bloxman

240zman, Enigma Thank you for your inputs O.K. so I spent a hour and a half at the wreckers this morning. Success!!! I'll have my work cut out for me this weekend ! Good news is the fluid looked cleanand an ample amount when we broke the lines. The calipers looked dry on the outside so perhaps I can use them without rebuilding them! Photos if I progress tonight Gotta head back to work Blox out

kcdc , Yes I had to drill mine out as well. get em out a dere! I went to the hardware first with the screw as a pattern and got two more. Simple fix. Good luck Bloxman

So I purchased a pair of toyota 4 x 4 front brake calipers a few months ago from a auto wrecker here in Grenada and spent a lot of time cleaning wire brushing prep for high temp paint , getting brake pads and ordering a beck arnley hardware (springs) kit from Amazon. (one of the calipers was missingthe springs and pins) Upgraded the rubber flex lines with Stainless braided Russel ones removed the old calipers Got the old calipers off, removed the dust shields , cut out an appropriate amount to accomodate the new larger calipers ,painted the dust shields. installed the dust shields and new used calipers rehooked the lines and then had a look. Crap! There is a big space between the inner brake pad and the rotor! Apparently I inadvertantly got the Finned brake caliper from vented disc toyota pick up. It would appear I goofed again, so I went back to the Wreckers today , who smiled and said he would be glad to exchange a pair of dirty S12.8 calipers if I can find them for my virtually new looking S13W Calipers. The catch is that I can't have them til tommorrow , thats when I will find the time on the way home from work to see if I can loosen the wheels from the front axle and remnents of the chasis to determine if they are indeed S12.8 calipers. Geeesh! Just a nother day in paradise. I may keep the W 's though a few links suggest it would be an even better upgrade to go with the S12.W Calipers buy a spacer for the hub and get the vented rotors..HMMh maybe later . I 'm not getting very far , but I sure try hard! Everybody have a good evening Blox

sblake01 Thanks buddy , that is exactly the kinda concise answer I was looking for, I will give it a whirl and keep you posted on any developments. Blox out

O.K. so its a good news bad news thing. So I managed to get the fan working . (good news) It was a lot of work for nothing very complicated, (See pic # 155), I completely scaped the heater controls facia panel , console for about the fifteenth time and couldn't find anything wrong and was contemplating taking down the duct controls when I discovered I'm an Idiot . (bad News) Ahh, so I had previously decided / interpreted that the missing fuse from the fuse box labelled (A/C) to have zilch to do with the fan / heater switch. You know that sound that Homer Simpson makes when he does something stuipid - Duooh. Well make that sound now. So next phase, help me to interpret the wiring diagram Have a look at the attached .jpg of the wiring diagram And based on that what is Pic #153 A) the Thermo Switch for airconditioning B)Control Switch for Air conditioning C) Fan switch for Air Conditioning Based on the fact that I have no wires coming to or from the item in # 153 could I be missing a portion of wiring harness? I have spent a considerable portion of time upside down with my feet in the air and the back of my head on the drivers side floor so I am reasonably sure it ain't there or tucked away somewhere, I replace the speedo cable a couple weeks ago and would have noticed a harness with nothing connected to it. I would really appreciate some thought here guys Regards Bloxman

O.K. I've read dozens of threads on blower motor problems . They seem to deal mostly with 240 's . I have a ' 75 280 and the fan will turn if I apply an external power source. Will not turn with the switch My console wiring is a bit of a mess dry rotted connecters.. and a few cut wires. I was wondering if the blower motor was suppsed to have an inline fuse holder under the console like the earlier models? I have looked over the wiring diagram for the 280Z and I cannot see a fuse holder , assume it would be shown. Um I also have the little rotary control over my right knee for the air conditioning, once again I have no wiring for this.. are these units linked and that is my problem? Or are they independant of one another. Hopefully finishing up with my console this weekend any help would be greatly apprecited Bloxman

Hi there everyone Has anybody a picture showing the position of the Fuel evaporater Canister In the engine bay? I find it will be a tight fit below the fuel filter to the right of the "A/C sight glass thing", and above the lower rad hose ; but it seems to me that is the only place available. Thanks guys Regards Bloxman

Ah today is May Day in Grenada . I beleive it is meant to be a Trade Unionist version of Labour Day. The long and the short of it is ; its a HOLIDAY!! Which makes it a Z day! To make it extra special my wife returned home last night from Miami with a host of ebay toys for my project. I received some interior components that i was missing. .. The knobs for the temperature controls, a few console lights, and the panel on the drivers side for my trunk , you know stuff to fill up the holes. Unfortunately the airline would not let my door panels fly with her to Grenada , even though when contacted by phone they assured us they would. So not finished with the interior yet .. no big deal the panels need to recover to match the Recaro Clones I am planning to install.( Hmm, I wonder when the next holiday is?) Anyhow they will get here when they get here. But I digress , so I had a brilliant day with the dremmel making a few alterations to the console: Check it out By the way what was the sorta squarish hole that used to be between the seatbelts light and the other light for? Don't know what I was missing cause I didn't have anything there. Everybody have a good night

Very , Very Nice Congradulations 2003Z Broused the link, I guess they don't do a Volt gauge ,eh? Blox

Hi there I was just searching ebay for 280Z and came across this auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-280Z-Engine-Trans-and-Computer-Rebuilt_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQihZ009QQitemZ190106236610QQrdZ1#ebayphotohosting Thought it potentialy seemed like a decent deal for $200.00 + Not applicable to me as I live in Grenada so I can't exactly drive there to pick it up. If this post is not appropriate , I won't do it again was just thinking a Illinois cluber might benefit. everybody have a crappy day at work and a wonderful evening working on your Z Bloxman out

