twsutt

Nice find there, Mike. Let us know if everything lines up once you get them in. It's possible that an easy solution has been right under our noses this whole time.

Okay, let's try a little experiment. Place your pressure plate onto your flywheel, using the guide pins to line things up. now pull the pressure plate and rotate it 120 degrees in either direction and attempt to place it back on the pins - lining up the bolt holes. Does the pressure plate fit in three different orientations? or just in one?

Perfect240z, I've enjoyed reading your posts, but you've got to stop calling the intake manifold an exhaust manifold...it confuses me. I wish you the best of luck with your Z, Terence

I've got a 2+2/turbo (240mm) flywheel and the clutch and pressure plate to go with it. There are three guide pins on the flywheel, but they're not evenly spaced as one would imagine...there's only one orientation in which the pressure plate will fit. Isn't the 225mm flywheel/pressure plate produced in the same manner?

As far as the wiring goes, I'd use the existing fuel pump wires to trigger a relay and I'd run a new power line from battery to relay to fuel pump. I don't think that you need to replace the stock FPR at this moment, the current pressure regulator should do fine. *Anyone, please correct me if I'm wrong.*

As the brake pedal is depressed, it pushes a rod into the brake booster (toward the front of the car). The booster uses vacuum to provide a lighter pedal effort. On the engine side of the booster, the other end of the rod that is connected to the brake pedal presses into the Master Cylinder. This end of the rod is adjustable. *Watch out for the dreaded reaction disk.*

Has anyone read the owners manual for the 280z (I know it's in the '75) about starting the car after the engine has been running and the car has only sat for a short time? I was surprised to see that it instructed one to press the gas pedal all the way on to restart. I expect this is to flush out the injector/fuel rail.

Last night I spent over an hour removing my rear main seal. I don't mean pulling the trans and clutch, I mean just getting the seal out of the block. There has got be an easier way. The seal was dry and cracked and stuck fast to the engine. First, I had to break things free by placing a flat-head screwdriver against the seal every few millimeters and driving it hard with a rubber hammer until a "snap" is heard. Then I had to drill out a series of small holes around the seal through the interior metal "skeleton" of the seal and screw in a metal screw to pull like hell on. The pulling and tugging probably took about 40 minutes of grunting, sweating and cursing. Is it usual for the seal to be this difficult? Is there any other way without going at it from inside the engine?

hogie, Diseazed and ktm, Thank you for your replies. This helps immensely.

Okay, the FSM mentions using lithium grease on the rear main seal and gear oil on both transmission seals. But no mention in the FSM about using things like loctite or anti-sieze. Nor any mention on precleaning any coatings. I use the FSM as a guideline, but it's nice to know what others do that might differ from the FSM. In case you haven't noticed, the FSM is a fantastic guide to most maintenance on our cars, but it's far from being concise...sometimes it's good to have the voice of experience.

That's just wrong. I'm interested to hear what a orange skittle martini tastes like.

Okay, I've pulled the transmission and replaced the rear main seal, trans. input seal and trans. output seal - the whole interior of the bell housing was coated with a nasty mix of motor oil, gear oil and clutch dust. Now it's time to reassemble. Do you use loctite on the flywheel bolts? Red or Blue? Do you use anti-seize on the flywheel bolts? What about the pressure plate bolts? Is the flywheel or pressure plated coated with any kind of rust inhibitor? If so what is the best way of dealing with this? Should the pilot bearing be greased or oiled or dry? Sorry about all the questions, but I don't want to have to pull the transmission again anytime soon. Thank you,

There's also a silver Z in that picture - upper right corner...

"Turn on the car." For a car to be turned on it would have to have emotions. I know that I'm guilty of attributing a personality or soul to my Z, but in the end it's just unfeeling metal...not a living thing like Stephen King's Christine.

This gets my vote for quote of the year! It's all about context...in this case context goes back years. Years.

rustyZ - A man of few words. Strait to the point. I like that. Thanks.

Actually, the CS130D with two bottom mounting feet is what I've been looking at. I'll check out cgsheen & bjhines over on Hybridz.com and see how well the feet match up or need a shim or conversion bracket. I've read quite a bit about mounting the 10SI/12SI (thanks HizAndHerz) as well as the CS144 (thanks ktm) over on Hybridz. Thanks for the info.

Chop the top off and make it a convertible - no more sunroof worries.

I've seen the 10" booster before, what's that from...a 2+2 or a 280ZX perhaps?

"J mount" alternators are 2 footed alternators produced for many late model GMs and Chevrolets - I believe the feet are exactly 4" apart (someone please correct me if I'm wrong.) I've replaced the mechanical radiator fan with electric cooling fans and I usually drive with my headlights on for visibility (yes, both of these items are using relays so the current isn't having to flow through the stock harness.) Now that I no longer have overheating problems or dim headlights I am now experiencing battery drain problems due to the low output of the alternator at idle. When I drive my car to work it usually takes me about an hour to travel 22 miles to get home - most of that time is spent sitting. Last Friday, due to construction, it took me almost 1:45 to get home and once the engine was shut down (at my son's daycare) I was unable to restart the car due to a drained battery. Fortunately, my wife was home - less than a mile away. I don't need a high output 300 amp alternator, but I would like something that will put out at least around 50 amps at idle (100 - 140 amp max.) I also plan on converting to a internally regulated alternator. Mechanically all alternators are the same; rotor, stator, diode set, regulator. The housing is my current concern - what will fit.

Another option is to buy the '82-'83 MC and get the Brake Booster to go with it. I think that this method requires drilling a couple of new mounting holes in the firewall though.

I'm looking to upgrade my alternator and I don't have access to my Z at the moment. Is it the same distance as the "J Mount" alternators? Are the feet 80mm (3.15") or 100mm (3.95") apart? Thanks in advance,

Dave, I'm having problems getting a login for the NYZCC.org forums, can you give us some information about the SMD lights you've got? Are they side emitting or surface? Where did you get them? Thank you.

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Fortunately, I was able to remove my headlight assembly without tearing the headlight gaskets...the only casualties were the inch long mounting tabs that fit through the tiny holes in the headlight bucket to hold the gasket in place during assembly. I'll be reusing the old gaskets, however, if I had known about this prior to disassembly I would have ordered a set of gaskets. Excellent advise.