bloxman

Zedrally I have no idea as, I purchased the car with neither the voltage Regulator, (did the Alternator upgrade as a solution to that), nor the shunt. Bloxman

Hey Tomohawk What's Happening? So theoretically I could make a shunt, But if I screw it up I'll burn my mostly fiberglass bodied 280 to the ground. O.K. so maybe I should look for a replacement. Bloxman

Enigma : That is a mighty kind offer! Was it an offer? I could try and take a decent picture of the connecters if that would be any help. But I really do suck at photagraphy. Thanks again Bloxman

Walter Moore: Sorry, I always fail to remember to include my year of manufacture. 1975 280Z you said: "If your shunt is missing, and the car still runs that means that the Ammeter has been by-passed." Well, I guess your right because the ammeter does not move and the car starts with one bounce of the key. you said: If I remember correctly on the later cars it is mounted in the engine compartment somewhere. That would make a lot of sense , as there are two thin white with red stripe wires, and two large white wires with red stripe attached to a pair of white plastic clips (just as the wireing diagram depicts for the 1975 208Z) Thanks Walter

So any ideas where Ican aquire a shunt? I live in Grenada in the Caribbean so I do not have access to hundreds of Z's that are just lying around. Bloxman

Sounds frightening! So the shunt is there to protect the Ammeter during start up. Aside from a replacement shunt what can i put in there? what makes the current go through the shunt instead of the ammeter? A big resistor? That would make the current flow through the shunt instead wouldn't it?

Ah so my car is missing it's shunt so .. 1) my ammeter doesn't work (I thought it was busted!) 2 I don't know what one looks like (cause it missing remember?) , any one have a picture of their shunt? 3)I have no idea where to get a replacement unit. 4) could one conceivably build one? Using the search: I found this only relavent reference to shunt) " on my 75-280 I only have 1 fusible link box, located on the relay bracket. Underneath this box, is a metal box, 2" x 2" x 6" and it contains a copper strip, shaped like a "m", and 2 glass fuses. 2 large gauge wires ( 8ga maybe ) one white and one white/red connect to the large metal strip, and 2 light gauge wires, same colors, connect to the 2 glass fuses. My question is : is this unit the fuse for the charging system ? Thus can be replace by 60 amp fuse. FSM shows 2 normal fusible link boxes, but this metal box appears original,connects to harness ,etc. Voltage regulator is mounted underneath this relay bracket." So he never got a clear answer to his question can I replace the shunt with something I could make?

jfairladyZ What ? O.K. so I think I get it . Crimp a wire (Green and red might be a good idea) and feed it through the firewall to the charge light that lights when you turn the key forward (acc) but before you start.? then run it back to the Fuse box and fasten the wire to a terminal holding the fuse for the ignition. Have I got it? Sorry I haven't looked at the board for a cople of days I have got a winner of a cold. I might even take tommorow off work. well at least the morning. I cannot breed! bloxman Thanks again jfairladyz I'll let you know how this turns out.

sure no problem take your image and remove the male clip (from the voltage regulator) cause i never got a voltage regulator with the car. As this would be hard to get a replacement for and a step backwards in my mind anyhow I mean internally regulated is where it is at. Every thing else stays the same accept where your image shows the blue wire my wire is supposed to be Green with a red trace. Accept that it is conspicuously abscent. Connecting the green&red to white&black so... the lamp to windings common. my #1 wire is abscent. There is even a very tidy looking clear plastic plug inserted in from the back side of the engine side of the voltage regulator harness (looks Factory) I'm Bloxman

JfairladyZ Negative I have neither a green and red nor a blue wire. The nearest I can tell the green and Red wire should have originated at the safety interlock on us models I'm Bummed thanks all the same Bloxman

thanks for the advice Beandip Message sent

I have a drive shaft that looks like its for the V8 swap. Your welcome to it if you like ...Thouh bear in mind I lve in Grenada so .. The shipping might be outragious Bloxman

Hi there I hope somebody is out there I am trying to Carry out the ZX Alternator swap on my 1975 280Z Here is the problem Alternater is up and the connections are back on one is supposed to connect the White wire to the Yellow wire and the Green wire wuth the Red trace to the White wire with the Black trace. There is no green and red wire.! Help!!!!!

Hey jfairladyz you still around? Hold on a minute, if what you say is true: "Connector #4 in your list appears to a combo connector. This connector goes to the backup lamp sw, inhibitor sw, oil pressure sw, top gear switch. " Does that make it(my connecter #4) the Connecter labeled " C 13" in your attachment. cause : if so... I listed (and phsically counted and wrote down the colours and there were six). Connecter C13 shows eight connections...Ah Am I cofused not getting some thing or what? Really sorry to be a pain in the a## but I really want to do this right. Bloxman

Thanks jfairladyz That is great help... I'll give it a whirl in the morning. Thanks again

Hi there everybody I still need help with these connecters I have tried to produce some beter pictures I am trying to rewire my 1975 280Z and one of the previous owner did a hack job on the wiring. I only have female white plastic conecters in the engine compartment. No males or wire ends I am attempting to wire the car so I can start her with the key and have power to the auxileries like turn signals ,etc.. Just below the Battery are three connecters Connecter 1 (middle connecter 1st photo) The wire colours are: Green White with a black Trace Black Yellow White Connecter 2 Top connecter picture #1 The wire colours are: Green Blue Yellow Connecter 3: Bottom Connecter picture #1 Green Connecter 4: Picture # 2 Connecter 1 Red with black trace blue with red trace black with yellow trace (large) yellow with black trace green Black with yellow trace (small) Specifically I am looking for: the "Black & Yellow" wire (haynes Manual reference to starter removal) that goes to the starter solonoid . See two on connecter #4 Same haynes manual names the wire "yellow" on page 246 wiring diagrahm. It would seem more possible that the yellow wire from connecter #1 is what I am after. It is the yellow and black wire in connecter # 4 that has me confused This connecter would seem to far away (closer to Alternater) to be connected to the Starter so which wire goes to the "s" on the starter solonoid

