bpilati

The simple, yet sophisticated styling that simultaneously serves a utility purpose. Example: the map light, the interior door handles

Kenny, I bought a seat kit from Les Cannaday (seat covers and foam) for $395. I did the driver's seat, big improvement. I also added some jute padding in the lumbar area, it worked well. Now I had replaced the elastic straps that support the foam cushion. I did not buy the kit that is available. I made it up myself long before the kit was available. It is the same elastic strapping material (only one layer thinner), and for the lateral strap (under the butt) I used nylon seatbelt strap because it doesnt' stretch as much. I also put some canvass between the straps and foam to help the foam last longer. The seat is awesome, and I think the extra lumbar padding would help your back. Also, the new foam is a must in my opinion, because the old foam is somewhat compressed and worn. I'm getting ready to do my suspension as well. New OEM spec springs, KYB shocks, Energy Suspension Polyurethane in key locations, Suspension Techniques sway bar kit, and KYB bump stops. I don't like the red bushings in the sway bar kit but I guess I'm stuck with it.

Les Cannaday at Classic Datsun Motorsports also sells the Hyperflex bushings. Support your small Z businesses if you can. I think he's worth our money.

No Z ever rode like a Buick, I can't imagine where anyone would get that idea. There is one person around here that thinks the Z handles like a wallowing hog or something like that. Anyway, your 30+ year old springs have probably sagged some and lost a bit of there rate. Springs that are too stiff can negatively affect handling as bad as springs that are too soft.

Well I know Z mechanics that would beg to differ with that opinion. These are people that install the Hyperflex Systems regularly. There is no way that you can install a less compliant rubber and not affect ride firmness.

I understand the principle I think, but I've never heard of it. Ice Tech

Heart wrenching!!!!! The horror!!!! :dead:

In the very near future you will be able to buy spring sets made to Nissan OEM specs for 240Z's. I worked with a spring manufacturer, and Carl Beck, to get OEM spec springs manufactured once again for those that do not want to lower their cars or use stiff springs. Keep your eye open on Courtesy Nissan's website. DATSUN OEM SPRINGS ARE BACK!

I don't have a pic and my digital camera is busted.

Brian, my Z doesn't look like the pic right now. I'm in the middle of paint and body work.

Pssst, get the BRE spook from Les.

I wish I had the room to put mine up like that. Unfortunately I don't and it's a daily driver for now. I did put new seat covers on the driver's seat. Wow, what an improvement!

Yall acted like a bunch of juveniles!!!! I like it. :devious:

Let me know how that works out, will you? Thanks.

Since we have a Scarab forum I think we can safely say that Scarabs belong here. There has been long arguments about JTR and other conversions. Study, study, study BEFORE you do anything. Scarab was not a conversion in the same way as JTR, but a company that converted Z's and sold parts for DIY. The central purpose of the JTR conversion was to get a certain transmission in the proper location in the Z. All else followed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1976-Datsun-240Z-Scarab-Chevrolet-327-V8-Brochure-Lot_W0QQitemZ7181599669QQcategoryZ13561QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Better clamp on to this by 17 SEP.

We had a discussion on the IZCC mailing list, and data was presented that indicated that the BRE spook performed the best of all spoilers/air dams tested. I do not have a technical report in hand, so don't ask. This does not mean that the other products performed poorly.

Whatever melts your butter.

You can weld in a small panel that can be purchased.

The paint you see in the photo is not original. The previous owner had the car painted in 1985 with a Glasurit acrylic enamel. The exhaust is a dual muffler at the back of the car (not twice pipes) and is a Monza or Targa exhaust tip if I remember. I could be wrong on the brand (came with the car). The bumper overriders were accessories and not standard. Those overriders are for looks, they would not add much crash safety, except maybe to keep you from bumping the tip of the hood. My ride is current an ugly patchwork of black primed rust repair patches. I'm too ashamed to show it.

When you take you seatbelt off watch your movements. I'll bet some of you (like me) are allowing the metal buckle to hit the chrome strip on the door when you're hanging the belt on the plastic hook, and that's why it's wearing off in the latter 1/3 of the strip. This chrome is not reparable with homemade fixes. It has to be professionally done. I looked into it on the Web by emailing a few chroming companies. If I think of it I'll dig up what I found out. It can be repaired for a reasonable sum.

I might be interested, but have a question. Won't ABS scratch really easy? I mean the console in a car takes a lot of beating compared to the other plastic interior components. You really need a hard firm plastic.

I posted this elsewhere too. I purchased one of those seat cover and foam kits from Distinctive Industries through Classic Datsun Motorsports. I believe that most everyone, who sells the Z seat covers, sell this one. Some people only replace their covers, but I also purchased the replacement foam cushions. I just finished putting the driver's seat cover on and it went very well, except I got a small rip in the vinyl in the rear part from working with the cover. It is covered by the rear flap though. Hopefully this won't get worse with use. I had to run the wire around the bottom from the old seat cover so that he prongs on the seat frame would not tear through the vinyl. To bad they didn't include new wire. It was very difficult to connect the two wire rods that make the crease in the top of the vinyl seat cover. What I ended up using were Blair pig rings from the hardware store to hook the two rods together. As far as the bottom support straps that were used on the 70-71 model Z's I found strapping material that was almost identical to the original. The only difference is that the original was one ply thicker and was covered with nylon on the outside. There are four straps front to back and one left to right (I used seat belt strap for this) just under where your arse sits. I pulled these through the original hooks and put two aluminum rivets with washers on each end. Of course this was done before they came out with the strap kit that's now for sale. REMEMBER IT WAS MY REINVENTION! I just removed the cover from the seat back and discovered something very noteworthy about the original headrest cushion. It is not the same foam as the seat back or bottom cushions, but is actually a crushable foam. It is also covered with a thin layer of plastic wrap; maybe to keep the foam dry from sweat? Not sure about this, since it is covered with vinyl. The wonderful quality of this crushable foam is that if you are hit from the rear and your head impacts this foam, it will crush and eliminate rebound of the head in the forward direction. The new headrest foam is not like this and is the same as the rest of the new foam. I may changed to the new foam headrest for comfort reasons anyway though. I thought I would mention that for anyone interested in crash safety. I also noticed that the new covers do not include the original style jute matting that is located just behind the seat back cover. You know those vent holes that are in the original covers; theoretically they allow air to circulate inside the seat to help keep your back cool. The original seat designers weren't so dumb were they? I wonder if I should go buy some jute matting and put some in. I'm also thinking about adding a small amount of additional foam in the lumbar area to improve support there. Has anyone else tried this; if so, how well did it work?

Have you checked with Les Cannaday?

Precious, hehehehhahah... it's okay, I understand completely.