Thanks zman112233 I'll give it a shot , I was really worried the whole box would have to come down. Regards Bloxman

SO I got a replacement Speed ocable off Ebay and I managed to fish it into the back of the speedo with my foot on the roof and my head up against the pedals . Tricky tricky and it only slips into the bacvk of the spedo one way Yikes , went or a little drive .. Nothing I took the end off the gearbox and Spun it with a drill and voila it works.. So any body have any ideas about what is wrong obviously Nothing Wrong with speedo Nothing wrong with cable SO ..Gearbox,Speedo drive gears ?I've read a lot about various coloured drive gears but.. i am unsure if these are in the gearbox itself. I feel there is something missing where the cable screws in as well there is a flat spot surrounding the area where the cable screws in , and am empty threaded whole, perhaps A collar of some sort? Maybe cable cannot drive without this Collar in place? If The tranny has to come down I think I'll wait until I can lay my hands on a clutch and pressure plate Regards Bloxman

O.K. I am a little confussed and I am probably putting myself in that way for no good reason So I am trying t o decide what clutch will fit my Z best Now bear in Mind that I have a 1975 280Z that was supposed to have a L28 but now has a L24 . I also have a early five speed gearbox. I do not have the Turbo flywheel . So based on that anybody have any recomendations? By the way, I really like ebay stuff, makes life relatively easy as I am in Grenada. If anybody bought a clutch Kit on Ebay and you are pleased let me know. But its hard to shop when I 'm not sure what I'm liiking for. What information is more important the L24 or the gearbox or ____? Always appreciate all the input I receive Bloxman

nwcubsman, and MikeW Thanks for your thoughts guys! any particular oil I should be using for this test;? or should it be same rating as in the engine at the present. and while we're talking about oil; I currently have 10w30 but put this in only for initial start-up and fiddling in the garage. It would normally use 20w50 in a gasoline engine in the Grenada. Temperature is typically 84' all day every day. Average speed probably hovering around 40-50 mph to and from work (around elen minutes each way) ,with some stop and go during the day (coffee, errands and lunch). any reason why I shouldn't use 20w/50? Have a good dayeveryone Bloxman

Morning So the results are in from the back (firewall) to the front(radiater)?sp 150, 152, 170, 160, 155, 160 The plugs were black powdrery so too rich right across the board the fourth plug(160) was a trifle black and damp looking (just a little richer again ?) didn't look like oil (not that wet looking) So whats the general consensus on the compression Good Bad Indifferent In general I find the car to be a lot less powerful than I would expect. Anyhow , thats another matter we can sort out It may have to do with the gearbox /diff combination, and tire size. Regards Bloxman

PICT0150.JPG Position of linkage with mount using one bolt to hold it geometry seems straighter but..seems to bind more (too stiff) PICT0151.JPG Good shot showing linkage shifted over by one bolt hole PICT0154.JPG showing linkage put back in original position PICT0155.JPG Relative angle of linkage in original position PICT0156.JPG Rod with two red ends (which I feel is to long), also I feel the "Tab" that left end of rod attaches to is in a awkward position . I am feeling that if the rod was shortened (providing shortening will still allow complete throttle opening), and /or the tab's position was changed then the linkage will function more smoothly. come back Bloxman

Mark Ah actually the spring was stronger last week than today. I replaced the spring that I found on the setup as it appeared broken and a piece straighten and clamped below on of the plug wire loom bolts. I replaced the spring with a very similar spring from NAPA that felt a little softer and had two handy rings on the ends. I find you comment about two springs logical I guess I should contact redline and see if the will sell me an additional spring to shaft lever. Ya the Geometry at the firewall is crap!. Thats why I'm looking for "Thought, Recomendations". I had tried a softer spring , but I found it was too soft . When driving the car I felt it didn't have the strength to fully seat the "throttle plates" because when I took my foot off the gas the car wouldn't come down to idle without sticking my foot behing the gas pedal. Though, perhaps with two softer springs when I get the additional lever perhaps two lighter springs might work real well? I'll shott some pics

Geezer Nice pic. That is going to help a lot. When you say "when I mocked mine up" are you saying you have Webers also? As far as the diagram you sent, yes that system (70-78 accelerator controls) is exactly what is there. but... I am thinking that maybe I will need a shorter version of # 10 (rod), it lists three different part #'s for 240'Z, 260/80'Z, ZX'z Mine just seems ridiculously too long Also the greyed out piece beside #'s 12, 11 does not show the "tab" on it that the #10 rod attaches to. The tab seems at the wrong angle . Anyway , I think the previous owner was going to do a V8 swap on this car and may have altered things slightly. I'll put things back the way I found the and shoot some picks for dicussionary purposes. Thanks again

I am experiencing some throttle linkage issues with my triple Weber 42 DCOE's I am thinking that because my car was originally a EFI (1975) that perhaps the positioning of the arm and swiveling bracket that mounts on the firewall may be slightly different than say an earlier Z that originally came with carbs. I have tried a variety of configurations to get the arm to line up square and tidy to the Carbs , the only thing that works even remotely well , is to leave out one bolt to the firewall and move the whole mechanism to the second whole. works o.k. looks like sh#t. This is the only situation I can think of where being too stiff is not good. Sorry if that was in bad taste just sorta slipped out Any thoughts? recomendations? Regards Bloxman