Evening everyone How is the weekend going so far? I have made a little progress on my 1975 280Z /Ferrari 250 GTO kit like I drove her around the yard at work and she is absolutely nuts.If you read my post the other night about Started first time in fifteen years, you will know how stoked I am. So now I would like to do some proper wiring. I have downloaded the wireing Diagram for my year of manufacture I have downloaded the Atlantic Z Alternater upgrade and printed it. Today I purchased an Internally Regulated alternater and I was trying to make a little progress, but all I could get was frustrated. The colours in my wiring harness don't seem to match their close There seems to be an awful lot of electical stuff missing from this car. This white two part connecter has no where to go(see picture ), from refering to the digram I beleive it clips to the shunt. What is a shunt? Anybody have a picture? Has any body got any high quality pics of the first few circuits showing wire colours as one leaves the battery and moves along the passenger side fender

O.K. so never mind, i followed the link and... The centers I have look nothing like that Sorry I can't help out Lawrence Bloxman

Say, I've got four extra rims that came with my car ,I thought it was a styalized "d" on them but it might be an "A" .your welcome to them if they match. Fairly rusty(surface) if I recall correctly. Reguards Lawrence Bloxman

Thanks for the thoughts Virto . HLS 30 has offered to take some pictures for me ,I will check that link though. I spend more time editing what I type than typing it, I wish I had taken typing in grade nine with all the chicks! I would have been better off. 'course I probably wouldn't be a able to weld or run a metal lathe if I had. so i'll just spell check!

For starters; How about 1)the complete A/C system form the condenser to the hoses where they unscrew from the evapoater. 2)The steering coupler plates 3)The ignition cylander and key with the piece that has the wires hanging out the back. 4)The fuel evaporater cannister

Thanks Virto Ya I'm, well I just can't even put it in words. So I'm thinking I'm going to weld up the exaust tommorrow and see if I can get her to idle a little.Got any good ideas how one would fabricate a linkage to operate three seperate chokes on weber carbs. Thanks again Blox

Good Evening every one! I needed to share a little bit about my day today. I have found out I have a P30 block and an e88 head, apparently from what I have read (thanks to Verto and sakito for the links to the great info on identifying drive train components) ,that should be kinda good. Big valve head , and a flat top piston block. I ran a wire from the battery to the ballast resistor and out the balast to the coil and out the coil into the distributer today , ran a second wire to the starter and touched the two of them to the positive. Woohoo ! after about twenty turns of the fan ; Brooooom! (can you say broom after Forty? @#$% it, I don't care ,I'm stoked), for about a second and then a big flame fart out of the rear most carb, I reiterate woohoo! it isn't all there but I've proven it will run So not bad for an engine that sat in a garage for the last fifteen years, decent progess considering I've owned the car since July the 8th and it spent 3 weeks in shipping! Woohoo! Sorry about all the woohoos Bloxman

Thanks Virto Absolutely fantastic link! Its like I just had my first day at Z school Is everybody in general agreement with the info on this page. It certainly is presented in a well thoght out format. I intend to print the contents from that page and do some research ,find out what i actually have and go sit in a quiet corner and think. Anybody a quiet corner I can borrow my corner has a job two kids and a wife in it. Thanks again Virto

Hi there how is everyone tonight? I'm sorry but this is gonna be long. I am in the opening stages of my 1975 280Z /ferarri gto 250 project. I am in need of some assistance and opinions to make some informed choices. I have a stock 1975 280 Z Fuel injection Engine of unknown condition. it has a factory exaust manifold, I believe it also has a header to match/replace said manifold, as the header has a tube for an air senser. I also have what i was believe to be a 240Z engine with a triple weber 42 dcoe setup on a cannon manifold.it has a set of headers also-no senser tube. I have read in the forums about L24 Engines and L28 Engines, which is better? Why? how would I identify either of these? I have three 4 speed gearboxes two seem identical, on one the tailstock seems different. How would I identify them as to series, ratios, which is better? Why? I have one five speed. Is it better than having a five speed just cause , or are the five speed ratios better. There's gotta be a reason they made a four speed , and the same applies to a five speed. I have one diff installed in the car, and an extra complete rear suspension including diff. I have read references to R180 diffs and R200 diffs, which is better? Why? How can I tell them apart. I have a variety of driveshafts,tho that fit the diff not in the car. One that fits the diff in the car but looks like the spline end would likely fit a GM turbo 400 transmission. It is my first choice to go with the carb engine based on the fact that I have zero experience tinkering with gasoline fuel injection systems .(Read that as fear of the unknown) My first choice is the five speed .More is always better. five bucks is better than four bucks, nuff said Only the turbo 400 looking driveshaft would bolt to the diff in the car. I removed the plate that is secured to the input of the diff with the large nut and swapped it for the plate on the other diff. now the other two driveshafts fit. I would want to think a drive shaft that fits between your diff and gearbox is better than one that can't fit sorry this is a book, but need to know bloxman