bpilati

I actually visited MSA recently, and took a look at the latest version. It is better than the one I received, so I'll probably order one when the time comes.

Looks like we have a duplicate thread here. For original look, go here: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ They carry the original paint color used in the 240Z restoration program by Nissan.

http://www.classicdatsun.com/ Talk to Les Cannaday about the correct paint which they used in the Nissan 240Z resto program. He carries this paint for the rear panels, grill and original wheel covers. I also recommends powder coating if you want it to hold up longer, for instance the grill.

They are usually installed in a useless location where they provide no protection at all. They also look blingy. Dump them.

Because the Precision seals make it hard to close the door.

It appears that the Sportage seal does not have the corner bend molded in like the Z molding does, so I guess you have to be satisfied to live without it.

How does the Kia seal handle the up right (driver's side) sharp corner?

Hmmm, how is the upper door corner covered by that?

And you found it fully satisfactory both operationally and material quality?

Interesting, I learned something today. Because I installed my moustache bar without every accessing that hole or putting a wrench on that bolt. I did it all from underneath.

Can someone recommend the best place to get the Volvo 850 and Kia Sportage seals? What are the exact years used on your cars? Thanks, I'd like to get these this week.

I thought the ballast resistor needed to remain for the tach.

Yeah, it'll make the rear glass melt right out of the frame.

Thanks for the info, guys.

Which Volvo?

You powder coated stainless steel window frames? To each his own.

You powder coated your doors?

The question is, how much do you screw with it, before deciding you were better off before you adjusted?

Thanks. Well the body shop is just paranoid about messing something up. They think it should close perfectly.

I'm having a MAJOR issue right now with both of my doors not closing right. The car is at the paint shop, and has been for a very very long time. Well after finally getting it painted, the reassembly is underway and mostly done. However the doors do not close correctly with the new door seals from Precision. The body shop says the doors, fenders, etc are all lined up as perfect as can be done, and that the door seal is at fault. My Z friends are telling me that everyone uses the Precision seals and almost all are able to make them work. So who's right? The body shop took the seals back out because they're afraid of bending or denting the door trying to close it so hard. The body shop says if they start shimming the doors and adjusting fenders, etc everything will then be off and not lined up like it is now. I need some serious advice here! BTW, these are the 280Z door seals that are supposedly not as thick as the 240Z seals, so I don't know what options are left. HELP!

Then it matters that you'll back your seat up against it.

Be careful what you install in your car. Installing an inertia reel can actually increase the kinetic energy seen by the mounts. If the mounts weren't designed for the load, a failure may occur. Upon impact the vehicle slows down, however you continue at the same velocity; thereby increasing your velocity with respect to the vehicle over time. By the time the inertia reel locks, your relative velocity will likely be higher than if you were wearing the stock 240Z restraint that was hardmounted with no reel. Furthermore if you install an inertia reel into a car incorrectly, it may not even lock upon impact. Check the condition of the restraint material as well. Remember that Kinetic energy = 1/2 * mass * (velocity squared), so a change in relative velocity can dramatically increase the energy at which you strike something in your vehicle or the force exerted upon you by your restraint.

'71 doesn't have the inertia reel pocket behind the seat.

I have a 72 4spd and no cutting necessary.