly chime in on the Cube since I've not seen one in person, but I will say the Kia Soul looks pretty sharp in person. The one Nissan I wish would be sold here in the US is the Almera. Comfortable, sporty (in looks, to me anyway), practical, and spacious.

I use a bike rack made by Allen: http://allenracks.com/subpages/productsNew/trunk/103d.php It works well, though the only issue I have with it is that the hooks for the upper support aren't angled correctly to hook over the top end of the hatch. What I do is simply feed the hooks through to the interior and snug them up once the hatch is closed. I could simply rebend the hooks, but I don't know that I'd be able to use the rack on other vehicles. So far as the lower attachments, I loop them through my tow hooks (the s130 has two, not sure about the s30). What I find both humorous and somewhat irritating is that my bike is longer than my car is wide.

400 horsepower? Maybe if they're Shetlands...

As to the portion of your question regarding what method to use for welding, I have no idea. However, I do know that the metal you will need for the patches should be the same gauge or thicker than your replacement floorpans. As to how you might go about making those patch panels, I would suggest getting some cardboard, lining up the panels you have (mock them in place somehow) and mark the cardboard to fit. From them, you'll have your templates for the various pieces. And who said watching tv was bad...

for posterity and future relevance.

Congratulations Mike! I would have voted on the baby factory service manual, but apparently they don't exist... here or in real life. Now I guess you'll need to get a 2+2.

Eli, I think you are looking for louvers. If so, here you go: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/WL1

I went ahead and put clamps on both ends of mine, better safe than on fire. When it comes to the clamps, the chain stores do have clamps specifically designed for fuel lines. However (and this is just my experience) the clerks don't know they have them... When I've looked for them, I usually find them in the same area as the radiator/heater hose fitting supplies.

Well, head gaskets are a wear item. While it may be that your gasket has simply worn out, it may also be that you've got some buildup in your cooling system, and it just got to be too much and the coolant found a path of lesser resistance. I would imagine you could remove the head enough to check the surface for trueness, but in all reality, it would be much, much easier to pop off your manifolds, pull the head and have a shop check it out.

I keep my owner's manual at Will's house (ha ha), but the FSM goes with me pretty much wherever I drive; it's come in quite handy on the road.

This little Z was rolling yesterday, today a pile of mangled flattened metal. Not even the vin or door plate was readable/locatable. Not that you can tell from the photo, but the sugar scoops are metal...

Never grow up, never surrender!

Walmart has been good the last few days. Found several of the Black 510's and just today the GTR I've seen several collections from hot wheels that are make/model specific. I wonder if, now that they've released a good number of Nissan/Datsun vehicles, if they will release a set for us...

Personally, I think this one will fit the bill. Sure, it's only got three wheels and a jet fighter seating configuration, and most likely almost zero storage space, but... For those that don't want to go to the page, here are the basics: 0-60, 6 seconds. 100 miles to the gallon (small ICE powers generator. Electric motors propel vehicle) Top speed over 100 mph. Priced around $18,000 (hybrid)/$23,000 (all electric-200 mile range) http://www.gizmag.com/go/6842/

Tomo, AFAIK the turbo injectors have a higher flow.

They should, assuming they are NOT from a turbo car.

...No one that I know of raced a 1970 Nissan 240Z or a 1977 Nissan 280Z. ...in the North American market. The rest of the world, however, is a different matter... My 1981 car was a Datsun 280ZX, and the later cars were 1984 Nissan 300ZXs. My '79 is labeled as such on the rear hatch: Datsun 280zx by Nissan Transition time. There was never a Honda NSX.... sold by that name in the North American market. Acura was/is the "luxury" brand from Honda meant for the North American market (yes, it has expanded to other markets as well) and needed a luxury/high performance model for the Acura lineup. However, in all markets outside the NA one, the NSX was indeed labeled and marketed as a Honda, not Acura. Not picking on you, just a friendly reminder that we are talking about a car sold in many markets, under two different names.

Jeff, about the only advice I can give you on this one would be to remove the rail with the injectors connected. You could always remove the entire intake manifold assembly, but then you might need to replace the manifold gasket... However, if you go the route of removing the injectors from the mani, you could allow yourself on While I'm At It project-replace the EFI fuel lines from the injectors to rail (assuming you haven't done that-there's no telling how old they are)

As far as I know, there should be a plug in there. That hole was used in the casting process of the intake manifold, and there should be others like it under each of the runners (though I may be mistaken)

I would have to agree with Stephen on this one. I see quite a few areas of major concern... Depending on the price, and the quality of the engine, it might be worth purchasing for parts, and parts only.

Walter, welcome to the group! Things to check for on the ZX are Rust, Rust, and more Rust. Get under the car and look at the frame rails. They are prone to rust. If you can, remove the carpet so you can look at the floorpans. Also, check behind the seats. Specifically check the area where the floopan intersects a crossbrace (behind the rear seat mounts-you'll know it when you see it-the speakers are a few inches above the aforementioned piece) Check the underside of the doors-stuff gets in there, blocks the drain areas and gets the rust monster going there. Check the doglegs (the area between the rear end of the door/leading edge of the rear wheel well. Since the current owner has issues with the tank, you should probably take a look inside the tank. Access the tank by removing the foam pad from the hatch, remove the access panel (two phillips screws) and remove the sending unit. Pull out the battery, and check the tray and surrounding area. Check for rust around all the stainless window trim-dead center, bottom edge of front glass is prone to rust (no drainage) Those are just a few areas to check-obviously rust is an issue... Mechanically, check the coolant for oil, and the oil for coolant. If you can, run a compression check on all six cylinders. I imagine others will chime in with other areas of concern. Whatever you do, dont look at the car with your heart-keep your emotions in check, unless you like writing a lot of checks...

http://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/bodyf.htm Charlie Osborne should be able to sort you out.

I think you have the answer at your fingertips, literally. When you state you have replaced the ignition switches, do you mean that you replaced the tumbler unit where you insert the key, or the wiring harness that attaches to it? My guess is that it is the wiring unit that has failed-the actual ignition switch. If possible, check the contacts on the unit, and check the tumbler assembly. As to your thought that your issues are related to the tachometer- Our ZX models will operate just fine without having an operating tach. For that matter, we can drive our cars without the entire dash assembly-no instrument cluster at all (I speak from experience)

DeMoore- I added you, smack dab in the middle of Covina.

Now it's time to get another one! Congrats on finishing-the finished product looks great!